Depends on what type of piano black. There's the matte
rubbed black finish that Steinway uses and the gloss black
that you find on other brands (I think you can get it on
Steinway as well).
For the gloss, I'd investigate the Crystalac water-based
finishes available from McFeely's. see:
http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=5.10
It requires spray equipment, though. I'm not sure how it would
do with hand application. Comes in gloss and satin.
The really glossy finishes on pianos from the far east usually
use a (poly)urethane catalyzed (UV set?) finish, not do-able
at home.
rubbed black finish that Steinway uses and the gloss black
that you find on other brands (I think you can get it on
Steinway as well).
For the gloss, I'd investigate the Crystalac water-based
finishes available from McFeely's. see:
http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=5.10
It requires spray equipment, though. I'm not sure how it would
do with hand application. Comes in gloss and satin.
The really glossy finishes on pianos from the far east usually
use a (poly)urethane catalyzed (UV set?) finish, not do-able
at home.
Automotive 2 stage Urethane basecoat/clearcoat finishes are like a mirror after wetsanding and buffing. I'm fortunate enough to have access to it (dad own's a body shop), but I realize that most don't.
I painted the tall tangband enclosure in the back with the 2-stage Urethane:
I painted the tall tangband enclosure in the back with the 2-stage Urethane:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
A high gloss finish is 90% prep work and elbow grease, and 10% the actual finish used. The finishing article on
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com
gives the basic steps to rubbing out a finish. This process could be used with Crystalac or another water-base finish. (follow the recipe for whatever finish you use, then proceed to rubbing out)
You do not want any solvent or catalyzed lacquer, as they are extremely toxic!
I have seen amazing results from a can of spray paint, but I think it is a lot of work. Getting a better finishing product would probably save some time.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com
gives the basic steps to rubbing out a finish. This process could be used with Crystalac or another water-base finish. (follow the recipe for whatever finish you use, then proceed to rubbing out)
You do not want any solvent or catalyzed lacquer, as they are extremely toxic!
I have seen amazing results from a can of spray paint, but I think it is a lot of work. Getting a better finishing product would probably save some time.
I've worked extensively with spray paint of many varieties. So far, I have not been able to achieve the same level of shine that an automotive lacquer or urethane can provide. Whatever finish material you use, you need to have one that's at least capable of being highly polished. For example, you can polish flat black all you want, but its properties simply won't allow you to get a mirror shine. Spray paint is the same way to a lesser degree. You can polish the hell out of it, but usually the best you'll get is a blurry reflection. Polished urethanes or lacquers will give you a mirror image.
The old analagy, "You can't polish a turd" couldn't possibly be any more appropriate for this situation.
The old analagy, "You can't polish a turd" couldn't possibly be any more appropriate for this situation.
Since no one else is coming right out and saying it, 'real' piano black finish generally means nitrocellulose lacquer. AFA as what as available in your local hardware store, deft lacquer is the only one I know of. Some stores may have behlens. Mcfaddens is well regarded if you can find it.
A more old school but authentic finish would be phenolic varnish like Behlens or McCloskey.
Anyway, like others have said, it's mostly a matter of a lot of work and sanding.
Quick summary of method:
Final sand
raise grain
sand again
seal with wash coat of shellac
fill grain with pore filler
sealer coat
about 10 coats color lacquer - dye with aniline black (lightly sand between coats)
about 5-10 coats clear
rubout wet with 320-1200 grit or better
power buff with polishing compound
glazing compound
wax
done
Lacquer works much better if sprayed. Varnish can be brushed.
A more old school but authentic finish would be phenolic varnish like Behlens or McCloskey.
Anyway, like others have said, it's mostly a matter of a lot of work and sanding.
Quick summary of method:
Final sand
raise grain
sand again
seal with wash coat of shellac
fill grain with pore filler
sealer coat
about 10 coats color lacquer - dye with aniline black (lightly sand between coats)
about 5-10 coats clear
rubout wet with 320-1200 grit or better
power buff with polishing compound
glazing compound
wax
done
Lacquer works much better if sprayed. Varnish can be brushed.
wow this is going to be alot of work but these speakers will be 6ft tall 2.5ft deep and 10" wide. They are going to be the main "attraction" in my home theater room.
EVentually I will build 4 more for front center, rear center and rear surrounds. I am also going to do a 15" powered subwoofer eventually when i find a suitable amp for it.
Thanks so much for your help.... off to build them soon!
Gordon
EVentually I will build 4 more for front center, rear center and rear surrounds. I am also going to do a 15" powered subwoofer eventually when i find a suitable amp for it.
Thanks so much for your help.... off to build them soon!
Gordon
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