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#1 |
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Banned
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I have a feeling this may be detrimental to certain sealed box parameters.... lol
any suggestions on fixing it?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: 12km off the alaska highway in northern BC
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Nothing that a little duct tape couldn't fix.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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You're mispronouncing it: It's a "mod."
lol Dave
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I have a small website for my projects. |
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#4 |
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Banned
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speaker, meet foot, foot meet speaker..
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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AFAIK, there's nothing you can do that will restore the speaker to "sealed" status without also changing the frequency response, TS params, breakup modes, etc.
If it's possible to get a replacement driver, this is the ideal solution. Failing that... try a lightweight paper stuck on with contact cement. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Your picture is a little too dark, makes the tear seem worse than it is. A little work with XnView freeware, www.xnview.com, to lighten it up and we see that it simply looks like a flap that can be glued on in place. I don't know if this stuff is available in Australia, but it sure is worth looking for. PC-7 and PC-11. Best epoxy you can use-a bit expensive, but a million uses and you will be happy you bought it. Use it sparingly to join the two edges of the flap all around, make sure it is sealed but don't pile it on. Your speaker will be returned to very near the Thiele-Small parameters and response of a brand new cone. PC-7 or PC-11. PC-11 is more expensive, but often sold in marine supply houses-it is just as rock-tough as PC-7, but can be used underwater. I suggest you pay the extra money for PC-11 only if PC-7 is not available at your local hardware stores.
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"A friend will help you move. A really good friend will help you move a body." -Anonymous |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: L.A., CA
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It's not a flaw....it's a feature.
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If it sounds good... it is good! |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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looks like an excuse for a new project.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Racine, Wisconsin
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I use mylar for repairs on gelcoat & fiberglass. Before everybody gets all huffy, it's only used as a sort of barrier for the epoxy or resin. It peals right off after the material has hardened. You can find it at sign shops in their garbage cans. It has one side that's very shiney and won't stick to anything.
My guess would be that you can sandwich the tear between two pieces after the epoxy is applied. This will alow you to massage and work it into the torn fibers... ever so gently. The mylar will nearly fall off after the material is hardened. I use a little masking tape to hold the mylar in place. |
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#10 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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If I remember correctly, Mylar(TM) is Duponts name for "A sheet of polyester" often sold coated with an oxide.
Does the polyester resin in fiberglass not affect the sheet polyester? I would have thought it might reactivate it. I sure like the method you have, quite ingenious. Me? I just use some watered down yellow (carpenters) glue, smear it on with my fingers and lick off the excess. ![]() Time for a couple new drivers SkinnyBoy? Cal |
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