Prelim Loudspeaker

bjackson · 21st February 2005, 10:16 PM

This would be my first DIY project, and basically I want to make a great sounding speaker for less than I can purchase an already finished one. I plan on spending around 500 dollars a pair for drivers alone. This is my inital idea, and I would appriciate any and all input on the quality of drivers, and design. I designed the enclosure using WinISD. I was originally against porting them, but then I noticed if I port near the FS, I get a much flatter response, is this indicative in real life?

Also I am considering going to a WMTMW design, instead of a MTMWW design that I have now.

Here is a little webpage I built about my idea (note the original 3d picture is to scale, and the small triangles next to the MTM are just for show and are not part of the volume of the enclosures.)

http://www.geocities.com/bryan1232/Proposal.html

Thanks!

RJ · 21st February 2005, 11:10 PM

A thing to know about FS.
If the speakers FS is below room resonance you will have a boomy bass.
I don't know if you have the Excel spreadsheet program, but if you do download ported.xls from here;
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prt/
This program helps you design speakers with room boundary bass gain or even a car.

Anyways, here are two sites with speakers you have in mind.
http://www.equinoxaudio.com.au/produ...3vsjupiter.php

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/superio...kblueheron.htm

I'm trying right now to get someone with TL experiance to model a tapered box like the BH2 usin 2 - 8" woofers.

Lionel · 21st February 2005, 11:24 PM

Just a question/suggestion...
Since you have a very strong bass section why don't you choose "real" midrange like the PL11WG09-08 for example ?

John Sheerin · 23rd February 2005, 03:30 AM

Ditch the narrow slot ports. Round works best. Flairing both ends as per the AES article by some of the guys at JBL is even better (it's not a simple radius).

21st February 2005, 10:16 PM	#1
bjackson diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Illinois	Prelim Loudspeaker This would be my first DIY project, and basically I want to make a great sounding speaker for less than I can purchase an already finished one. I plan on spending around 500 dollars a pair for drivers alone. This is my inital idea, and I would appriciate any and all input on the quality of drivers, and design. I designed the enclosure using WinISD. I was originally against porting them, but then I noticed if I port near the FS, I get a much flatter response, is this indicative in real life? Also I am considering going to a WMTMW design, instead of a MTMWW design that I have now. Here is a little webpage I built about my idea (note the original 3d picture is to scale, and the small triangles next to the MTM are just for show and are not part of the volume of the enclosures.) http://www.geocities.com/bryan1232/Proposal.html Thanks!

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21st February 2005, 11:10 PM	#2
RJ diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	A thing to know about FS. If the speakers FS is below room resonance you will have a boomy bass. I don't know if you have the Excel spreadsheet program, but if you do download ported.xls from here; http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prt/ This program helps you design speakers with room boundary bass gain or even a car. Anyways, here are two sites with speakers you have in mind. http://www.equinoxaudio.com.au/produ...3vsjupiter.php http://www.enjoythemusic.com/superio...kblueheron.htm I'm trying right now to get someone with TL experiance to model a tapered box like the BH2 usin 2 - 8" woofers.

21st February 2005, 11:24 PM	#3
Lionel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Saint Etienne	Just a question/suggestion... Since you have a very strong bass section why don't you choose "real" midrange like the PL11WG09-08 for example ?

23rd February 2005, 03:30 AM	#4
John Sheerin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Pittsburgh, PA	Ditch the narrow slot ports. Round works best. Flairing both ends as per the AES article by some of the guys at JBL is even better (it's not a simple radius).

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