Construction detail

Mats J · 8th January 2005, 05:23 AM

What is the best adhesive for bonding PVC (plumbing) to wood?

purplepeople · 8th January 2005, 08:42 AM

Interesting question... could you be more specific with how you are using the finished bond?

For example, do you want a liquid adhesive, double-sided tape, UV cured or instant bond? How strong does it have to be? Does it have to be flexible or withstand temperature extremes? Will a mechanical fastener (screws) be sufficient?

You can also try any one of 3M's online selector charts. In addition to Threadlocker, Loctite also has excellent adhesives for just about every other purpose.

You are in Seattle, if you are near Boeing surplus they may be able to help you.

:)ensen.

bushroot · 8th January 2005, 12:19 PM

I've always had very good luck with a nice slow setting 2-part epoxy.

Mats J · 8th January 2005, 11:23 PM

It would be PVC tubing connected to the rear of a dipole panel made of either MDF or plywood (haven't decided yet). Its to hold a rear firing tweeter. Basically, I'm making some cosmetic changes to John K.'s NaO. http://www.geocities.com/kreskovs/John1.html

purplepeople · 9th January 2005, 01:02 AM

So you are putting a PVC tube between the two tweeters... wouldn't that change the dipole effect of the design?

May I suggest that instead you use threaded rods instead of mounting screws for the tweeters. If the tweeter has 4 mounting holes, use 4 rods and 4 x 12mm PVC tubes. The tubes would be the length needed to space the two tweeters apart. Run the bolts/rods from the front tweeter, through the baffle, through the PVC tube through the rear baffle and through the rear tweeter. Tighten the whole thing with a nut on the back and voila... dipoles.

:)ensen.

454Casull · 9th January 2005, 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by purplepeople
So you are putting a PVC tube between the two tweeters... wouldn't that change the dipole effect of the design?

May I suggest that instead you use threaded rods instead of mounting screws for the tweeters. If the tweeter has 4 mounting holes, use 4 rods and 4 x 12mm PVC tubes. The tubes would be the length needed to space the two tweeters apart. Run the bolts/rods from the front tweeter, through the baffle, through the PVC tube through the rear baffle and through the rear tweeter. Tighten the whole thing with a nut on the back and voila... dipoles.

ensen.

Chances are he's using dome tweeters, which have sealed backs, so putting them together wouldn't be any different from suspending them some other way at the same separation distance.

wunhuanglo · 9th January 2005, 04:04 AM

Degloss the PVC first.

http://www.builderdepot.com/seo/SOVE...ADHESIVE.ihtml

Mats J · 9th January 2005, 03:23 PM

Quote:

So you are putting a PVC tube between the two tweeters... wouldn't that change the dipole effect of the design?

How?

Quote:

May I suggest that instead you use threaded rods instead of mounting screws for the tweeters. If the tweeter has 4 mounting holes, use 4 rods and 4 x 12mm PVC tubes. The tubes would be the length needed to space the two tweeters apart. Run the bolts/rods from the front tweeter, through the baffle, through the PVC tube through the rear baffle and through the rear tweeter. Tighten the whole thing with a nut on the back and voila... dipoles.

I just may do that, but I'm still going to have to attatch it to the panel somehow. Seems like routing a trough and using epoxy is my best bet.

purplepeople · 9th January 2005, 05:04 PM

If you bond to the baffle, then you can't replace if you burn them.

Yes, router a step in the baffle to flush mount the driver. Then it is typical to drill 4 pilot holes to screw the driver to the baffle. What I suggest is to drill holes as big as the driver mount holes and use ~6" bolts to connect the front and back tweeter. I will post a quick sketch tomorrow from my office.

:)ensen.

Mats J · 9th January 2005, 07:07 PM

I think we're having a communication problem here. The SEAS (front firing unit) is mounted normally. The back of the plywood panel would have a trough routed for the PVC for extra structural support, and then bonded to it. then the Vifa (rear firing tweeter) would be mounted "normally" on the other end of the PVC tubing via wood (or some such) plug. both units are removable. The bonding is at the one junction between the wood baffle (panel) and PVC tube.

8th January 2005, 05:23 AM	#1
Mats J diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle	Construction detail What is the best adhesive for bonding PVC (plumbing) to wood?

8th January 2005, 08:42 AM	#2
purplepeople diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: London, Ontario, Canada	Interesting question... could you be more specific with how you are using the finished bond? For example, do you want a liquid adhesive, double-sided tape, UV cured or instant bond? How strong does it have to be? Does it have to be flexible or withstand temperature extremes? Will a mechanical fastener (screws) be sufficient? You can also try any one of 3M's online selector charts. In addition to Threadlocker, Loctite also has excellent adhesives for just about every other purpose. You are in Seattle, if you are near Boeing surplus they may be able to help you. :)ensen. __________________ Those who claim to be making history are often the same ones repeating it.

9th January 2005, 01:02 AM	#5
purplepeople diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: London, Ontario, Canada	So you are putting a PVC tube between the two tweeters... wouldn't that change the dipole effect of the design? May I suggest that instead you use threaded rods instead of mounting screws for the tweeters. If the tweeter has 4 mounting holes, use 4 rods and 4 x 12mm PVC tubes. The tubes would be the length needed to space the two tweeters apart. Run the bolts/rods from the front tweeter, through the baffle, through the PVC tube through the rear baffle and through the rear tweeter. Tighten the whole thing with a nut on the back and voila... dipoles. :)ensen. __________________ Those who claim to be making history are often the same ones repeating it.

9th January 2005, 04:04 AM	#7
wunhuanglo diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: New Orleans, LA	PL200 Construction Adhesive Degloss the PVC first. http://www.builderdepot.com/seo/SOVE...ADHESIVE.ihtml

9th January 2005, 05:04 PM	#9
purplepeople diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: London, Ontario, Canada	If you bond to the baffle, then you can't replace if you burn them. Yes, router a step in the baffle to flush mount the driver. Then it is typical to drill 4 pilot holes to screw the driver to the baffle. What I suggest is to drill holes as big as the driver mount holes and use ~6" bolts to connect the front and back tweeter. I will post a quick sketch tomorrow from my office. :)ensen. __________________ Those who claim to be making history are often the same ones repeating it.


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8th January 2005, 12:19 PM	#3
bushroot diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: The high-five state	I've always had very good luck with a nice slow setting 2-part epoxy.

8th January 2005, 11:23 PM	#4
Mats J diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle	It would be PVC tubing connected to the rear of a dipole panel made of either MDF or plywood (haven't decided yet). Its to hold a rear firing tweeter. Basically, I'm making some cosmetic changes to John K.'s NaO. http://www.geocities.com/kreskovs/John1.html

9th January 2005, 07:07 PM	#10
Mats J diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle	I think we're having a communication problem here. The SEAS (front firing unit) is mounted normally. The back of the plywood panel would have a trough routed for the PVC for extra structural support, and then bonded to it. then the Vifa (rear firing tweeter) would be mounted "normally" on the other end of the PVC tubing via wood (or some such) plug. both units are removable. The bonding is at the one junction between the wood baffle (panel) and PVC tube.

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