Hi I have a couple concerns about this design before i go ahead with it.
I have played wiht thsi driver before, and sold it to a customer who seemed pleased.
but now i want to build one hell of a system for my buddy.
If i wired them like this
SILVER FLUTE 8 inch sub:
PARRALELL THE WHOLE WAY THROUGH
HIVI TN 28:
PARRALELL THE WHOLE WAY THROUGH
and then wired the two banks togother in series.
1. would it sound good?
2. would the sensitivity of the tweeters be close enough to the woofers
3. what would the sensitivity be (if answerable)
4. what would the impeedence be (if answerable)
The specs on the silver flutes:
91 DB SENSITIVE
5 MM OF XMAX
8 OHMS
The specs on the HIVI TN28's
88 db sensitive
6 ohms
(if you see any problems wiht this design please let me know)
IM VERY OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS!!
I have played wiht thsi driver before, and sold it to a customer who seemed pleased.
but now i want to build one hell of a system for my buddy.
If i wired them like this
SILVER FLUTE 8 inch sub:
PARRALELL THE WHOLE WAY THROUGH
HIVI TN 28:
PARRALELL THE WHOLE WAY THROUGH
and then wired the two banks togother in series.
1. would it sound good?
2. would the sensitivity of the tweeters be close enough to the woofers
3. what would the sensitivity be (if answerable)
4. what would the impeedence be (if answerable)
The specs on the silver flutes:
91 DB SENSITIVE
5 MM OF XMAX
8 OHMS
The specs on the HIVI TN28's
88 db sensitive
6 ohms
(if you see any problems wiht this design please let me know)
IM VERY OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS!!
First off, if you parallel *all* the woofers, you will have a 1-ohm load, which will be really loud for about two seconds, and then your amp will fry.
8 drivers means you can get a 16-ohm or a 4-ohm final load; I'd go for 4-ohm. (4 drivers in parallel = 2 ohms; two of these in series = 4 ohms)
The same plan with the tweeters would net 3 ohms, which seems a bit unsafe... Maybe you could have a different number of tweeters and woofers?
Secondly, you do *NOT* want to just series or parallel the woofer / tweeter lines. You will want a true crossover between them; it will not sound good at all otherwise.
8 drivers means you can get a 16-ohm or a 4-ohm final load; I'd go for 4-ohm. (4 drivers in parallel = 2 ohms; two of these in series = 4 ohms)
The same plan with the tweeters would net 3 ohms, which seems a bit unsafe... Maybe you could have a different number of tweeters and woofers?
Secondly, you do *NOT* want to just series or parallel the woofer / tweeter lines. You will want a true crossover between them; it will not sound good at all otherwise.
Sounds like you want to build this;
http://www.swanspeaker.com/product/htm/view.asp?id=33
I've ran speakers & amp at 2 ohms. The amp does get hot.
There are some points along the frequency and impedence curves of the speaker where it'll drop below 2 ohms.
When I played Janet Jacksons Remix Album at some point in the song the amp would shut off to protect itself.
You could try it with the Silver Flutes. They might have better speaker parameters.
http://www.swanspeaker.com/product/htm/view.asp?id=33
I've ran speakers & amp at 2 ohms. The amp does get hot.
There are some points along the frequency and impedence curves of the speaker where it'll drop below 2 ohms.
When I played Janet Jacksons Remix Album at some point in the song the amp would shut off to protect itself.
You could try it with the Silver Flutes. They might have better speaker parameters.
You'll need Microsoft's Excel Spreadsheet program to run it;
http://www.pvconsultants.com/audio/boxmodel/unibox.htm
I just finished a 4th order bandpass speaker with this program using the Dayton 8" Classic woofer and the bandpass frequency response came out dead on, even the port length.
http://www.pvconsultants.com/audio/boxmodel/unibox.htm
I just finished a 4th order bandpass speaker with this program using the Dayton 8" Classic woofer and the bandpass frequency response came out dead on, even the port length.
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