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#1 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Perth
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I'm about to veneer a new 24L cabinet with an American timber veneer called Rock Maple. It is the figured type, crown cut.
Has anyone had experience with this veneer? Warnings/comments/suggestions are all most welcome. :-) I'll be giving the iron-on/dry PVA method another go. My first speaker used raw unbacked veneer, but this time I chose to try out paper backed veneer. Construction pictures will be on my website... the cabinet will be used for Troels Gravesen's TJL |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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When glueing, it does have a tendency to ripple. If you can get one, (or make one), a vacuum press would be very useful.
edit: Oops, I just re-read your post and saw you're going with iron-on. So ignore my above comments. Just try not to get any water/glue on the veneer, and do a test piece first.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#3 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Perth
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Hi pinkmouse,
Thank you very much for your reply. Does this mean that it tends to ripple when glueing via some regular method eg. using contact cement? I have read reports of bleed-through issues when using thin paper backed veneer with regular contact cement. Water based contact cement is a bit better. However I plan to use Pete Mazz's veneering guide. My veneer is not the pre-glued or iron-on type. It's just the regular paper-backed variety. |
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