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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 25th January 2005, 11:58 PM   #11
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Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

Oh heck, just look here: http://www.exoticaudio.org/index.html

:)ensen.
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Old 26th January 2005, 12:33 AM   #12
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Default AH HA!

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that is the one i want to base my design on!

i think i'll make 3 enclosures, 2 for speakers and 1 for the amp...

for the amp, i'll just replace the tweeter with volume control and the woofer with some kind of a VU meter...

but i'm going to simplify the design and just make if an 8 shape with a smaller top...egg shaped interior...


that is unless there are any other suggestions?
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Old 26th January 2005, 01:49 AM   #13
Stocker is offline Stocker  United States
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Here is a suggestion for you:

If you get "some" bass out of the 5" drivers... and you have a lot of them...

Isobarik. If you have enough, set up a pair of pairs per driver to get efficiency back, layout permitting. Tweeter on top, 'bass' units on bottom, like this, from the side

*
))
))

Is that understandable?

A jigsaw or router would be the ticket to get an enclosure size that is reasonable for bass extension in your speaker modelling program.

I love that one with the red suit, with driver for a face! Too much work though, eh?

As for your peers' knowledge / experience levels, blame
The public school system
The parents
The legislators
...all for the past 3 generations (at least)
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Old 26th January 2005, 02:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stocker
Here is a suggestion for you:

If you get "some" bass out of the 5" drivers... and you have a lot of them...

Isobarik. If you have enough, set up a pair of pairs per driver to get efficiency back, layout permitting. Tweeter on top, 'bass' units on bottom, like this, from the side

*
))
))

Is that understandable?

A jigsaw or router would be the ticket to get an enclosure size that is reasonable for bass extension in your speaker modelling program.

I love that one with the red suit, with driver for a face! Too much work though, eh?

As for your peers' knowledge / experience levels, blame
The public school system
The parents
The legislators
...all for the past 3 generations (at least)

meh, i'm just gonna go with one driver per speaker...i only have 2 on hand and if i ordered today i wouldn't get em in time...

check on the single driver website for a project using these drivers...aparantly it got ok bass for a 5 inch woofer...but it might be power hunry so that brings me to what type of (simple & cheap) amp to build....
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Old 26th January 2005, 02:46 AM   #15
Greg B is offline Greg B  United States
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The 55-1870 do have good bass for teeny little speakers. An added plus is that the wide bandwidth will allow a simple first order crossover that actually works. IE, try a 1mh choke and a 4uF cap on the tweeter.

They do well in very small boxes. So, in this case, there isn't much point to isobarik IMO.

GB
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Old 26th January 2005, 03:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Greg B
The 55-1870 do have good bass for teeny little speakers. An added plus is that the wide bandwidth will allow a simple first order crossover that actually works. IE, try a 1mh choke and a 4uF cap on the tweeter.

They do well in very small boxes. So, in this case, there isn't much point to isobarik IMO.

GB

silly me, i've never designed an xover...hehe...ummmm...can i just use caps from radio shack? or is there some special type that i need to get? i know that i can wind my own inductors, thats no problem...

do you think that the piezo tweeter will work well with the mcm woofer? or should i *sigh* get another tweeter for it? i'm just trying to use stuff that i have on hand...

should i go for sealed or ported enclosure?
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Old 26th January 2005, 03:19 AM   #17
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Default or maybe...

or maybe i could do some small t-lines with em? like the translam t-line in the full range reference thread...hmmmmmm....
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Old 26th January 2005, 03:47 AM   #18
Greg B is offline Greg B  United States
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Quote:
silly me, i've never designed an xover...hehe...ummmm...can i just use caps from radio shack? or is there some special type that i need to get? i know that i can wind my own inductors, thats no problem...
Lucky for you that you are using a driver that works well with a simple xover. Xover design is one of the most difficult challenges speaker building.

Anyway, I've used the driver before, and can assure you that a 1mH choke lowpass is fine. Do not use textbook values. It's bigger than you would think to compensate for baffle losses. I'm assuming you will make a low diffraction enclosure similar to that space snowman pic. Of course winding your own coils is fine.

Ideally, you should use film caps, at least mylar and preferably polypropylene, but nonpolar electrolytic from the shack will do in a pinch.

Which piezo do you have? It might not be my first choice, but it should work. The ones I made used the linaeum planar things ratshack used to sell. Ask again for crossover help when you have your parts decided on.

Yeah, actually it might do fine in a TL. Download the mathcad sheets at www.quarter-wave.com after reading through the site, and Dave's www.t-linespeakers.org too.
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Old 26th January 2005, 03:49 AM   #19
Greg B is offline Greg B  United States
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Quote:
should i go for sealed or ported enclosure?
Oh, ported. Try 8l tuned to 50hz, smallish port. Sounds stupid, but that's what I would do.

G
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Old 26th January 2005, 03:54 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by nerd of nerds

silly me, i've never designed an xover...hehe...ummmm...can i just use caps from radio shack? or is there some special type that i need to get? i know that i can wind my own inductors, thats no problem...
Your probably going to want polypropylene caps, which will be much larger than electrolytics and will cost more as well..

If you dont want to go for that, you will need bipolar electrolytics at the very least. You can do this simply with two electrolytics in series (I think its neg to neg, or pos to pos, maybe it doesnt matter).

If you go active crossover, you can use a LM4780 chip amp (if allowed?) or similar per enclosure. Then the components needed will be very small, nano and pico farads.
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