Hi Guys
I recently posted a thread stating I'm a complete newbie in dire need of some guidance. Basically my situation is this will be my first ever diy speaker set and I was after a plan that would sound very good according to you guys (as obviously I won't be able to test them before purchasing)
My main usage for these speakers will be tv/dvd/xbox but also the ability to play some nice sounding music (mainly rock/accoustic material)
In that thread krutke's designs were brought to my attention. Now I have very little understanding of whats out there but John's page seems to have very detailed guides which is steering me that direction but as I mention in all of my posts please jump in if you think there are better options out there. (I still havn't even decided between the seas L18 mt or Vifa XG18 mtm designs)
Now to the main part of my question. Of all the DIY plans I've found they seem to detail the main speakers very nicely however I'm gathering for home theatre usage I'm going to need atleast 5.1? I guess I'm hoping to hear from any of you guys if these designs are easily transferred into a home theatre setup and if so are there plans out there for a nice matching sub, centre channel and surrounds. I have read its advisable to use matching drivers but thats where my knowledge ends. It would actually be great to hear from John as I did read in one of his posts that he uses the xg18 mtm in his home theatre room so I'm presuming he has the other speakers designed to go with them.
I'm also havn't worked out if a floor standing or stand mounted setup is the way to go so advice there would also be appreciated.
The next part of my question, Is I'm based in Sydney Australia and I can't seem to source the drivers needed for either of these projects so may have to import. If anyone has recommended places to import from with cheap reliable shipping as well as good prices on the driver that would be greatly appreciated.
Once again if anyone has any suggestions on alternate kits that may suit my needs better please feel free to let me know.
Thanks in advance
Regards Dave
I recently posted a thread stating I'm a complete newbie in dire need of some guidance. Basically my situation is this will be my first ever diy speaker set and I was after a plan that would sound very good according to you guys (as obviously I won't be able to test them before purchasing)
My main usage for these speakers will be tv/dvd/xbox but also the ability to play some nice sounding music (mainly rock/accoustic material)
In that thread krutke's designs were brought to my attention. Now I have very little understanding of whats out there but John's page seems to have very detailed guides which is steering me that direction but as I mention in all of my posts please jump in if you think there are better options out there. (I still havn't even decided between the seas L18 mt or Vifa XG18 mtm designs)
Now to the main part of my question. Of all the DIY plans I've found they seem to detail the main speakers very nicely however I'm gathering for home theatre usage I'm going to need atleast 5.1? I guess I'm hoping to hear from any of you guys if these designs are easily transferred into a home theatre setup and if so are there plans out there for a nice matching sub, centre channel and surrounds. I have read its advisable to use matching drivers but thats where my knowledge ends. It would actually be great to hear from John as I did read in one of his posts that he uses the xg18 mtm in his home theatre room so I'm presuming he has the other speakers designed to go with them.
I'm also havn't worked out if a floor standing or stand mounted setup is the way to go so advice there would also be appreciated.
The next part of my question, Is I'm based in Sydney Australia and I can't seem to source the drivers needed for either of these projects so may have to import. If anyone has recommended places to import from with cheap reliable shipping as well as good prices on the driver that would be greatly appreciated.
Once again if anyone has any suggestions on alternate kits that may suit my needs better please feel free to let me know.
Thanks in advance
Regards Dave
John Krutke's designs have a reputation for being excellent. Because they use metal cone drivers they'll likely have the detail you're looking for in a home theatre rig (while also being suitable for music because John dislikes an overly bright sound).
All you need for HT to do is build five identical speakers and a subwoofer. As long as you have the vertical space above or below your TV, you can use a standard bookshelf midrange/tweeter speaker for the center channel, rather than a horizontal MTM. The standard MT design will have better off-axis performance anyway without the lobing problems of most MTMs, and John is careful to engineer a good off-axis response.
If you have specific questions, try sending him an email or posting something on the Madisound forum, where he usually hangs out.
All you need for HT to do is build five identical speakers and a subwoofer. As long as you have the vertical space above or below your TV, you can use a standard bookshelf midrange/tweeter speaker for the center channel, rather than a horizontal MTM. The standard MT design will have better off-axis performance anyway without the lobing problems of most MTMs, and John is careful to engineer a good off-axis response.
If you have specific questions, try sending him an email or posting something on the Madisound forum, where he usually hangs out.
thanks wodgy
By metal cones drivers are you talking about his seas L18mt setup? I was actually leaning towards if anything the XG18 mtm only because thats what I noticed john used in his home theatre room. But if you think the L18mt would be better than I'm all for it.
Ahh ok I'm a little confused on the building identical speaker side. I always thought the rears would be smaller but your saying I would have the full sized ones at the rear as well? What happens if I build the floor standing fronts does that mean I need them in the back as well? Pictures of rears like this is what has thrown me out thinking they need some complex design http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/index.php?page=baseline&kitid=D4
Centre Wise I would be putting it ontop of my tv so was hoping I could find plans for one of those long rectangle designs like this for example http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/index.php?page=deluxe&kitid=C6 that sits ontop of the telly however once again this may not be feasible. Shielding was my other concern though.
Subwise can I pretty much just choose any sub design build it and stick it in the corner or do I specifically need to find one that matches in with the rest of the speakers?
I appreciate your advice so far and I will make a post in the maddisound forums now I'm hesitant to email him as I remember him saying he doesn't provide speaker 101 support
By metal cones drivers are you talking about his seas L18mt setup? I was actually leaning towards if anything the XG18 mtm only because thats what I noticed john used in his home theatre room. But if you think the L18mt would be better than I'm all for it.
Ahh ok I'm a little confused on the building identical speaker side. I always thought the rears would be smaller but your saying I would have the full sized ones at the rear as well? What happens if I build the floor standing fronts does that mean I need them in the back as well? Pictures of rears like this is what has thrown me out thinking they need some complex design http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/index.php?page=baseline&kitid=D4
Centre Wise I would be putting it ontop of my tv so was hoping I could find plans for one of those long rectangle designs like this for example http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/index.php?page=deluxe&kitid=C6 that sits ontop of the telly however once again this may not be feasible. Shielding was my other concern though.
Subwise can I pretty much just choose any sub design build it and stick it in the corner or do I specifically need to find one that matches in with the rest of the speakers?
I appreciate your advice so far and I will make a post in the maddisound forums now I'm hesitant to email him as I remember him saying he doesn't provide speaker 101 support
dcourtney said:
All just add my 2 cents worth...
I the age of digital surround each channel recieves full bandwith. So it would be best to use the same design for each speaker (5,6 or 7 depending on the receiver/decoder used), that being "full-range" speakers(be that 1, 2 or more drivers).
Problems can arise do to the fact that the tv or plasma or projection system, etc (monitor). makes placement of the center channel difficult, the difficulty being the center channel should be placed where the monitor resides. The most utilized option is an MTM configuration placed on it's side above or below the monitor. This setup has many disadvantages. MTM, or D'Appolito configuration was designed to improve horizotal imaging (for lack of a better way of describing it). Now the afore mentioned configuration placed on it's side is going to sound different depending on where your sitting (from left to right) and only decent head-on.
Better to do what was mentioned above... using a two driver (tweeter-woofer) bookcase style enclosure. It won't have the same WAF but will sound better throughout your listening/veiwing area.
Another option used is to place a tweeter above a midrange flanked by two woofers. Here is a link that has such a center channelAudax home theater kits
There are probably more options available too you than you wish. If possible use the same speakers throughout your HT setup. If not try to use designs that use the same divers at least (so to match the timbre of each). Imagine if you will a setup that has different speakers using different drivers. The mains are one design, the rears another and the center different. During a movie something pans from left to right (say a plane or spaceship) it could sound very different as it works it's way from spkr to spkr to spker (the center sounding different from the mains).
Full range towers is a good idea for the mains. Smaller surrounds works fine and as previously mentioned using identical drivers is best so the voicing is different. Not much of the sonic material goes to the surround channels and almost all of the HT receivers have a "small or big" setting for the different speakers. "small" means the bass covered by the sub doesn't go to that speaker, so smaller sealed surround speakers is fine.
Center channels can be more trouble than they're worth. 1st it is recommended that they be no more than 1 foot different in elevation than your mains. If it's going very close to a CRT TV, then magnetic sheilding is required. Also, as previously mentioned, MTM's don't perform well on their sides. Try going without a center channel first, you can always build one later. Most receivers can be set so no center channel exists and the sound is distributed between the mains. As long as the mains aren't too far from the video screen, the dialogue images right where it should, so don't consider a center channel speaker mandatory. Try it without first.
Center channels can be more trouble than they're worth. 1st it is recommended that they be no more than 1 foot different in elevation than your mains. If it's going very close to a CRT TV, then magnetic sheilding is required. Also, as previously mentioned, MTM's don't perform well on their sides. Try going without a center channel first, you can always build one later. Most receivers can be set so no center channel exists and the sound is distributed between the mains. As long as the mains aren't too far from the video screen, the dialogue images right where it should, so don't consider a center channel speaker mandatory. Try it without first.
You may have noticed that John Krutke has two designs using the Seas metal cone drivers - one using the L18 (I am building a pair of these myself), which are perfect for L and R main speakers, and a smaller design using the L15, which would be suitable for center channel and surrounds. John is well known for designing speakers which are voiced with remarkable consistency, and these two speaker designs should match exceptionally well.
Personally, I find that a good two-way stand mounted speaker provides enough low end to satisfy me even when watching movies with lots of LF effects. I would only be concerned if I were listening in a very large living room, in which case, adding a subwoofer would be more than adequate to round out the bottom octave. As a previous poster suggested, large tower main speakers would do well in place of a separate subwoofer. Finally, I'd also second the advice against using an MTM center channel... these do exhibit severe lobing problems. MTM is meant to stand vertically, not horizontally, and I honestly don't understand why it's so popular for commercial center channels.
Personally, I find that a good two-way stand mounted speaker provides enough low end to satisfy me even when watching movies with lots of LF effects. I would only be concerned if I were listening in a very large living room, in which case, adding a subwoofer would be more than adequate to round out the bottom octave. As a previous poster suggested, large tower main speakers would do well in place of a separate subwoofer. Finally, I'd also second the advice against using an MTM center channel... these do exhibit severe lobing problems. MTM is meant to stand vertically, not horizontally, and I honestly don't understand why it's so popular for commercial center channels.
I also agree with JohninCR that a center channel isn't manditory.
I was at my parents house a while back and wnated to watch a movie on there new HUGE widescreen HDTV. They were out of town and I was stopping in from time to time to water plants, etc. so i had the run of the place. First of all I was a little miffed because my stepdad had purchased a krappy center channel speaker (probably off eBay). Miffed because I made all the other speakers, save the sub.
There originally was no center channel due to the fact that i felt it unnessecary for their HT set-up (the mains aren't that far apart). I spent quite some time tweaking the receivers settings to match the volume of the center to the mains (ok it just seemed like a long time - remember i just wanted to watch a movie).
Anywoo... The center channel was terrible. Dialog was at times difficult to understand, and tinny sounding (due probably to the same sealed enclosure). Krappy centers can make movie viewing a PITA because so much information goes to the center channel (think about it most the time people in movies talking aren't moving back and forth across the screen as they do so). After about a half an hour I switched the receivers center channel out put to "phantom". Ahh... much better the dialog was clean and discernable. Back to the way it was before.
Too make a long story short (too late) try it with out a center channel first. You'll save some cash and time. If you feel you just gotta have a center - you can, i won't stop you.
Good luck and Happy New Year (unless you use a different calendar that i do)
Oh ya - that afore mentioned center was one of those MTM style Horizantal jobbies
I was at my parents house a while back and wnated to watch a movie on there new HUGE widescreen HDTV. They were out of town and I was stopping in from time to time to water plants, etc. so i had the run of the place. First of all I was a little miffed because my stepdad had purchased a krappy center channel speaker (probably off eBay). Miffed because I made all the other speakers, save the sub.
There originally was no center channel due to the fact that i felt it unnessecary for their HT set-up (the mains aren't that far apart). I spent quite some time tweaking the receivers settings to match the volume of the center to the mains (ok it just seemed like a long time - remember i just wanted to watch a movie).
Anywoo... The center channel was terrible. Dialog was at times difficult to understand, and tinny sounding (due probably to the same sealed enclosure). Krappy centers can make movie viewing a PITA because so much information goes to the center channel (think about it most the time people in movies talking aren't moving back and forth across the screen as they do so). After about a half an hour I switched the receivers center channel out put to "phantom". Ahh... much better the dialog was clean and discernable. Back to the way it was before.
Too make a long story short (too late) try it with out a center channel first. You'll save some cash and time. If you feel you just gotta have a center - you can, i won't stop you.
Good luck and Happy New Year (unless you use a different calendar that i do
)Oh ya - that afore mentioned center was one of those MTM style Horizantal jobbies
i just remembered to offending center's brandname and found there hideous website.link to the hideous speaker
Just thought of something else...
You may want to take a look at Dennis Murphy's MBOW1 speaker design. It's a 2-way design, but Dennis recently announced a 3-way tower version which basically just adds a big woofer to the existing 2-way design. The two versions should sound almost exactly the same. Thus, you could use the 3-way version for your front main speakers, and the 2-way for surrounds.
I also agree with the consensus in this thread regarding center channel speakers - good center channels are hard to position properly around a video screen, since they're supposed to be at the same height as the main speakers. Add in the problems of MTM arrangements, and there are very few ways to build a short speaker to fit above or below your screen, so you may as well just go with a pair of main speakers and omit the CC entirely. The results will likely be better, and the $ you save can go into the rest of the system.
You may want to take a look at Dennis Murphy's MBOW1 speaker design. It's a 2-way design, but Dennis recently announced a 3-way tower version which basically just adds a big woofer to the existing 2-way design. The two versions should sound almost exactly the same. Thus, you could use the 3-way version for your front main speakers, and the 2-way for surrounds.
I also agree with the consensus in this thread regarding center channel speakers - good center channels are hard to position properly around a video screen, since they're supposed to be at the same height as the main speakers. Add in the problems of MTM arrangements, and there are very few ways to build a short speaker to fit above or below your screen, so you may as well just go with a pair of main speakers and omit the CC entirely. The results will likely be better, and the $ you save can go into the rest of the system.
Disabled Account
Joined 2003
I had totally forgotten that you can use the shielded M130-SH midwoofer in the MBOW1-
in http://murphyblaster.com/content.php?f=MBOW1.html
Dennis says that "M130 comes in both shielded and unshielded version, they measure very similarly, and the choice is yours."
So you can buy the shielded version of the midwoofer to use in the MBOW1 and MBOW1 3-way, without crossover modifications.
If you choose 5 or 7 x MBOW1, you will require a subwoofer for HT(5.1, 7.1), but if you decide to build the 3 way for L/R, you can get away without using a sub. In my mind there's no doubt that a 10" woofer per side will sound more cohesive than a MBOW1 + single separate subwoofer sitting somewhere in the corner of the room.
The M130 and OW1 is unavailable in Australia, but easily shipped from GR Research and Hiquphon respectively for a nominal fee.
The big 10" Peerless (CSX 850146) woofer in the MBOW 1 3way is available in Sydney/Australia from WES Components.
By all accounts these speakers are excellent. Don't let the price of that M130 fool you, this unit performs far beyond what the price would suggest. Objective measurements by Mark K and subjectcive evaluations from the handful of Madisound forum members who have built the 2 and 3 way confirm this. There's plenty of listening opinions and construction tips and inspiration awaiting you...
I did a careful cost analysis when looking for a 3-way to build after my 2-way ProAc Response 2.5 clone. I finally decided on the NaO (AEP-CW), but the MBOW1-3way was one on my list.
Dave- after factoring in shipping to Australia, the each M130 costs about AU$60, OW1 AU$140, and 850146 A$140 (WES AU$RRP)
edit: bit of a pedantic about grammar/spelling, but hopefully that's the last edit.
edit 2: that's shipping prices based on pair (stereo). Will vary if you order more. Contact GR/Hiquphon for info. I order SCR caps and non-inductor resistors from WES, and inductors from Equinos Audio, but you may consider ordering crossover parts from GR Research, since they're light compared to drivers and come along for the ride.
in http://murphyblaster.com/content.php?f=MBOW1.html
Dennis says that "M130 comes in both shielded and unshielded version, they measure very similarly, and the choice is yours."
So you can buy the shielded version of the midwoofer to use in the MBOW1 and MBOW1 3-way, without crossover modifications.
If you choose 5 or 7 x MBOW1, you will require a subwoofer for HT(5.1, 7.1), but if you decide to build the 3 way for L/R, you can get away without using a sub. In my mind there's no doubt that a 10" woofer per side will sound more cohesive than a MBOW1 + single separate subwoofer sitting somewhere in the corner of the room.
The M130 and OW1 is unavailable in Australia, but easily shipped from GR Research and Hiquphon respectively for a nominal fee.
The big 10" Peerless (CSX 850146) woofer in the MBOW 1 3way is available in Sydney/Australia from WES Components.
By all accounts these speakers are excellent. Don't let the price of that M130 fool you, this unit performs far beyond what the price would suggest. Objective measurements by Mark K and subjectcive evaluations from the handful of Madisound forum members who have built the 2 and 3 way confirm this. There's plenty of listening opinions and construction tips and inspiration awaiting you...
I did a careful cost analysis when looking for a 3-way to build after my 2-way ProAc Response 2.5 clone. I finally decided on the NaO (AEP-CW), but the MBOW1-3way was one on my list.
Dave- after factoring in shipping to Australia, the each M130 costs about AU$60, OW1 AU$140, and 850146 A$140 (WES AU$RRP)
edit: bit of a pedantic about grammar/spelling, but hopefully that's the last edit.
edit 2: that's shipping prices based on pair (stereo). Will vary if you order more. Contact GR/Hiquphon for info. I order SCR caps and non-inductor resistors from WES, and inductors from Equinos Audio, but you may consider ordering crossover parts from GR Research, since they're light compared to drivers and come along for the ride.
First Off Happy New Year to everyone!
Thankyou all very much for your replies I'm certainly learning a lot from all of you and I've definately written off the centre mtm now
At your advise I also took the thread to madisound where john hangs out and I was actually put onto the dennis murphy mbow1
exactly like hifizen has just done here which I can only take is a good sign.
If you don't mind I'm going to paste in my questions from madisound just to get a few more of you knowledgable guys opinions
"I've been doing a heck of a lot of reading about the mbow1 and it as well seems like a decent setup. My only concerns from my readings is sometimes lack of bass and not being able to really "crank" them up reports worries me if I'm using them for rock style music. Obviously this may make a sub a necessity especially for HT usage but just wanted to make sure they aren't going to be too weak for my needs.
A couple of more quick questions now if you dont mind. Is the CAOW1 worth considering? It seems to be an upgrade on the MBOW1 but I can't tell if theres a shielded version.
There's also a 3way version of the mbow1 which to my untrained eye appears to be in simple terms mbow1's sitting on top of 10inch subs. Would normal mbow1's with a single sub do the job just as well?
With the mbow1's shielded version (which I presume I would only use for the centre) would that use exactly the same crossover?
Would you guys recommend I use mbow1's (or caow1's for that matter) for all 5 speakers or would you substitute a cheaper option like the mb20 for surrounds? (I'm worried about a change in drivers here defeating the whole purpose)
slightly off topic would this be the kind of amp I would be looking at for one of those adire subs? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5738204298
thanks again and look forward to your reply.
edit looks like we posted at the same time mate thankyou for working out the prices for me much appreciated. It looks like we could be onto a winner here just waiting to get those couple of questions clarified and we could be good to go
oops another quick edit, I got all excited after reading those final prices but crossovers isn't included there is it? Would I be best off importing them as well or buying locally? Will they add much to the price and how on earth did you calculate the shipping so easily?
Thankyou all very much for your replies I'm certainly learning a lot from all of you and I've definately written off the centre mtm now
At your advise I also took the thread to madisound where john hangs out and I was actually put onto the dennis murphy mbow1
exactly like hifizen has just done here which I can only take is a good sign.
If you don't mind I'm going to paste in my questions from madisound just to get a few more of you knowledgable guys opinions
"I've been doing a heck of a lot of reading about the mbow1 and it as well seems like a decent setup. My only concerns from my readings is sometimes lack of bass and not being able to really "crank" them up reports worries me if I'm using them for rock style music. Obviously this may make a sub a necessity especially for HT usage but just wanted to make sure they aren't going to be too weak for my needs.
A couple of more quick questions now if you dont mind. Is the CAOW1 worth considering? It seems to be an upgrade on the MBOW1 but I can't tell if theres a shielded version.
There's also a 3way version of the mbow1 which to my untrained eye appears to be in simple terms mbow1's sitting on top of 10inch subs. Would normal mbow1's with a single sub do the job just as well?
With the mbow1's shielded version (which I presume I would only use for the centre) would that use exactly the same crossover?
Would you guys recommend I use mbow1's (or caow1's for that matter) for all 5 speakers or would you substitute a cheaper option like the mb20 for surrounds? (I'm worried about a change in drivers here defeating the whole purpose)
slightly off topic would this be the kind of amp I would be looking at for one of those adire subs? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5738204298
thanks again and look forward to your reply.
edit looks like we posted at the same time mate
thankyou for working out the prices for me much appreciated. It looks like we could be onto a winner here just waiting to get those couple of questions clarified and we could be good to gooops another quick edit, I got all excited after reading those final prices but crossovers isn't included there is it? Would I be best off importing them as well or buying locally? Will they add much to the price and how on earth did you calculate the shipping so easily?
oh wow thats a interesting bit of info I'll have to look into that.
Just wondering if anyone has any opinion on the caow1 over the mbow1 (not sure if theres a shielded version if not it's ruled out anyway)
Also any opinion on mb20's as rears? would make it cheaper but we end up with mismatched drivers?
I am a little confused at what the 2 way mbow1's play down to. Going by the graph on the page it looks like it drops off way up at 120ish hz. Am I reading this incorrectly as I've heard they can go down to 50ish. (It's been surprisingly hard to find info on these speakers I've search both these and madisounds forums)
Basically in my head now I'm thinking 5 mbow1 satellites full range and a sub covering anything below. I'm just a little worried about how high I'm going to need to take the sub and any blending problems.
Just wondering if anyone has any opinion on the caow1 over the mbow1 (not sure if theres a shielded version if not it's ruled out anyway)
Also any opinion on mb20's as rears? would make it cheaper but we end up with mismatched drivers?
I am a little confused at what the 2 way mbow1's play down to. Going by the graph on the page it looks like it drops off way up at 120ish hz. Am I reading this incorrectly as I've heard they can go down to 50ish. (It's been surprisingly hard to find info on these speakers I've search both these and madisounds forums)
Basically in my head now I'm thinking 5 mbow1 satellites full range and a sub covering anything below. I'm just a little worried about how high I'm going to need to take the sub and any blending problems.
Hello,
I think I replied to the same thread over on Madisound, with the useless info that I don't use center channels.
I'd like to suggest another option, the North Creek Echo.
http://www.northcreekmusic.com/Echo/EchoInfo.htm
These are fully shielded speakers. And unlike mine or Dennis Murphy's designs, they are designed to sound good close to boundaries. You could put them right up against the wall. Also, they cross over low enough that they can be laid on their side and still maintain good horizontal off axis response - Perfect for center channel usage. And finally, they are a very good value - $150/pair is practically a steal for speakers of this quality. I heard a pair of these at DIY Chicago, and they were very good.
I think that the OW1 tweeter, at $190/pair is a little overpriced for what you get. It doesn't perform any better than a $30 USD Seas except in the area of top octave off axis response. If you go for Dennis Murphy's design, I'd pick the MB27 over the MBOW1. Note that with either of these designs, due to the high crossover point the center channel will have to sit upright to maintain horizontal off axis response. The tweeters aren't available shielded anyway, so they would have to be upright just to keep them away from the picture tube.
Regards,
John
I think I replied to the same thread over on Madisound, with the useless info that I don't use center channels.
I'd like to suggest another option, the North Creek Echo.
http://www.northcreekmusic.com/Echo/EchoInfo.htm
These are fully shielded speakers. And unlike mine or Dennis Murphy's designs, they are designed to sound good close to boundaries. You could put them right up against the wall. Also, they cross over low enough that they can be laid on their side and still maintain good horizontal off axis response - Perfect for center channel usage. And finally, they are a very good value - $150/pair is practically a steal for speakers of this quality. I heard a pair of these at DIY Chicago, and they were very good.
I think that the OW1 tweeter, at $190/pair is a little overpriced for what you get. It doesn't perform any better than a $30 USD Seas except in the area of top octave off axis response. If you go for Dennis Murphy's design, I'd pick the MB27 over the MBOW1. Note that with either of these designs, due to the high crossover point the center channel will have to sit upright to maintain horizontal off axis response. The tweeters aren't available shielded anyway, so they would have to be upright just to keep them away from the picture tube.
Regards,
John
Hi John
Wow thanks for adding yet more confusion the price is pretty good on this set you have pointed out I'm finding it a little hard to find reviews on them though. You've mentioned you've listened to them objectively compared to your mtm and seas mt setup how did they sound? also possibly a comparison to the mbow1 would be great. Basically I'm all for going a cheaper set but as these speakers are going to have to last me years I want to do it properly and don't want any regrets as in I should of spent more. (keeping in mind it will be mostly ht usage but occasionaly cranked for rock style music)
Onto the north creeks again is the only place to buy the components directly from them? Indidually for a pair it looks like the drivers are worth around the $65 mark yet there pair price is $149 is there $90 worth of value in the crossover or am I missing something? I'm also looking for info on whether they ship to Australia.
Finally I noticed they mentioned a centre channel in mtm style yet I can't seem to see the plans, would you recommend I stick to the 5 of the same speakers? My tv is also ~2ft from the wall this won't cause any problems will it?
thanks again
Wow thanks for adding yet more confusion
the price is pretty good on this set you have pointed out I'm finding it a little hard to find reviews on them though. You've mentioned you've listened to them objectively compared to your mtm and seas mt setup how did they sound? also possibly a comparison to the mbow1 would be great. Basically I'm all for going a cheaper set but as these speakers are going to have to last me years I want to do it properly and don't want any regrets as in I should of spent more. (keeping in mind it will be mostly ht usage but occasionaly cranked for rock style music)Onto the north creeks again is the only place to buy the components directly from them? Indidually for a pair it looks like the drivers are worth around the $65 mark yet there pair price is $149 is there $90 worth of value in the crossover or am I missing something? I'm also looking for info on whether they ship to Australia.
Finally I noticed they mentioned a centre channel in mtm style yet I can't seem to see the plans, would you recommend I stick to the 5 of the same speakers? My tv is also ~2ft from the wall this won't cause any problems will it?
thanks again
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.