Australians- what solid timbers for baffle? (open baffle loudspeaker) - Page 2

5th element · 25th November 2004, 05:29 PM

Cherry is a good hardwood to use, its closed grain so makes for easy finishing, looks good and is REALLY easy to rout, with no splinters that break off etc. Although it is susceptable to burning when used with power tools, however the burn easily sands away.

jamesj · 29th November 2004, 06:56 AM

The problem with using natural wood is its tendency for movement with humidity changes. Some species will move more than others. Then, the manner in which they are sawn will dictate the direction in which movement will take place. It is best to use kiln-dried, quarter-sawn timber for this application.

My favourite specie is Sapele, which I have used to clad four DIY designs to date. Black American Walnut is also very good, but difficult to match for jointing purposes.

HTH.

James

5th element · 29th November 2004, 10:38 PM

With wood moving due to humidity, its important to make sure that all sides are pretty much equal in their exposure to the outside.

If one side of the wood is exposed to the air and other side side is finished with an air tight polish, then the water in the wood will evapourate faster thru the unfinished side, or absorb water. This WILL cause the wood to warp and loose its shape.

If on the other hand you have clad a speaker with wood the inside of the wood is exposed to MDF which is going to prevent water loss. And then the outside of the wood (which you see) will have a watertight finish on it, so will either completely stop, or greatly reduce water loss. This way the wood stays stable and it should stay in shape.

Brett · 29th November 2004, 11:09 PM

If I was going to build a baffle out of Aussie woods, I'd use Tassie Blackwood. Luvverly.
But if I could afford it, I'd use Wenge or Cocobolo. Or Pau Ferro.

25th November 2004, 05:29 PM	#11
5th element diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: England	Cherry is a good hardwood to use, its closed grain so makes for easy finishing, looks good and is REALLY easy to rout, with no splinters that break off etc. Although it is susceptable to burning when used with power tools, however the burn easily sands away. __________________ What the hell are you screamin' for? Every five minutes there's a bomb or somethin'! I'm leavin! bzzzz! Droggon Attack!

29th November 2004, 10:38 PM	#13
5th element diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: England	With wood moving due to humidity, its important to make sure that all sides are pretty much equal in their exposure to the outside. If one side of the wood is exposed to the air and other side side is finished with an air tight polish, then the water in the wood will evapourate faster thru the unfinished side, or absorb water. This WILL cause the wood to warp and loose its shape. If on the other hand you have clad a speaker with wood the inside of the wood is exposed to MDF which is going to prevent water loss. And then the outside of the wood (which you see) will have a watertight finish on it, so will either completely stop, or greatly reduce water loss. This way the wood stays stable and it should stay in shape. __________________ What the hell are you screamin' for? Every five minutes there's a bomb or somethin'! I'm leavin! bzzzz! Droggon Attack!

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29th November 2004, 06:56 AM	#12
jamesj diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Middle Earth	The problem with using natural wood is its tendency for movement with humidity changes. Some species will move more than others. Then, the manner in which they are sawn will dictate the direction in which movement will take place. It is best to use kiln-dried, quarter-sawn timber for this application. My favourite specie is Sapele, which I have used to clad four DIY designs to date. Black American Walnut is also very good, but difficult to match for jointing purposes. HTH. James

29th November 2004, 11:09 PM	#14
Brett diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002	If I was going to build a baffle out of Aussie woods, I'd use Tassie Blackwood. Luvverly. But if I could afford it, I'd use Wenge or Cocobolo. Or Pau Ferro.

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