Hoping someone can suggest a solution to my dilemma. I made driver cutouts for some TB 871s, and upon putting one driver in one of the holes, I found that the cotout was the right size, but the inner 'shelf' that the driver sits on and the screws actually bite into is too narrow, so that it doesnt completely cover where the screws will go.
In other words, if I look at the driver straight on, I see some mdf and some air through the screw holes. Surely this has happened to someone else before? Any suggestions on how I can mount these drivers without the screws (with aesthetics in mind) would be hugely appreciated.
In other words, if I look at the driver straight on, I see some mdf and some air through the screw holes. Surely this has happened to someone else before? Any suggestions on how I can mount these drivers without the screws (with aesthetics in mind) would be hugely appreciated.
Why dont you try this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=97122#post97122
And some filler to make it airtight.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=97122#post97122
And some filler to make it airtight.
thanks for the suggestions.. I am a little limited in what I can do as the box is already glued together and I have access to the interior only through the driver cutout, so as elegant as the knuts are, I don't think I will be able to install the interior screw for them. So far the blocks option looks most likely, I am going to have to think about it a little.
The blocks sound ok... but the choice of material is important, since your screw seems likely to go right through the glue joint...
so, I'd pre drill the hole before placing screws.
The other possibility is clamping the drivers, you still need to fill the holes but you can do that with something like "Mortite" window putty - a good non hardening (well not super hardening) material to make air tight gasket mounting of speakers....
If ur really industrious and have a good drill press and a circle cutter (fly cutter type) you could actually cut rings to fit into the hole, if you are careful... alternative (2) (better) is to make a cut out that fits with a little sanding into the holes you cut, glue that in and then redrill the cutout to the right size. (you get the new plug piece flush by laying it in screwed to a bit of flat stock... (a hockey puck screwed to a 2x4, in concept)
Plan(3) make a new baffle that sits on the old baffle, but has a taper or curve from the driver cutout back to the edge of the baffle (or an appropriate distance. You can completely cut out the hole area that now exists, assuming multiple drivers, so there is less or no cavity created behind the driver... etc...
Btw, non-flat baffles (curved or tapered) often have better looking freq response than do flat baffles with a sharp edge...
_-_-bear
PS rule #1 for mounting drivers - always do a test cut on scrap and see if it fits before cutting on the finished piece(s) !
so, I'd pre drill the hole before placing screws.
The other possibility is clamping the drivers, you still need to fill the holes but you can do that with something like "Mortite" window putty - a good non hardening (well not super hardening) material to make air tight gasket mounting of speakers....
If ur really industrious and have a good drill press and a circle cutter (fly cutter type) you could actually cut rings to fit into the hole, if you are careful... alternative (2) (better) is to make a cut out that fits with a little sanding into the holes you cut, glue that in and then redrill the cutout to the right size. (you get the new plug piece flush by laying it in screwed to a bit of flat stock... (a hockey puck screwed to a 2x4, in concept)
Plan(3) make a new baffle that sits on the old baffle, but has a taper or curve from the driver cutout back to the edge of the baffle (or an appropriate distance. You can completely cut out the hole area that now exists, assuming multiple drivers, so there is less or no cavity created behind the driver... etc...
Btw, non-flat baffles (curved or tapered) often have better looking freq response than do flat baffles with a sharp edge...
_-_-bear
PS rule #1 for mounting drivers - always do a test cut on scrap and see if it fits before cutting on the finished piece(s) !
Here's what I've done
Try to get back to the point you were at before you did the cut-out(!).
Yes, I'm talking about cutting a complimentary wooden plug, then glueing it back in there. All you'd have to do is measure the actual size of the rebate (diameter and depth) and the cutout. This is of course assuming that you have a regular circular cutout, as one would achieve when using a circle jig. It's not critical, but this would make for the neatest repair.
HTH
Try to get back to the point you were at before you did the cut-out(!).
Yes, I'm talking about cutting a complimentary wooden plug, then glueing it back in there. All you'd have to do is measure the actual size of the rebate (diameter and depth) and the cutout. This is of course assuming that you have a regular circular cutout, as one would achieve when using a circle jig. It's not critical, but this would make for the neatest repair.
HTH
Re: Here's what I've done
This looks like your best bet, although it's a pain in the @$!
Then again, lots of people like having double thick front baffles. Cut your existing hole just a little bit larger then glue on another baffle with the correct cut out for your driver. Try to get the two holes to match up and have a nice taper.
You want the back of the driver to be able to breathe and not have the baffle blocking.
Shaun said:
This looks like your best bet, although it's a pain in the @$!
Then again, lots of people like having double thick front baffles. Cut your existing hole just a little bit larger then glue on another baffle with the correct cut out for your driver. Try to get the two holes to match up and have a nice taper.
You want the back of the driver to be able to breathe and not have the baffle blocking.
You don't want a flanged plug...
just a round plug with a wee bit of MDF on top of the round piece to hold it parallel to the surface of the baffle, or if you want to get really fine about it, and make the MDF the same thickness as the baffle part that supports the basket, a flat bit of MDF with a spacer equal to the depth of the cutout for the basket... glue, recut the hole with ur circle jig.
Flanged plug is nice, but why do all the extra work when he has to cut the flange away anyhow??
Nice flanged plug, btw...
_-_-bear
just a round plug with a wee bit of MDF on top of the round piece to hold it parallel to the surface of the baffle, or if you want to get really fine about it, and make the MDF the same thickness as the baffle part that supports the basket, a flat bit of MDF with a spacer equal to the depth of the cutout for the basket... glue, recut the hole with ur circle jig.
Flanged plug is nice, but why do all the extra work when he has to cut the flange away anyhow??
Nice flanged plug, btw...
_-_-bear
Very nice Rabbitz. Not just a solution to a problem, but an interesting design consideration. I can imagine a walnut insert into a maple baffle would be striking.
Morbo, here's my suggestion:
Use a slot cutting router bit to cut half-circle spline slots at the screw points, then glue in crescent shaped biscuits. If you can't find a slot cutter quickly, you could also try a large radiused roundover bit set deeply enough to cut a semicircular rabbet on the inside of the driver cutout, with just enough lip on the inside shoulder of the cut to provide decent hold to augment the glue. (Hope that's clear)
Morbo, here's my suggestion:
Use a slot cutting router bit to cut half-circle spline slots at the screw points, then glue in crescent shaped biscuits. If you can't find a slot cutter quickly, you could also try a large radiused roundover bit set deeply enough to cut a semicircular rabbet on the inside of the driver cutout, with just enough lip on the inside shoulder of the cut to provide decent hold to augment the glue. (Hope that's clear)
Thanks, lots of great ideas here! Not sure what I'll try yet, I want to keep the extra woodworking to a minimum so I may just do the block thing with pilot holes for the screws, but I still have my homemade jig so I could probably cut a plug and start again.
x. onasis I like your idea a lot but the last thing I want to do right now is buy another router bit. I don't quite follow what you're suggesting if I don't have the bit though.. the largest roundover bit I have is 3/4" or 1/2" I think.
x. onasis I like your idea a lot but the last thing I want to do right now is buy another router bit. I don't quite follow what you're suggesting if I don't have the bit though.. the largest roundover bit I have is 3/4" or 1/2" I think.
Either of those would be fine.
Assuming 3/4 MDF and the "shoulder" part of the cove bit slightly less than 1/4":
What I'm suggesting is to set the widest part of the router bit a full 3/8 inch below the base of the router, then you could carefully cut a slot that would have a lip to catch the crescent biscuit.
This might provide more holding power than just the glued biscuit. Since the screw holes are right at the edge of the driver cutout, it may not be necessary.
Just be careful with this cut, it's asking for kickback. Clamping a stop for the router is absolutely necessary.
Assuming 3/4 MDF and the "shoulder" part of the cove bit slightly less than 1/4":
What I'm suggesting is to set the widest part of the router bit a full 3/8 inch below the base of the router, then you could carefully cut a slot that would have a lip to catch the crescent biscuit.
This might provide more holding power than just the glued biscuit. Since the screw holes are right at the edge of the driver cutout, it may not be necessary.
Just be careful with this cut, it's asking for kickback. Clamping a stop for the router is absolutely necessary.
morbo said:
I screw baffles up all the time. Sometimes I drop them and mash the corner, sometimes I screw up the countersink size, sometimes I put the roundovers on the inside corner and sometimes I run over them with the car. (heh, don't ask) If there's anything I've learned, it's that removable baffles are a great idea. This has the other benefit of being able to easily swap in other drivers for different designs.
A speaker with a fixed baffle can always be converted to removable by just running the entire box over a table saw and cutting it off, then making a new one. Socket head cap screws and T-nuts hold it in place.
The last 10 or so speakers I've done have had removable baffles.
Attachments
LOL @ running over the baffle. I won't ask If I had a table saw that would probably be the easiest solution, but I don't think I want to undertake that with my little handsaw.
BTW, what speaker is that in your picture in the nice rounded box? It looks like the Hi-Vi B4N? If so how is it? Of course I've read your reviews of the B3N and since the 4N is only a little bit more $$$ and has better Xmax it seemed appealing...
If I had a table saw that would probably be the easiest solution, but I don't think I want to undertake that with my little handsaw. BTW, what speaker is that in your picture in the nice rounded box? It looks like the Hi-Vi B4N? If so how is it? Of course I've read your reviews of the B3N and since the 4N is only a little bit more $$$ and has better Xmax it seemed appealing...
rabbitz said:
Sweet work!
Hope it sounds as good as it looks!
x. onasis said:
Another neat idea!
The biscuit bit is one way, yet another solution would be to
set up a Rabbet bit with a guide to cut a semi circle out of the baffle area even with the basket cut out depth - one for each screw and then glue in a circular plug you cut out of MDF or hardwood. Trim each circle to clear the basket. Now you have a place to go with the screws...
_-_-bear
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