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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Indiana
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This is my first post, and I would first like to thank everyone for the valuable information that I have already read on this forum, and I would like to ask for advanced forgiveness of my igorance on some of the subject matter. But, we all have to start somewhere, so here I go.
This is going to be my first project, and I am open to whatever ideas you guys can throw at me. I'm not stuck on a certain speaker, design, or anything, all I want is a set of speakers that sound good and are the best bang for the buck in my budget. I know these type of design questions have been asked hundreds of times by noob's, and I have read what I could find and just can't figure out what will work best for my room situation. MY OBJECTIVES: design: I would prefer a tried and true design over my own design # of speakers: 3 (left front, center, right front) eventually I would like to add a sub, unless it is not needed speaker configuration: open to ideas budget: under $500 primary usage: 100% movies, 0% music goals: I currently have a $500 sony htib, which to my tastes could be a little bit louder and I have much trouble discerning dialogue on movies (possibly b/c of the shape of my room?) So, I would like to improve on these areas. TECHNICAL DATA: receiver: possibly either a yamaha htr5760 or a pioneer vsx1014tx-k (I haven't ordered one yet, but these are my top two choices because of their auto-calibration) speaker location: all three speakers, will go behind my projector screen (I plan on using either a screen research or a da-lite high contrast cinema perf (both are "acoustically transparent")) They must fit in a space that is 27"h x 52"w, I am somewhat flexible on the depth, but would prefer to be under 12" (again, I am somewhat flexible) room size: I will post some pics with descriptions of my room later in this post, but my total cubic volume (including adjacent hallways and kitchen) is approximately 5600 cu ft main listening area: the area that will be sat in most is 12' away from the speakers and the center of the 27"h opening is approximately 20" above ear level ROOM PIC #1: http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/51a455c...ouqpBBH4.m4DQI This is a side shot of the room from the kitchen side, you can see the open hallway the vaulted ceiling and the hardwood floor PIC #2 http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/51a455c...ouqpBBUTXnOMM7 This is a shot from the screen side of the room, here you can see the odd shape of the room and the plant shelf in the upper right hand corner, along with another open hallway PIC #3 http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/51a455c...YBrpBBdHXEKFn8 Here is a shot showing the kitchen side of the room PIC #4 http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/51a455c...YBrpBBUzlq8DnM This is the shot of where the screen and speakers will be going, there is also a mantle and fireplace I'm getting ready to put in, which will go under the screen Well, I think I've given enough info to get started, let me know if I've left anything out. Just to let you know I have some decent experience in woodworking (not extensive, but I'm willing to give anything a try) and I am a residential electrician so reading schematics should not be a problem, and if I have any trouble putting parts together, my dad was a stereo repair guy for a few years way back, so he should be able to help me. Thanks again. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: NL
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Try full range tangband speakers for the center channel it doesn't cost too much. For your front speakers I suggest to go with some tangband Dayton hybrid. e.g. Dayton reference 8" for the bass and tangband for highs. In that case you have the same sound signature for all and true bass performance as a bonus.
You can put the dayton in a 60-70 l cabinet tuned at 22-25 Hz. Cross-over at 300-800 Hz with a tangband unit. Price indication ~$45/each For the proper tangband unit I would suggest the W3-871S (the one with the metal cone). Price indication ~$25/each Just a suggestion, if you want more extension on top you need to add a tweeter, but with the 3" TB I doubt it.. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi, plan for 5.1 channel and include for future rear left & right as well as sub.
I have seen recommended that all speakers should be full range and not just satellites. This also implies that the peak volume from each speaker should be about the same. This applies especially to dolby surround sound (movies) because the loud bits could come from anywhere. & for best movie sound effect the sub bass should go really low, aim for an octave below music i.e. about 20Hz to 30Hz or lower if quality and budget permit. From your listening distance it appears that the stereo separation is too narrow. Try; listening distance = left & right distance. If your decoder cannot cope with time delays then also try to keep listening distance to all speakers about equal. regards Andrew T. |
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#4 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Indiana
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Quote:
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Indiana
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Any suggestions? Please help!
I forgot to mention in my original post that the speakers will be surrounded by sheetrock on the front, back, and sides. I can leave up to a couple of inches on the top and sides if I need to, but I'm assuming I need a sealed enclosure since there is not much room for venting. Thanks so far for the help, but please, keep it coming. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Eugene, OR
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I have tried several times without success to see the pics but only get an error message. Have others had a problem?
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Indiana
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Sorry Bill and everyone else, I forgot to make the folder public, so nobody could see it but me. It should be fixed now, so let me know if you are still having trouble. Thanks.
And regarding my last post about the sheetrock, I said that wrong. The sheetrock will be in close proximity to the top, back, and sides, not the front, that would be senseless. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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First, will the fireplace be used? I don't know about a projection screen above a fire place.
Second, is the screen permanent or will it retract or roll up? Does it have to be flush with the wall or can it be out from the wall a foot or so? Third, what kind of movies do you like to watch and how loud to you want it to go? Get me these answers and I'll give you some different options. In the meantime, just forget about any boxes to build. Boxes is the main reason you can't understand the dialogue with what you have now.
__________________
Everyone has a photographic memory. It's just that most are out of film. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Eugene, OR
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Still no pix.
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Eugene, OR
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Quote:
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