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#1 |
diyAudio Member
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I have spent a few days and a few bucks making my own anechoic chamber. It is not finished yet as I am still waiting for some 3" wedges.
This is the chamber from the outside: ![]() Down left you can see the cable inslet. I am planning another inlet on the right side of the door: ![]() It is made out of a 3" plastic pipe with a 90 degrees bend: ![]() Let's look inside: ![]() The door is off course at thick as the rest of the walls: ![]() This wire pullt the handle on the inside of the door: ![]() Just pull the wire and push the door: ![]() The door is fitted with 4" rock wool and 4" glass wool sound barrier plates as all the other walls. ![]() The lightening consist of 3 pcs 12V/20W halogene light bulbs hanging down thru the roof in rubber cables: ![]() The floor has been fitted with even 2" more damping: ![]() The floor is made with a 20"x6' removeable "corridor" in the middle: ![]() The door fills the opening with about 5-10mm tollerence. It will be fitted with rubber sealings to reduce the pressure on the door blade: ![]() The front edge og the door is angeled to not crash when opened: ![]() The frame is screwed to a cheap standard door: ![]() The frame around the door opening is angeled just like the door to fit perfectly: ![]() The mike stands straight on the sound barrier plates. It will be replaced with a lighter and smaller stand that will be fitted with an absorbing hoose: ![]() The ceeling is kept in place by a fence fitted in steel wires hanging from the original roof. The wires will also act as fastenig for the studio wedge panels. ![]() Here is the other end of the cable inlet. It will be filled with absorbent matherial in both ends to avoid noise from the outside: ![]() All the surfaces will be covered with studio wedge panels. In the roof and on the door blade I am planning to use this one: ![]() This is a 2" plate with very little reflection. The floor and all other surfaces will be fitted wit this one: ![]() It is a 3" "Z-foam"-model with very high grade of absorbtion and very little reflection. The panels will be organized with all the ribs crossing the direction of the measurement. The corners has as much as 2' thick damping. Right inside the door I will make a small rotating plattform for the speaker to be measured.
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#2 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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#3 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: hamilton,ontario
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very nice be sure to have a fire extinguisher neer by that foam burns fast. is the room vented?
http://edition.cnn.com/2003/US/North...ightclub.fire/
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#4 |
diyAudio Member
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That is scary. Fortunately the stuffing is fireproof, and is surrounded by concrete walls.
The room is not vented. Ironically it gets pretty cold in the winter when the door is closed.
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Live sounds better than HiFi. |
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#5 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saint Etienne
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Nice job but take care of your lungs, wear a mask.
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#6 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: London
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Just one point. You are using a cable loop on the door to close it, correct. How do you get out if the door latches? Who will hear you
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#7 |
diyAudio Member
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Haha, excellent point
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#8 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: The Wilds Of Canada
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Quote:
Use a mask!!! I hope you are doing so already. I've made my own anechoic chambers before. You see, I have these piles of PZA's lying about, and I arrange them 'just so'....
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"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan. Sometimes the claims aren't extraordinary. Sometimes the weakness of men's minds are the culprit. Mass mentality has nothing to do with obviousness or truths. |
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#9 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Praha
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IMO it cannot be anechoic chamber under say 200 Hz but as a small room improvement should work well.
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#10 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: USA, MN
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Quote:
Yep - it won't work well at wavelengths longer than twice the shortest dimension, but it will be better than measurements in a reflective room. I'd like to see some measurements results at different sample lengths.
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