Community M200 2" are mylar diaphragms also - a nice sounding unit on the Comm horn. Range is 400 - 3.5KHz.
http://www.loudspeakers.net/main/index.php?option=articles&task=viewarticle&sid=25
Tim
http://www.loudspeakers.net/main/index.php?option=articles&task=viewarticle&sid=25
Tim
Hi,
Mc Bean Hornresp is very good, even if pesimistic on the high frequency side.
Mc Bean Hornresp
Never used Soundeasy, can't comment.
Happy year
Miguel
Mc Bean Hornresp is very good, even if pesimistic on the high frequency side.
Mc Bean Hornresp
Never used Soundeasy, can't comment.
Happy year
Miguel
The Unity Horn . .
. . is meant to go down to about 300 Hz.
I know extension depends on horn profile, but when you look up the Unity mid driver, the B&C-DE25, it’s FR is stated as: 1.5kHz - 18kHz ie two octaves higher.
http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-DE25-1.htm
??
Miguel
Thanks, I’ll check out the Horn Loudspeaker Response Analysis Program,
but may have to wait till the New Year - only 3 hours away here. (Does it do conical horns?)
Happy New Year All!
Cheers
Richard
. . is meant to go down to about 300 Hz.
I know extension depends on horn profile, but when you look up the Unity mid driver, the B&C-DE25, it’s FR is stated as: 1.5kHz - 18kHz ie two octaves higher.
http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-DE25-1.htm
??
Miguel
Thanks, I’ll check out the Horn Loudspeaker Response Analysis Program,
but may have to wait till the New Year - only 3 hours away here. (Does it do conical horns?)Happy New Year All!
Cheers
Richard
John
Thanks, that makes sense.
How do you think the sealed back mids compare for detail and smoothness, with a compression driver over that FR (300 – say 1.2k)?
In a discussion a while ago (mid '03) on the [DIY] mailing list -subject “Paul Spencer's inquiry... Re: horns”, following:
> In practice, if your mid horn doesn't get down to unusually low
> frequencies (like 150Hz) and even if it reaches 300Hz (still very low by horn standards), you'll end up needing a "filler" driver to cover the upper bass, lower mid/bass area.
> The "usual" solution is a partially horn loaded 12" or 15" driver - similar in some cases to what . .
you said:
> I think the best solution here (for the Unity) is to go the extra distance of building a third set of drivers into the horn. The one time I did this, it sounded much more cohesive.
Are you suggesting bass drivers that feed into the same point as the mids?? Can you elaborate, or do you have a photo?
Thanks
Thanks, that makes sense.
How do you think the sealed back mids compare for detail and smoothness, with a compression driver over that FR (300 – say 1.2k)?
In a discussion a while ago (mid '03) on the [DIY] mailing list -subject “Paul Spencer's inquiry... Re: horns”, following:
> In practice, if your mid horn doesn't get down to unusually low
> frequencies (like 150Hz) and even if it reaches 300Hz (still very low by horn standards), you'll end up needing a "filler" driver to cover the upper bass, lower mid/bass area.
> The "usual" solution is a partially horn loaded 12" or 15" driver - similar in some cases to what . .
you said:
> I think the best solution here (for the Unity) is to go the extra distance of building a third set of drivers into the horn. The one time I did this, it sounded much more cohesive.
Are you suggesting bass drivers that feed into the same point as the mids?? Can you elaborate, or do you have a photo?
Thanks
rick57 said:
Haven't really made a direct comparison... I'd say the compression driver on its own horn will be easier to get good results from, but you lose the advantage of concentric sources that the unity gives.
No, the third set of drivers would feed in further towards the mouth based on the desired crossover frequency. There's a pic on my webpage in my list of past systems, although not a great one. The tweeter is in the very back. The midrange holes are the four white dots right around the tweeter entrance. Then there are another four white dots closer to the mouth - those were filled in holes. Then there are four holes in the yellow portion of the horn that are the holes for the 12" woofers. This had horribly non-flat response so I had to eq it every which way (active filters), but it still sounded really good in a lot of ways, and I think most were related to all the sound coming from the same point.
Happy new year!!!!!!
This guy in france is very pleased with the BMS 4590. He cuts them at about 250Hz : http://collignon.chez.tiscali.fr/
An other French man uses a fostex full-range in a medium horn here. The site worth a visite even if you can't read french. He did a great job : http://perso.wanadoo.fr/rififi/hifi/enceintes.html and also here : http://perso.wanadoo.fr/rififi/hifi/
Hope it gives some ideas...
This guy in france is very pleased with the BMS 4590. He cuts them at about 250Hz : http://collignon.chez.tiscali.fr/
An other French man uses a fostex full-range in a medium horn here. The site worth a visite even if you can't read french. He did a great job : http://perso.wanadoo.fr/rififi/hifi/enceintes.html and also here : http://perso.wanadoo.fr/rififi/hifi/
Hope it gives some ideas...
John
You (and a lot of others) obviously value cohesiveness highly; I’m more interested in dynamics, smooth response and detail. You said:
> the compression driver on its own horn will be easier to get good results from
With *optimisation of either sealed back mids in a Unity type horn, and a compression driver on its own horn, am I right that the compression driver - due to its much lower moving mass - should have better transient and detail, possibly much better?
Thanks
You (and a lot of others) obviously value cohesiveness highly; I’m more interested in dynamics, smooth response and detail. You said:
> the compression driver on its own horn will be easier to get good results from
With *optimisation of either sealed back mids in a Unity type horn, and a compression driver on its own horn, am I right that the compression driver - due to its much lower moving mass - should have better transient and detail, possibly much better?
Thanks
Ruben
The BMS4590 looks interesting – for those who are not using a tweeter the “two subsystems in one, each driver covers a smaller frequency range for increased power handling, high dynamic and extremely low distortion” compensates. $US 300.
http://www.woodhorn.com/BMS/bms_4590.htm
For my purpose (only to 1500 Hz) I would be better with the H4591 at $240, basically the middle of the 4590, ie without the tweeter. Mind you, compared to output at 1000 Hz, by 500 Hz, it’s down about 3 dB.
Anyone know of a 3 inch compression currently made?
The BMS4590 looks interesting – for those who are not using a tweeter the “two subsystems in one, each driver covers a smaller frequency range for increased power handling, high dynamic and extremely low distortion” compensates. $US 300.
http://www.woodhorn.com/BMS/bms_4590.htm
For my purpose (only to 1500 Hz) I would be better with the H4591 at $240, basically the middle of the 4590, ie without the tweeter. Mind you, compared to output at 1000 Hz, by 500 Hz, it’s down about 3 dB.
Anyone know of a 3 inch compression currently made?
Hi rick57, all
In my very humble opinion:
If it is dynamics and detail you're after, you are probably better of with separate horns.
A nice hypex or tractrix midrange horn with a good driver.
I have heard a set of Lambda Unitys here in Norway, they sound very nice and coherent. But you get more subjective dynamics from a good midrange horn IMHO.
cheers
rick57 said:
In my very humble opinion:
If it is dynamics and detail you're after, you are probably better of with separate horns.
A nice hypex or tractrix midrange horn with a good driver.
I have heard a set of Lambda Unitys here in Norway, they sound very nice and coherent. But you get more subjective dynamics from a good midrange horn IMHO.
cheers
Learning the world of horns sometimes seems like navigating in a room of mirrors. 
Jeff
I understand your point. That makes it more difficult than with conventional drivers to compare or judge specs.
slowmotion
I was thinking I may well be better of with separate horns.
> A nice hypex or tractrix midrange horn with a good driver
I’m leaning to a pyramidical conical horn because of its simplicity, but am open ti ideas.
Any thoughts on a driver to get down to 350 Hz (I don’t mind using EQ)?
BTW, I really like your avatar, seems to suit a Norwegian horn fan - what sort of horn?
Jeff
I understand your point. That makes it more difficult than with conventional drivers to compare or judge specs.
slowmotion
I was thinking I may well be better of with separate horns.
> A nice hypex or tractrix midrange horn with a good driver
I’m leaning to a pyramidical conical horn because of its simplicity, but am open ti ideas.
Any thoughts on a driver to get down to 350 Hz (I don’t mind using EQ)?
BTW, I really like your avatar, seems to suit a Norwegian horn fan - what sort of horn?
I’ve been doing some research and more likely candidates at this stage are:
P-Audio BMD750,
BMS 4590-4592,
Beyma CP750, B&C DE750,
Community M200 and
JBL 2445, 2482, 2446H & 2450H.
Front runners may be BMS H4591 and P-Audio BMD750.
Second hand, the Altec 291K and a number of others.
I’m not convinced that JBL are worth four times the price of the P-Audio etc. though open to opinion.
BTW Jeff, is it time for your online alter ego to toss that floppy hat?
P-Audio BMD750,
BMS 4590-4592,
Beyma CP750, B&C DE750,
Community M200 and
JBL 2445, 2482, 2446H & 2450H.
Front runners may be BMS H4591 and P-Audio BMD750.
Second hand, the Altec 291K and a number of others.
I’m not convinced that JBL are worth four times the price of the P-Audio etc. though open to opinion.
BTW Jeff, is it time for your online alter ego to toss that floppy hat?
Hi rick57, all
Yes, a horn system is very difficult to get right.
I'm still trying, and I've been at it for a while now
On the other hand a good horn system opens up the music
in a way I have never heard from "normal" speakers
I know that a lot of people are using conical midrange horns these days.
They are easy to make, but you need to use a lot of EQ to make them sound right IMHO.
I am moving away from them again, back to hypex horns.
The horn in the avatar is an old Western Electric midrange horn.
Fun, fun
cheers
Yes, a horn system is very difficult to get right.
I'm still trying, and I've been at it for a while now
On the other hand a good horn system opens up the music
in a way I have never heard from "normal" speakers
I know that a lot of people are using conical midrange horns these days.
They are easy to make, but you need to use a lot of EQ to make them sound right IMHO.
I am moving away from them again, back to hypex horns.
The horn in the avatar is an old Western Electric midrange horn.
Fun, fun
cheers
rick57 said:
I'm not familiar with the P-Audio, but certainly my new Beyma drivers do not compare with old Altec or JBL in terms of build quality.
rick57 said:
You've got your head stuck inside a horn
- You haven't noticed I changed it a few hours ago.Slowmotion's avatar looks like a WE15A horn with a WE555 compression driver. You could use a set of these! This set up would cover your desired range with ease. You'd have to take out a second mortgage, though.
Hi Jan
As the compression driver will be 6-12 dB more efficient than the tweeter, I don’t mind using some EQ. So conical midrange horns may have a very lumpy FR – could you elaborate – what did you try?
I googled on hypex horns, but found very little.
Is it a hybrid hyperbolic & tractrix?
Hi Jeff
How are the new Beyma drivers for sound quality?
Avatar - so back to the time of the pyramids
That WE15A horn looks great.
> You could use a set of these!
> You'd have to take out a second mortgage, though.
Man you’re sending me on a roller coaster!
I’d like to find someone who could make it. Is it an curvilinear expo hyperbolic quasi druid?
As the compression driver will be 6-12 dB more efficient than the tweeter, I don’t mind using some EQ. So conical midrange horns may have a very lumpy FR – could you elaborate – what did you try?
I googled on hypex horns, but found very little.
Is it a hybrid hyperbolic & tractrix?
Hi Jeff
How are the new Beyma drivers for sound quality?
Avatar - so back to the time of the pyramids
That WE15A horn looks great.
> You could use a set of these!
> You'd have to take out a second mortgage, though.
Man you’re sending me on a roller coaster!
I’d like to find someone who could make it. Is it an curvilinear expo hyperbolic quasi druid?
Hi,
You can get your WE15A replicas here :
http://www.audioanthology.com/index.htm
Don't know what you would have to pay for them , tho..........
cheers
PS:
Don't know if you know these sites allready,
Volvotreter have Bruce Edgars Speakerbuilder articles online:
http://volvotreter.de/
You can also go here:
http://melhuish.org/audio/horn.html
This page is not complete anymore, I don't know how long it stays up.
Be sure to check out John Sheerins web site, too!
Have fun!
cheers
You can get your WE15A replicas here
:http://www.audioanthology.com/index.htm
Don't know what you would have to pay for them , tho..........
cheers
PS:
Don't know if you know these sites allready,
Volvotreter have Bruce Edgars Speakerbuilder articles online:
http://volvotreter.de/
You can also go here:
http://melhuish.org/audio/horn.html
This page is not complete anymore, I don't know how long it stays up.
Be sure to check out John Sheerins web site, too!
Have fun!
cheers
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.