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Old 24th February 2005, 07:02 AM   #31
sargon is offline sargon  United States
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Default Best paint

There is this paint that looks like granite when it's dry. You have to use a gun to spray it. One company that makes it is called Zolatone. It's pretty expensive, but it's a nice finish. It covers up any imperfections in the wood and they have a water based one with no fumes. I don't know where to buy it though.
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Old 4th June 2005, 07:53 PM   #32
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Why does everyone use automotive primers on their MDF?!?!

I use a specialist MDF primer, that locks the surface and prevents further soak-up of coats.

Very easy to do, I apply 5 coats to make absolutely sure that the surface is good. Then wet sand the brush marks out with a palm sander and 380grit pads - very effective and quick.

Then onto the basecoat, a 2-3 good even coats then sand using 800 grit. Afterwards a final coat with no sanding and straight to the laquer. With 1500 grit on that and G3 rubbing compound.

I get great results everytime.
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Old 5th June 2005, 03:22 PM   #33
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Default Primers

I have switched to a roll on autobody primer from PPG it's about 55 bucks a quart with the hardener, but it's easy to apply sand, and is way better then the old laquer primer I was using. It' also sticks to the surface of the material i now use to glaze and level the cabinets before sanding and painting. But it's also an Isocynate hardener so it's not for consumer use. supposedly since it's applied by roller you can use it outside the booth with a fresh set of organic cartriges on your respirator, but I don't know what the official OSHA rules are here. It';s also quite efficient since it's extremely high solids. Jut be sure to mix it well, The good stuff really cakes to the bottom and may require as much as 20 minutes of solid mixing, if it's set awhile and if you don't have a paint shaker.
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Old 6th June 2005, 02:29 PM   #34
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Default Re: Primers

Quote:
Originally posted by mp006ltk
I have switched to a roll on autobody primer from PPG it's about 55 bucks a quart with the hardener, but it's easy to apply sand, and is way better then the old laquer primer I was using. It' also sticks to the surface of the material i now use to glaze and level the cabinets before sanding and painting. But it's also an Isocynate hardener so it's not for consumer use. supposedly since it's applied by roller you can use it outside the booth with a fresh set of organic cartriges on your respirator, but I don't know what the official OSHA rules are here. It';s also quite efficient since it's extremely high solids. Jut be sure to mix it well, The good stuff really cakes to the bottom and may require as much as 20 minutes of solid mixing, if it's set awhile and if you don't have a paint shaker.

55 a quart????? OOOOOOUUUUUUUUUCHHHHHHHHHHH

get some Bin Sealer/primer... do one coat... then do a single coat of universal gray sandable primer... then you can sand out imperfections...
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Old 6th June 2005, 04:26 PM   #35
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Default you get what you pay for

The ppg stuff is really good, you pay for the solids. I also used it on my front bumber and I won't go back. All other primers suck. Since I don't have to spray it, I can do it in my garage. Very nice. No dragging speakers to the spray booth until they're ready for color. it's so high solids that I have done two large speakers and only used about a quarter of a quart. So I figure that the primer here has cost be about 10 bucks since th other 2 went on my front bumper to fix a gouge after I filled it with flexable filler. Not to mention that rolling it on saves alot of time, with not having to clean spray guns, and the shop etc.....
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