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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
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I am looking to use some unshielded drivers (mid-basses & tweeters) in a cabinet that will end up as a center channel near monitor. Are there any lessons learned or recommendations to shield the cabinet for this application? Will lining the inside of cabinet with mu-metal or copper work? I welcome any experience on this subject.
Thanks, feke67 |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Perth, Australia.
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Hello feke67,
The commercial magnetically shielded drivers that I have seen have a simple 2mm thick iron cup shaped pressing glued over the the magnet assembly. Take a look in a typical modern television or modern 3in1 speakers. Some have an additional magnet glued to the back of the magnet assembly. Eric. |
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#3 | ||
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
Quote:
But feke, why not try it anyway if you have access to the right materials, and please post a follow up to the forum if it works.
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Perth, Australia.
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In my experience, good quality shielded drivers can sound even better.
Eric. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Canada
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Galvanised sheet metal 20-24gauge do a nice job ,try it between
you speaker box and tv screen before final fixing inside.
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Praudio |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: England
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ok, sheilding drivers hmm...
...there are two methods to sheilding drivers, the first of which is to use a bucking magnet and the second of which is sheilding. A bucking magnet is a magnet with the same shaped field as the driver only having its opposing pole facing the driver - this does not stop the magnet field it merely creates an area where the net field is zero by the two fields cancelling each other out. So-called mu-metals are metals that have a certain structure as to allow magnetic fields to permiate them easily - using mu-metal shields creates a path of short magnetic resistance so the magnetic field lines pass along the planes of the metal rather than through the air. I hope this helped? A-level physics does come in handy sometimes I guess! Also shielded magnets rarely sound better than a comparable unsheilded magnet as they consist of two interacting fields - this inherantly loses the exponential flux density of a single magnet. |
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#7 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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The little cans on the magnets of shielded speakers are there to act as a magnetic shunt over the magnet+the bucking magnet glued to it.
One can add a bucking magnet (or build a bi-pole with the two drivers magnet-to-magnet). This tends to lower the Qts because more of the field is concentrated in the gap. I don't know really how well mu-metal works in this situation (be easy enuff for me to do some experiments -- i have a whack of it for sale http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...=&postid=50348. It has been suggested that shielding the TV would be more effective than shielding the speaker. I'll do some experiments and get back. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mars
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I'm going to use the mu sheilding metal and line the chambers
for my design. Once I picked the drivers that I like there is no going back.. catch 22.... |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
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Planet10 & others! Thanks for the replies.
Please post findings after experiments. Thanks, feke67 |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: US - Kentucky
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How did the shielding project go? I think I'm in the same boat here, need to shield some speakers the didn't come that way.
__________________
First Audio... Then the darkness control knob on my toaster |
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