Price is no object here. I'm looking for the best and easiest (if there is one) way to paint some speakers. Black is the preferred color. Would like to get a glossy finish; piano would be stellar but medium gloss would be fine as well. The paint also needs to be quite durable, so if my nephews come over and throw a toy and it hits it, it won't necessarily make a mark.
Is there such a product out there, maybe in a spray paint? I know to get a stellar finish it takes coats of primer, sanding, sealant, yada yada yada... I do like the look of the truck bed liner, even though it's not necessarily glossy, but it seems to not hold up well when I do a test with a finger nail. Always leaves a mark.
Thanks!
Is there such a product out there, maybe in a spray paint? I know to get a stellar finish it takes coats of primer, sanding, sealant, yada yada yada... I do like the look of the truck bed liner, even though it's not necessarily glossy, but it seems to not hold up well when I do a test with a finger nail. Always leaves a mark.
Thanks!
The "easiest" lacquer IMO is granite effect lacquer.
Mind you it´s a "structure"-lacquer and won´t have a plain surface.
You can slightly sand it down though and apply a clear lacquer (parquet kind) to make kids-safe.
http://www.visaton.de/vb/showthread.php?threadid=7058&highlight=granit+effekt+lack
Mind you it´s a "structure"-lacquer and won´t have a plain surface.
You can slightly sand it down though and apply a clear lacquer (parquet kind) to make kids-safe.
http://www.visaton.de/vb/showthread.php?threadid=7058&highlight=granit+effekt+lack
Wow guys, looks great.
I just got home from my brother's house and he just got a new huge air compressor. I'm thinking of maybe using that since it's available. Do you think I could get much better results with an air compressor and spray gun? If so, which type of primer/paint will I need?
Thanks!
I just got home from my brother's house and he just got a new huge air compressor. I'm thinking of maybe using that since it's available. Do you think I could get much better results with an air compressor and spray gun? If so, which type of primer/paint will I need?
Thanks!
solutions
well you have a few options. First, you have the safer of the two. Laquer. stay away from your home depot stuff, and go get the real acryllic autobody stuff. Laquer is easy to apply, easy to fix mistakes, and if you wear a respirator and ventalate the area won't kill you either. The end result however isn't as shiny or as durable as urethane and can be sprayed with cheaper guns. Once you get about 9 coats or so on, you can wet sand it and buff it out. I must however stress that if you arn't familiar with propper surface prep then your results won't be too good. you need to start by filling all gaps, and then sand the filler. Prime the entire unti with a high build primer. It may take numerous coats and repeated sanding before you get this right. You will need to wetsand with atleast 800 gritt to get the scratches out prior to color coating. Remember don't mix enamels and laquers unless you like redoing everything from scratch. You can use any autobody base for color, and I recomend valspar for price. I use Dupont, but it's not cheap at all at 100 per quart. If you want to get truely professional results you will need alot more equipment. I use three different guns, a makeshift spray booth, a huge air compressor, and 15 different grades of sand paper. Email me for more tips. I use Urethane paint but I can't recomend it becasue the hardeners contain a toxic chemical that is dangerous to ling function and must be sprayed in the propper environment while wearing a supplied air respirator. Remember never sand unless you are using a block behind your sandpaper. I think your best bet is to have a local body shop do it.
well you have a few options. First, you have the safer of the two. Laquer. stay away from your home depot stuff, and go get the real acryllic autobody stuff. Laquer is easy to apply, easy to fix mistakes, and if you wear a respirator and ventalate the area won't kill you either. The end result however isn't as shiny or as durable as urethane and can be sprayed with cheaper guns. Once you get about 9 coats or so on, you can wet sand it and buff it out. I must however stress that if you arn't familiar with propper surface prep then your results won't be too good. you need to start by filling all gaps, and then sand the filler. Prime the entire unti with a high build primer. It may take numerous coats and repeated sanding before you get this right. You will need to wetsand with atleast 800 gritt to get the scratches out prior to color coating. Remember don't mix enamels and laquers unless you like redoing everything from scratch. You can use any autobody base for color, and I recomend valspar for price. I use Dupont, but it's not cheap at all at 100 per quart. If you want to get truely professional results you will need alot more equipment. I use three different guns, a makeshift spray booth, a huge air compressor, and 15 different grades of sand paper. Email me for more tips. I use Urethane paint but I can't recomend it becasue the hardeners contain a toxic chemical that is dangerous to ling function and must be sprayed in the propper environment while wearing a supplied air respirator. Remember never sand unless you are using a block behind your sandpaper. I think your best bet is to have a local body shop do it.
Urethane
I almost forgot that when I say urethane I'm not refering to the stuff you can buy at your local home improvement store. I'm refering to Autobody paint. For more info please go to the follwoing sites. For safety don't ever buy anything that requires a hardener, becasue it probably contains some derivitive of isocynates.
www.sharpe1.com
look at the docter gun forum, but be ready to get a huge air compressor.
http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmHome.asp
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/bowstreet5/webengine/dpc/common/Controller/Action!_pageDispatcher/InnerModel!dpc/modules/Login/OuterModel!dpc/common/Controller/InnerAction!visitorAction
http://www.sassafety.com/
I almost forgot that when I say urethane I'm not refering to the stuff you can buy at your local home improvement store. I'm refering to Autobody paint. For more info please go to the follwoing sites. For safety don't ever buy anything that requires a hardener, becasue it probably contains some derivitive of isocynates.
www.sharpe1.com
look at the docter gun forum, but be ready to get a huge air compressor.
http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmHome.asp
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/bowstreet5/webengine/dpc/common/Controller/Action!_pageDispatcher/InnerModel!dpc/modules/Login/OuterModel!dpc/common/Controller/InnerAction!visitorAction
http://www.sassafety.com/
spray guns
the latest in spray gun tech is, RP conventional, look at the sharpe titatium compliant gun. and for primer I would buy a devilbiss finishline III with a 1.8mm fluid tip. Follow Dr. Gun's instructions for testing air capacity. Try to not keep the air compressor running all the time to avoid spraying with hot air. Body shops have dryers and coolers on the lines to avoid this. If you can put some type of filter in the line to screen debris I would and they are usually sold at autobody supply places for 8 bucks or less. For money savings I would go with Valspar primer filler, followed by a coat of white primer sealer, and then basecoat. Valspar paint is **** as far as cars go but it's good enough for speakers where weather and color match isn't as important. Usually basecoats reduce by half. Then finally Clear with AC-355 or AC-4400, I would use the one with the faster flash since your not in a spray boot. Pretty much anyway you will have to wetsand with 1500 gritt and buff when your done, but the faster the flash the less dust to sand out. I use Dupont Chromabase over generic primer filler and a dupont primer sealer. I then topcoat with Dupont 7600 SpeedClear. Using any of the finshes above requires a spray booth and propper use of a supplied air respirator to prevent permanant lung damage or lung failure. Lethal exposure can be in small amouts for highly sensatized individuals, and there's no way to know if your sensatized or not. If you make even a microscopic error in the primer coats it will show up when the clear shrinks up in about a month. Unless you have done this before I can assure you that you have no idea how perfect the substrate has to be to produce shiny glass like results. The professional paints, when used correctly, however do make getting qualtiy results alot easier then with consumer furniture finishes. Final buffing is done by wet sanding the finish with 1500 gritt paper followed by a quality compound. Everybody who knows finishing uses the 3m Finesse It system. The other systems are made for cured finishes. depending on the clear you will be ready to sand and buff in as litttle as 2 hours, but a reasonable cure is usually achieved in a few 3-4 days and it should be able to pass the fingernail test you speak of in about a month. Even though these finishes are chemically cured they still have solvent to evaporate. Remember the primer can take forever to get right. sealer is usually 1-2 light coats. Base is between 2-5 light coats. and Clear is usually high build and only requires 3 coats. If you new I might spray more like 6-8 to allow some extra clearance for sanding and buffing. For propper gun technique refer to Dr. Gun. HVLP and conventional have a different techniqe. AS you get better you will also get faster. Lastly I can't share this but I actually have a secret that completely avoids the surface prep stage all togather. It also yields a perfectly flat surface. But I can't let out all the secrets.
the latest in spray gun tech is, RP conventional, look at the sharpe titatium compliant gun. and for primer I would buy a devilbiss finishline III with a 1.8mm fluid tip. Follow Dr. Gun's instructions for testing air capacity. Try to not keep the air compressor running all the time to avoid spraying with hot air. Body shops have dryers and coolers on the lines to avoid this. If you can put some type of filter in the line to screen debris I would and they are usually sold at autobody supply places for 8 bucks or less. For money savings I would go with Valspar primer filler, followed by a coat of white primer sealer, and then basecoat. Valspar paint is **** as far as cars go but it's good enough for speakers where weather and color match isn't as important. Usually basecoats reduce by half. Then finally Clear with AC-355 or AC-4400, I would use the one with the faster flash since your not in a spray boot. Pretty much anyway you will have to wetsand with 1500 gritt and buff when your done, but the faster the flash the less dust to sand out. I use Dupont Chromabase over generic primer filler and a dupont primer sealer. I then topcoat with Dupont 7600 SpeedClear. Using any of the finshes above requires a spray booth and propper use of a supplied air respirator to prevent permanant lung damage or lung failure. Lethal exposure can be in small amouts for highly sensatized individuals, and there's no way to know if your sensatized or not. If you make even a microscopic error in the primer coats it will show up when the clear shrinks up in about a month. Unless you have done this before I can assure you that you have no idea how perfect the substrate has to be to produce shiny glass like results. The professional paints, when used correctly, however do make getting qualtiy results alot easier then with consumer furniture finishes. Final buffing is done by wet sanding the finish with 1500 gritt paper followed by a quality compound. Everybody who knows finishing uses the 3m Finesse It system. The other systems are made for cured finishes. depending on the clear you will be ready to sand and buff in as litttle as 2 hours, but a reasonable cure is usually achieved in a few 3-4 days and it should be able to pass the fingernail test you speak of in about a month. Even though these finishes are chemically cured they still have solvent to evaporate. Remember the primer can take forever to get right. sealer is usually 1-2 light coats. Base is between 2-5 light coats. and Clear is usually high build and only requires 3 coats. If you new I might spray more like 6-8 to allow some extra clearance for sanding and buffing. For propper gun technique refer to Dr. Gun. HVLP and conventional have a different techniqe. AS you get better you will also get faster. Lastly I can't share this but I actually have a secret that completely avoids the surface prep stage all togather. It also yields a perfectly flat surface. But I can't let out all the secrets.
Not Easy
I'm thinking of using this on my MTM TL (TQWT) project PianoLac.
Man, I should have bought that Graco Sprayer!
PS: that would be the Black Wood Lacquer
I'm thinking of using this on my MTM TL (TQWT) project PianoLac.
Man, I should have bought that Graco Sprayer!
PS: that would be the Black Wood Lacquer
Best/easiest finishes and your safety..
MP006ltk certainly knows his stuff with respect to finishes..
I would offer a few cautions here. IF you are intending to do this yourself, and do not have spray equipment... well.. I would make some inquiries into having a local shop do it for you..
I have an HVLP spray set up and routinely spray furniture projects in a make-shift spray booth.. I use primarily nitrocellulose (conventional lacquers), along with some two-part finishes. Almost all of the latter contain some derivative of isocyanate-those containing Toluene Di-Isocyanate (TDI) are the most dangerous with respect to your health. Isocyanate-based products when applied via spray application are very strong respiratory sensitizers. Cartridge respiratory protection is not effective, as the tiny aerosolized finish molecules pass right through the cartridge's charcoal filter bed and are inhaled by the user. I know of some cases where even casual painters have a near asthmatic attack when they even walk by an open autobody shop bat door where TDI based products are being used.
Just wanted you to know that the industrial finishes, while much more durable and attractive that the "Home Depot" type products, may present some serious health concerns to the user.
Regards,
HTRookie
MP006ltk certainly knows his stuff with respect to finishes..
I would offer a few cautions here. IF you are intending to do this yourself, and do not have spray equipment... well.. I would make some inquiries into having a local shop do it for you..
I have an HVLP spray set up and routinely spray furniture projects in a make-shift spray booth.. I use primarily nitrocellulose (conventional lacquers), along with some two-part finishes. Almost all of the latter contain some derivative of isocyanate-those containing Toluene Di-Isocyanate (TDI) are the most dangerous with respect to your health. Isocyanate-based products when applied via spray application are very strong respiratory sensitizers. Cartridge respiratory protection is not effective, as the tiny aerosolized finish molecules pass right through the cartridge's charcoal filter bed and are inhaled by the user. I know of some cases where even casual painters have a near asthmatic attack when they even walk by an open autobody shop bat door where TDI based products are being used.
Just wanted you to know that the industrial finishes, while much more durable and attractive that the "Home Depot" type products, may present some serious health concerns to the user.
Regards,
HTRookie
Graco sprayer.
I would probably not use a turbine powered sprayer unless for primer. The results don't compare to what can be achieved with compressed air. I use Sharpe, but many people really like Sata, and Devillbiss seems to have a very loyal base of customers. Binks is good I hear for high solids clears but not so good for other uses. I buy sharpe for their service. They are an american company so parts are easy to get. For primer if you don't want to run a compressor, I would go to harbor freight and order a cheap turbine hvlp. I think they are like 60 bucks on sale. I like mine for shooting primer, and the price is about the same as a primer gun anyway. Who cares about the finish of a coat you have to sand anyway.
I would probably not use a turbine powered sprayer unless for primer. The results don't compare to what can be achieved with compressed air. I use Sharpe, but many people really like Sata, and Devillbiss seems to have a very loyal base of customers. Binks is good I hear for high solids clears but not so good for other uses. I buy sharpe for their service. They are an american company so parts are easy to get. For primer if you don't want to run a compressor, I would go to harbor freight and order a cheap turbine hvlp. I think they are like 60 bucks on sale. I like mine for shooting primer, and the price is about the same as a primer gun anyway. Who cares about the finish of a coat you have to sand anyway.
isopcynate free cl;ear
look at dupont's web site. They have an iso free clear. I don't know how good it is, but it would be safe for use with a cartridge respirator. I see thought that the basecoat must be activated with a special clearcoat adhesion promoter. I also think it's only sold in galons. After you buy all this stuff, you could probably have had a local shop do it about 10 times over.
look at dupont's web site. They have an iso free clear. I don't know how good it is, but it would be safe for use with a cartridge respirator. I see thought that the basecoat must be activated with a special clearcoat adhesion promoter. I also think it's only sold in galons. After you buy all this stuff, you could probably have had a local shop do it about 10 times over.
cost
jsut a guess here. I would expect to pay about 35/hr for the "bodywork" Probably about 4-5 hours and then about 45/hr for paint and probably about 2 hours there. Labor rates should include materials. I would try to get the big work done before you go there like filling screw holes etc. don't oversand, this is a common mistake and winds up casuing waves in the final finish, and will usually round over all the edges if you don't have any experience. Finding a shop that does quality work and uses good materials shouldn't cost any more. Try to find a shop with modern equipment, a clean shop, and a quality paint system. i would Use PPG, Dupont, RM Diamond, Glasurit, Sikkens, Sherwin williams etc. I would not use House of Kolor, Valspar, ICI Autocolor, Martin Senior, Matrix, or any of the generics. When the pro's are doing the work it's not going to cost more for good paint. Despite the sudden following from watcher of the american chopper and pimp my ride that love Valspar, and House of Kolor, they are really only for low cost show, and even the outragous colors can be duplicated with other paints. Let the design make the statement not the color. I made that mistake with my last project and I kind of regret using neon yellow with blue pearl clear. My next project will be a far more understated color. I'm thinking a titanium silver, or pearl white. And my next project wil be a duzy. I'm just searching for ideas, since I want something unique and not another wilson look alike. I'm thinking of using some carbon fiber for the cabinet... Take Care...
jsut a guess here. I would expect to pay about 35/hr for the "bodywork" Probably about 4-5 hours and then about 45/hr for paint and probably about 2 hours there. Labor rates should include materials. I would try to get the big work done before you go there like filling screw holes etc. don't oversand, this is a common mistake and winds up casuing waves in the final finish, and will usually round over all the edges if you don't have any experience. Finding a shop that does quality work and uses good materials shouldn't cost any more. Try to find a shop with modern equipment, a clean shop, and a quality paint system. i would Use PPG, Dupont, RM Diamond, Glasurit, Sikkens, Sherwin williams etc. I would not use House of Kolor, Valspar, ICI Autocolor, Martin Senior, Matrix, or any of the generics. When the pro's are doing the work it's not going to cost more for good paint. Despite the sudden following from watcher of the american chopper and pimp my ride that love Valspar, and House of Kolor, they are really only for low cost show, and even the outragous colors can be duplicated with other paints. Let the design make the statement not the color. I made that mistake with my last project and I kind of regret using neon yellow with blue pearl clear. My next project will be a far more understated color. I'm thinking a titanium silver, or pearl white. And my next project wil be a duzy. I'm just searching for ideas, since I want something unique and not another wilson look alike. I'm thinking of using some carbon fiber for the cabinet... Take Care...
Personally I'm a fan of automotive Urethane 2-stage paints.
Of course, my father owns a body shop, so this is easy for me to say.
This is a 2 stage Urethane. Black basecoat, topped with clearcoat, then wetsanded and buffed.
Of course, my father owns a body shop, so this is easy for me to say.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is a 2 stage Urethane. Black basecoat, topped with clearcoat, then wetsanded and buffed.
After he saw how much work I had to do to prep mine, I doubt he'd ever consider spraying paint onto wood again!
If I knew how much primer and sealer those cabinets would suck up, I would have taken a different approach too. Next time I paint speakers, I'm brushing on a coat of resin first to seal the wood.
I would go chat with a local auto body shop to see what they say. I would guess that a full sized set of line arrays would cost you somewhere around $500-1000 for smoothing, paint, wetsanding and buffing. The cost of materials is substantially higher than most people realize. I'm fortunate that I've got access to all of his leftovers.
If I knew how much primer and sealer those cabinets would suck up, I would have taken a different approach too. Next time I paint speakers, I'm brushing on a coat of resin first to seal the wood.
I would go chat with a local auto body shop to see what they say. I would guess that a full sized set of line arrays would cost you somewhere around $500-1000 for smoothing, paint, wetsanding and buffing. The cost of materials is substantially higher than most people realize. I'm fortunate that I've got access to all of his leftovers.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.