A few quick question before glueing the back of my enclosures

mr_push_pull · 18th November 2004, 11:48 AM

OK, I'm hoping to be able to listen to my first DIY loudspeakers with Visaton drivers this Saturday. The boxes are glued, except the back, the holes for the drivers are cut, the crossovers are finished, all I have to do is glue the back, mount the XO board inside, mount the drivers, put the damping material, wire it and pump some amperes into them. Some last few questions that will make me finish the last steps with confidence.

1. Do you leave the wires inside loose or do you tighten them to the inside of the enclosures? I'm thinking about glueing them to the MDF with a few drops of PVAC.
2. How do you fasten the XO inside? Well, if you put it inside, which I will.
3. About the damping. My box is a 2-way, 40 liter, bass-reflex, 1m of height, approx 20x20cm cross-section. I'll use wadding as damping material at start. Generally, how loose does the damping have to be? Of course I'll experiment with the amount I'll put inside, but I want to get a raw notion of how loose or dense does it have to be inside.
4. How do you seal the woofers at the flange? I gather that silicone sealant is OK, but I'm afraid it'll get on the diaphragm.

I'm sorry if these questions sound stupid but I sometimes have difficulties figuring out simple stuff

Like that suggestion someone here gave me, using a tourniquet made of rope for tightening the box when glueing. That was really useful, and I doubt I could've re-invented the method for myself.

tiroth · 18th November 2004, 12:02 PM

No matter what you do, I hope that you close up the back /without/ glue and spend some time listening. You can use clamps if needed, but it will probably be a lot easier to alter stuffing/damping/etc if you can remove the back.

Paul W · 18th November 2004, 12:30 PM

...same for the crossover network. You will want to tweak the xo, so make sure it is accessible without major surgery.

4-way dipoles

David Gatti · 18th November 2004, 10:57 PM

Firstly, congrats on your near project completion.

1. I would leave the wires loose, so that it's easier to install and remove the drivers.

2. I generally "glue" the crossover to the rear or bottom wall using silcon . Keep in mind you may want to remove it later.

3. Damping should be not to tight, not too loose and depends on the material used. You should ensure a clear air path from driver cone to port. Experimentation is the best idea and make sure you give the woofer time to break-in before making any further changes.

4. Seal the woofers using foam insulating tape, which is used for sealing around window frames, etc. Silicon tends to act like glue, is messy and can be hard to remove.
Good luck.
David

www.gattiweb.com

Vikash · 18th November 2004, 11:23 PM

[offtopic]David, just had a look at your construction pics for the Delta design. Inspiring

[/offtopic]

David Gatti · 19th November 2004, 04:06 AM

Thanks. Progress has been slow lately, but should pick up again soon

18th November 2004, 11:48 AM	#1
mr_push_pull diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: At the output stage	A few quick question before glueing the back of my enclosures OK, I'm hoping to be able to listen to my first DIY loudspeakers with Visaton drivers this Saturday. The boxes are glued, except the back, the holes for the drivers are cut, the crossovers are finished, all I have to do is glue the back, mount the XO board inside, mount the drivers, put the damping material, wire it and pump some amperes into them. Some last few questions that will make me finish the last steps with confidence. 1. Do you leave the wires inside loose or do you tighten them to the inside of the enclosures? I'm thinking about glueing them to the MDF with a few drops of PVAC. 2. How do you fasten the XO inside? Well, if you put it inside, which I will. 3. About the damping. My box is a 2-way, 40 liter, bass-reflex, 1m of height, approx 20x20cm cross-section. I'll use wadding as damping material at start. Generally, how loose does the damping have to be? Of course I'll experiment with the amount I'll put inside, but I want to get a raw notion of how loose or dense does it have to be inside. 4. How do you seal the woofers at the flange? I gather that silicone sealant is OK, but I'm afraid it'll get on the diaphragm. I'm sorry if these questions sound stupid but I sometimes have difficulties figuring out simple stuff Like that suggestion someone here gave me, using a tourniquet made of rope for tightening the box when glueing. That was really useful, and I doubt I could've re-invented the method for myself. __________________ "This site gives off very confusing signals, one minute highly technical discussions that leave the truly interested learners wallowing in their own stupidity and the next finds it endlessly repeating old wives tales and cockeyed theories as fact."

18th November 2004, 11:23 PM	#5
Vikash diyAudio Moderator Emeritus Join Date: May 2003 Location: UK	[offtopic]David, just had a look at your construction pics for the Delta design. Inspiring [/offtopic] __________________ "The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.)

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18th November 2004, 12:02 PM	#2
tiroth diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA	No matter what you do, I hope that you close up the back /without/ glue and spend some time listening. You can use clamps if needed, but it will probably be a lot easier to alter stuffing/damping/etc if you can remove the back.

18th November 2004, 12:30 PM	#3
Paul W diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: North Georgia	...same for the crossover network. You will want to tweak the xo, so make sure it is accessible without major surgery. 4-way dipoles

18th November 2004, 10:57 PM	#4
David Gatti diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia	Firstly, congrats on your near project completion. 1. I would leave the wires loose, so that it's easier to install and remove the drivers. 2. I generally "glue" the crossover to the rear or bottom wall using silcon . Keep in mind you may want to remove it later. 3. Damping should be not to tight, not too loose and depends on the material used. You should ensure a clear air path from driver cone to port. Experimentation is the best idea and make sure you give the woofer time to break-in before making any further changes. 4. Seal the woofers using foam insulating tape, which is used for sealing around window frames, etc. Silicon tends to act like glue, is messy and can be hard to remove. Good luck. David www.gattiweb.com

19th November 2004, 04:06 AM	#6
David Gatti diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia	Thanks. Progress has been slow lately, but should pick up again soon

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