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-   -   Australians- what solid timbers for baffle? (open baffle loudspeaker) (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/46415-australians-what-solid-timbers-baffle-open-baffle-loudspeaker.html)

tktran 24th November 2004 12:13 AM

Australians- what solid timbers for baffle? (open baffle loudspeaker)
 
Hi,

I'm building the John K NaO, an open baffle dipole loudspeaker.

John uses a 19mm oak baffle in his prototype, and then solid concrete in a 2nd version.

I wonder if anyone has experience with different hardwoods in loudspeaker building. Depending on who I ask, it's bit of a no-go in building box loudspeakers, but I wonder if the same applies to open baffle speakers.

Tassie oak? Jarrah?

chris ma 24th November 2004 12:16 AM

Re: Australians- what solid timbers for baffle? (open baffle loudspeaker)
 
Quote:

Originally posted by tktran
Hi,

I'm building the John K NaO, an open baffle dipole loudspeaker.

John uses a 19mm oak baffle in his prototype, and then solid concrete in a 2nd version.

I wonder if anyone has experience with different hardwoods in loudspeaker building. Depending on who I ask, it's bit of a no-go in building box loudspeakers, but I wonder if the same applies to open baffle speakers.

Tassie oak? Jarrah?

I have heard of there is a kind of tree in your part of the world named HUON. I wonder are those suitable for your project?

The Butcher:D

David Gatti 24th November 2004 01:31 AM

I used Jarrah hardwood on the corners and baffle of my "Vespa" speaker project. Sourced it from Bunnings floorboard supplies - extemely hard and stable timber which I have had no problems with over the last 15 years.
http://www.gattiweb.com/vespa.html

johninCR 24th November 2004 01:43 AM

With OB, use whatever you like. Even wood that had some kind of interesting knots and holes would work. The baffle stores so little energy and doesn't have pressures pushing on it other than the operation of the driver itself, which is why Linkwitz recommends attaching the drivers with a support at the magnet.

HiFiNutNut 24th November 2004 04:36 AM

tktran,

Mine is being built. Initially I wanted to do it myself. I simply didn't have the experience to use a router to trim the edge of the speaker holes to flush mount the drivers, and I couldn't find a carpeter who was happy to do such a small job. Fortunately, I found somebody who were happy to build the whole speaker for me for under $AUD450 including materials and labour OR possibly $650 painted. I gave him the job straight away. It is now 70% completed. He bought some American oak and used thick high quality MDF. The workmanship is not first class but is quite acceptable and I am happy with it. But what do you expect for a few hundred dollars? If you want this guy to build it for you I can give you his contact. It is a bargain even if you include the shipment fee from Sydney to Perth.

Best regards,
Bill

noodle_snacks 24th November 2004 05:47 AM

Chris, Houn pine looks really nice and is quite expensive but is actually not particularly rigid or strong as it is a softwood.

paulspencer 24th November 2004 06:05 AM

I saw some Jarrah in bunnings and as soon as I saw it I was trying to think of a speaker project I could use it for! The idea of an open baffle with hardwood does appeal to me.

I would use approx 19mm thick hardwood, double thickness around the edges and have a fairly large radius on the edges. I would also attach MDF to the rear to make it more solid. 3/4" would just look too think IMO.

Here's a nice example for inspiration

http://www.surfnetusa.com/sho/BBGraphics/Dipole3e.jpg

You could also just use veneer as shown here with this example which still uses curves (in one dimension):

curved veneer dipole

oldbar 24th November 2004 06:47 AM

I am doing my first speaker project and rebuilding some old optimus boxes which to my suprise the mdf was 18mm and i am putting a second layer of mdf for my baffle.I have not done anything with wood for years and this was a good project to start with .
I bought the jasper jig for my holes and it works great made cutting the holes a breeze I am near Foster so buying parts are all mail order for me .I am finding the crossover a hard one to try to work out but i am going to keep at it.

Jonathan Bright 24th November 2004 11:26 AM

In 1997 I was labouring on a bilding site in the Victorian alps (Mt Hotham) and they were using a couple of very hard woods for an external walkway. The only one I remember is called "Tallow wood" ( I think), weighs a ton (dense) and must be very durable as it was in extreme conditions (under snow for 4-5months a year) in a high use area. So if you want rigidity that may be an idea.

tktran 25th November 2004 04:45 PM

Thank you all for the suggestions.

Hifinut,

Thanks for the offer, but I'm going to give his one a go myself.


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