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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Can anyone suggest a tweeter for parts express's Dayton Rs180 woofer. I would like to use a first order passive crossover
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sorry, I don't think it's a good idea to use first order crossovers with the Dayton RS series. It might work if you push the crossover VERY low- like below 1khz... but with any aluminum cone driver, they hard part is the crossover. It's got to be a steep slope- the only way you could get away with a shallower slope would be if you could very accurately measure the breakup frequencies and filter them out.
Right now I think that the "correct" way to use this particular driver is going to be something like a 4th order crossover at 2khz to a Seas 27TDCF... but I haven't tried it yet. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Aridzona
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This driver is not suited for first order. The cone breakup needs a steep slope or a notch filter. I have a published design for this driver using the Neo3 PDR. Measurements are included.
http://www.lonesaguaro.com/speakers/...7/Cryolite.htm |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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My plan was to use a notch filter,to deal with cone break-up. The reason I want to use a first order crossover is 1. because the speaker baffle is sloped 2.trying to make it simple
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Windy City
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Quote:
Though the MTMs I have use a pair of RS150's and the 27TDFC. One heck of a good setup on the cheap! Maybe $130 in parts including enclosure, each. The RS180's and the 27TDFC should be a top notch match. Had I not been building for a HT where dimension limitations exist, I very probably would have gone that route. C |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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cjd Can you provided more information on your MTM rs150 Thanks
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Windy City
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I run out of amp before I run out of driver, and my ears aren't particularly happy at that point.
I'm still in the crossover tweaking stage, so I have no specific plans to be shared at the moment. Generically, it looks like it models to a 4th order butterworth acoustic slope at about 2400hz (that's what it worked out to be - I only give myself a target to start with and then tweak till things start working well and not worry if it wanders a bit). Simple 3rd order electric circuits with zobel on the mids, and RL on the tweeter (probably only a resistor is needed but these tweets do pick up a few dB in the last octave). C |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Chris,
What do you mean by your ears not being happy with the sound at high volumes? Is there some kind of distortion or do the speakers really play that loud? (I'm thinking about a possible TDFC upgrade for my own speakers and I'd like to get a handle on its dynamic performance...) Thanks Michael P |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Windy City
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Yes, that loud.
FWIW, in an MTM the RS150's run out of excursion if there's any good bass before the tweeter runs out of steam. Though crossing it lower (as recommended by many with the Dayton RS series) would alter that somewhat. And the RS180's have a bit more travel to play with. I did hear a pair of TBFC/G's bottom, crossed at 1800hz to a single RS150. Normalized playback at 88dB on pink noise (200hz-10kHz I think it was) but just one piece. Not sure what caused it. Different driver but I think(?) similar motor. I would say that for normal playback, you'll not run into trouble. C |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Seas L18RNX/P vs. Dayton RS180-4 | Jlace | Multi-Way | 2 | 17th April 2007 08:28 PM |
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