Veneering opinion? - Page 4

tktran · 16th December 2004, 12:18 AM

On thicker MDF (3/4" or greater) I assumed that a backing/balancing veneer was not required.

To those who have successfully veneered their speakers without running into long-term issues (bubbling, warping etc), did you use paper backed veneer or raw veneer, and did you use a backing veneer?

My veneer is 0.5 millimetres thin, and not paper-backed, and veneered only on one side of the MDF.

fish4u · 16th December 2004, 04:47 AM

Then use lock miter bit!!
anyone here ever tried using lock miter bit?

i dont have router table so its too unsafe for me

edit: i meant .. i dont have a router table so its not applicable to me. but just by looking at its cut.. its quiet interesting...

Hornlover · 16th December 2004, 02:59 PM

I use paper backed veneer, .010" thk (.25mm). I only veneer one side. I have never had a problem with the veneer, and I have some boxes I did 25 years ago. I use brush on contact cement, coating both the veneer and the enclosure side. I dont know about the permanance of the iron on kind, as I have little experience with it.

tiroth · 16th December 2004, 03:13 PM

I've also used 10 mil paper backed, applied with water based contact cement and a stiff scraper. I can't comment on its permanence, but it looks great now.

I sealed the veneer with a coat of shellac and the MDF with an all-purpose water-base sealer. In my tests the bond was significantly better if the MDF was sealed first, and I had no problems with the veneer curling.

I don't think a backing veneer is necessary when veneering a box, simply because the box itself holds the panel square. I think this is more of a problem in something like a tabletop or a raw panel.

Timn8ter · 16th December 2004, 03:48 PM

Paper back veneer works fine and will last many years if applied correctly. It's best to apply two coats of contact cement to both the veneer and the box completely drying the cement after each coat with a heat gun or hair dryer. The contact cement may cause the grain to rise slightly so I usually follow up with a light sanding then clear coat. This is a pic of an MDF cabinet with maple paperback veneer.

santi · 17th December 2004, 01:04 AM

Timn8ter,
Very nice look. How you manage the corner? Wrap or veneering then cut side by side?

Timn8ter · 17th December 2004, 01:22 AM

Thanks. It's not difficult to match up grain on paperback since it's a repeating pattern. I cut the veneer with a ~1/4" overhang on each side, glue it, then use a trimmer followed by a file to clean up the edge.

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16th December 2004, 12:18 AM	#31
tktran Account Disabled Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Perth	On thicker MDF (3/4" or greater) I assumed that a backing/balancing veneer was not required. To those who have successfully veneered their speakers without running into long-term issues (bubbling, warping etc), did you use paper backed veneer or raw veneer, and did you use a backing veneer? My veneer is 0.5 millimetres thin, and not paper-backed, and veneered only on one side of the MDF.

16th December 2004, 04:47 AM	#32
fish4u diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	Then use lock miter bit!! anyone here ever tried using lock miter bit? i dont have router table so its too unsafe for me edit: i meant .. i dont have a router table so its not applicable to me. but just by looking at its cut.. its quiet interesting...

16th December 2004, 02:59 PM	#33
Hornlover diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Central California	I use paper backed veneer, .010" thk (.25mm). I only veneer one side. I have never had a problem with the veneer, and I have some boxes I did 25 years ago. I use brush on contact cement, coating both the veneer and the enclosure side. I dont know about the permanance of the iron on kind, as I have little experience with it.

16th December 2004, 03:13 PM	#34
tiroth diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA	I've also used 10 mil paper backed, applied with water based contact cement and a stiff scraper. I can't comment on its permanence, but it looks great now. I sealed the veneer with a coat of shellac and the MDF with an all-purpose water-base sealer. In my tests the bond was significantly better if the MDF was sealed first, and I had no problems with the veneer curling. I don't think a backing veneer is necessary when veneering a box, simply because the box itself holds the panel square. I think this is more of a problem in something like a tabletop or a raw panel.

17th December 2004, 01:04 AM	#36
santi diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Bangkok	Timn8ter, Very nice look. How you manage the corner? Wrap or veneering then cut side by side?

17th December 2004, 01:22 AM	#37
Timn8ter diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Seattle, WA	Thanks. It's not difficult to match up grain on paperback since it's a repeating pattern. I cut the veneer with a ~1/4" overhang on each side, glue it, then use a trimmer followed by a file to clean up the edge.

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