2 way speakers - 6.5" or 10" driver? - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10th January 2005, 06:23 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: UK
Default 2 way speakers - 6.5" or 10" driver?

Here is a quick question for everyone, is it possible to make a good quality 2 way speaker using a 10” driver instead of the ‘classic’ choice of a 6” / 6.5” driver with tweeter. Lots of people on the internet say it’s very difficult because a 10” driver gives poor sound dispersion and hence is very difficult to get a clear and wide stereo-image, compared to a 6.5” driver. Yet lots of 10” drivers have some impressive specs…….(lets forget problems such as the extra enclosure size that is necessary!!)

Anyone any opinions about using a 10” driver as apposed to the classic choice of 6.5”, has anyone had any success using a 10” driver in a two way design?
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2005, 06:46 PM   #2
Mr Evil is offline Mr Evil  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Behind you
I have made some 2-way speakers with very large woofers before. Dispersion is definitely something you need to consider, but depending on how you like your speakers to sound, it need not be a problem.

With narrower dispersion, you will hear more direct sound and less reflected sound. This tends to make the large woofers sound darker and less airy than smaller ones. This may be considered bad, but on the other hand it reduces the room's influence on the sound.

Nevertheless you still need to choose a lower than normal crossover point, which makes it hard to find a tweeter that will cover a wide enough bandwidth.
__________________
https://mrevil.asvachin.eu/
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2005, 06:50 PM   #3
SY is offline SY  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
SY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chicagoland
Blog Entries: 1
The problem is not the narrow dispersion per se; the problem is what happens in the crossover region as you transition from a driver with narrowing dispersion to the tweeter, which will (by virtue of its geometry) have wider dispersion. Get the on-axis response right and the reverberant energy will be wrong.
__________________
You might be screaming "No, no, no" and all they hear is "Who wants cake?" Let me tell you something: They all do. They all want cake.- Wilford Brimley
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2005, 07:39 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Tennessee
Send a message via AIM to bhg41088 Send a message via MSN to bhg41088 Send a message via Yahoo to bhg41088
What about a Horn tweeter?
__________________
-
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2005, 07:41 PM   #5
SY is offline SY  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
SY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chicagoland
Blog Entries: 1
Well, you'll want to pay close attention to what the dispersion is on your proposed baffle at crossover and at an octave above and below. I'm the wrong one to give advice here, though, since I dislike the sound of most horn tweeters.
__________________
You might be screaming "No, no, no" and all they hear is "Who wants cake?" Let me tell you something: They all do. They all want cake.- Wilford Brimley
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2005, 07:43 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
5th element's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: England
Quote:
Get the on-axis response right and the reverberant energy will be wrong.
Surely though, if the bass driver has off axis performance to keep up with the xover point specified then this wont be a problem?

You would only get a problem if the bass driver would go up to 1000hz off axis but up to 3000hz on and you xovered at 3000hz?
__________________
What the hell are you screamin' for? Every five minutes there's a bomb or somethin'! I'm leavin! bzzzz!
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2005, 07:44 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: UK
Mr Evil, SY, many thanks for the info, it’s made me think twice of going down the large driver rout, I think I may stick with the 6.5” option, for the time being anyway…thanks again!
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2005, 07:53 PM   #8
SY is offline SY  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
SY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chicagoland
Blog Entries: 1
jr, I think that's wise. It's a common commercial format and it's gotten to be so for a reason.

5th, the problem is geometry- no conventional 10" driver will have good off-axis response at frequencies where it's practical to cross over to a normal tweeter. Now, if you can use a tweeter that works well at 1kHz, you've got options. But the vast majority don't; 3K is about as low as you'd want to take most 1" domes.
__________________
You might be screaming "No, no, no" and all they hear is "Who wants cake?" Let me tell you something: They all do. They all want cake.- Wilford Brimley
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2005, 08:28 PM   #9
Kensai is offline Kensai  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: St. Louis
Send a message via AIM to Kensai
How would an OB configuration affect the problems with the larger woofer? I'm using 8" woofer in my small baffles and I dont' think I'm having any of these issues, but then again, it is still a pretty small driver (and I am considering finding some larger ones to try grabbing an extra .5 to 1 octave response at the bottom (I'm down 3db about 45hz and probably more like 12 at 35hz).

Also, for mating a tweeter, why not go planar, like a BG Neo 3 or 8 or a scavenged Monsoon satellite? They all have fairly narrow dispersion (except the PDR versions of the BG Neos, though that's mainly in the high freqs with dispersion widening as the frequency rises) and will go relatively low (the BG Neos are listed at PE down to 2khz, but BG's spec sheets show designs using them down into the 500-700hz range; Monsoon satellites from the last generation made go down into the low 200s before rolling off, which they do steeply, only presenting anything audible down to 180hz before just not responding at all in my testing, though I have fed them a fairly high level 20hz signal directly without damaging them in the slightest, so they could be run full with just a coil on your large woofer).

Just some thoughts . . .

Kensai
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2005, 08:59 PM   #10
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
diyAudio Chief Moderator
 
Salas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
Default Volt and B&C

I would use a Volt 10 inch along with a B&C DE65 in B&C ME10 horn. Then hook up a 2A3 Amp. Bliss.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
70cm tall, 3 way, diy speakers based on 10"/4"/1" japanese ken brown drivers. facundonu Multi-Way 34 9th March 2009 04:59 AM
12" "guitar" driver in Audio Speakers jwhit67 Multi-Way 4 11th February 2008 02:47 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:12 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2