Getting ready to cut (or have cut) the cabinets for my line arrays and was wondering which router bits I am going to need? I already bought the two Jasper circle jigs. I was at the local Home Depot today checking out routers and bits and they have a 20 piece Ryobi carbide bit set that's "valued" at $330 if each bit was purchased separately. They have it for $130 and on sale for $100. Was thinking of giving it a try and if I'm not satisfied with them I have 30 days to return them. It came with 4 straight bits, 4 diff. roundovers, chamfer, the works. What I'm unsure about is which bit to use for doing driver recesses and cutouts? I still haven't purchased my router and was wondering if it's worth it to spend the extra money and get a plunge? I really liked the feel of the $99 Porter Cable fixed base, but the plunge version was $199, albeit it was stronger. I have also heard good things about the Ryobi plunge that sells for $99.
So...I get the router attached to the jig, which bit do I use and can I cut straight into the MDF with it? By the looks of the straight bits it looks like they were flat on the bottom of the bit, or am I mistaken?
Sorry if this is a newbie question but I've never used a router in my life
Thanks!
EDIT:
Also, my arrays are 72" x 6.5" x 8" and I'm not sure if I can get an accurate 72" cut on my crappy table saw or if I can find a cabinet shop to do the cuts. Could I use a full-sheet of MDF as a rip guide, measure precisely and clamp it down to the board I'm cutting? Then just run the router down it to make a perfect cut? Seems like it could work but want the pros' opinions!
So...I get the router attached to the jig, which bit do I use and can I cut straight into the MDF with it? By the looks of the straight bits it looks like they were flat on the bottom of the bit, or am I mistaken?
Sorry if this is a newbie question but I've never used a router in my life
Thanks!
EDIT:
Also, my arrays are 72" x 6.5" x 8" and I'm not sure if I can get an accurate 72" cut on my crappy table saw or if I can find a cabinet shop to do the cuts. Could I use a full-sheet of MDF as a rip guide, measure precisely and clamp it down to the board I'm cutting? Then just run the router down it to make a perfect cut? Seems like it could work but want the pros' opinions!
I'll give you (perhaps the first) of many differing views.
Plunge router is very handy, especially for cutting those many holes.
Buy the bits, you'll likely spend that much in a hurry on them anyway. The selection will be nice.
I have 9 routers, one of them is 3HP 1/2" Ryobi....a decent tool, given me about 14 years of at least weeky use, so I can say they're a good value. Porter Cable is prolly the standard for mechanics who make their living with the tool, a real workhorse. But if I was starting out, I'd buy the plunge Ryobi and a small laminate trimmer sized one as well, and a pattern makers bit with that $200. Changing routers is easier than bits.
Use a portable handheld powersaw to make those long rips as you described with the clamped straightedge. Not your router. Or use your tablesaw. Tune it up if it's funny, and make a runoff table. A smaller, thin kerf blade will cut easier than the biggest size it takes.
Also check out the local Sears Repair Center for almost new ones at reduced price.
Plunge router is very handy, especially for cutting those many holes.
Buy the bits, you'll likely spend that much in a hurry on them anyway. The selection will be nice.
I have 9 routers, one of them is 3HP 1/2" Ryobi....a decent tool, given me about 14 years of at least weeky use, so I can say they're a good value. Porter Cable is prolly the standard for mechanics who make their living with the tool, a real workhorse. But if I was starting out, I'd buy the plunge Ryobi and a small laminate trimmer sized one as well, and a pattern makers bit with that $200. Changing routers is easier than bits.
Use a portable handheld powersaw to make those long rips as you described with the clamped straightedge. Not your router. Or use your tablesaw. Tune it up if it's funny, and make a runoff table. A smaller, thin kerf blade will cut easier than the biggest size it takes.
Also check out the local Sears Repair Center for almost new ones at reduced price.
Hi,
A plunge router is nice to have but not necessary. Make your decision on how much you want to spend.
For a router bit all you need is a straight bit 1/4" or 3/8", long enough to go thru the MDF. But don't try to go thru the MDF in one pass. Make approx. 1/4 inch deep cuts otherwise you'll stress your tool & the bit. Also, remember the fatter the bit the more stress is placed on the router.
To rout the recess you'll need a bit as wide as the lip of the speaker, although you could always make multi passes reducing the radius of the cut - the depth of the lip of course.
* Cut out the recess first!*
* Get ear protection so that you'll be able to enjoy that master piece your creating. Routers are extremely noisy. I use the headphone types.
* Get a dust mask and use it. The dust that a router makes in MDF is phenomanal, and you don't want that stuff in your lungs.
As for cutting MDF sheets I would discourage you from using a router. The best approach is to use a straight edge and a circular hand saw. For a blade I would suggest the FREUD DIABLO. It is thin kerf (reducing the stress on both tool and blade) and makes very smooth cuts.
* It's very simple. Actually thinking about it in the abstract is much more difficult than doing it.
* Make a few practice runs on scrap, or at least plan on scrapping a few pieces. i.e., buy more than you need.
* Also, you'll find that you will get excellent results if you let the tool do the work.
Try it, you'll like it.
fred p.
A plunge router is nice to have but not necessary. Make your decision on how much you want to spend.
For a router bit all you need is a straight bit 1/4" or 3/8", long enough to go thru the MDF. But don't try to go thru the MDF in one pass. Make approx. 1/4 inch deep cuts otherwise you'll stress your tool & the bit. Also, remember the fatter the bit the more stress is placed on the router.
To rout the recess you'll need a bit as wide as the lip of the speaker, although you could always make multi passes reducing the radius of the cut - the depth of the lip of course.
* Cut out the recess first!*
* Get ear protection so that you'll be able to enjoy that master piece your creating. Routers are extremely noisy. I use the headphone types.
* Get a dust mask and use it. The dust that a router makes in MDF is phenomanal, and you don't want that stuff in your lungs.
As for cutting MDF sheets I would discourage you from using a router. The best approach is to use a straight edge and a circular hand saw. For a blade I would suggest the FREUD DIABLO. It is thin kerf (reducing the stress on both tool and blade) and makes very smooth cuts.
* It's very simple. Actually thinking about it in the abstract is much more difficult than doing it.
* Make a few practice runs on scrap, or at least plan on scrapping a few pieces. i.e., buy more than you need.
* Also, you'll find that you will get excellent results if you let the tool do the work.
Try it, you'll like it.
fred p.
mazeroth said:
You need a spiral up-cut bit for the circles and flush trim bit (1" length would be good) so you can make box ends over-sized and trim for a perfect fit. Preferably 1/2" shank carbide.
It's nice for cutting circles because you can plunge it to start the cut instead of trying to tip it in.
If your table saw (infeed/outfeed supports are good here) isn't going to work for a long cut your best bet is to make a guide for your circular saw. Get a straight edge (a factory edge of MDF works), screw it to a piece of plywood, 1/4" MDF, etc. that's wider than the saw base, and run the saw along the straight edge. You can line the edge up with your cut-line and not worry about measuring to get the right offset from blade to the edge of the saw base.
If you want a cleaner edge, you can cut slightly over-sized and then use the flush trim bit to clean it up.
Routers are not the best bet for straight cuts.
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