Founteks,Scanspeak 9500,or Northcreek 28s

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I'm in the middle of planning and gathering the drivers and xover parts to build my next speaker, a MTMWW. The plan is to build a 3 way with the tweeter/mids crossed passiveley and the woofers crossed active. The drivers I already have are:

Mids: four Vifa p13s
Woofers: four Peerles CSX10s


I was thinking of just using the 9500s for the tweeter but I fondly remember how much I liked the sparkle of ribbons I heard in some of Infinity's speakers that used ribbons back in the 80s. I haven't heard any of these tweeters ..so I was wondering what opnions some of you that have actually heard these drivers might suggest.

Also is anyone aware of any crossovers out there for the Founteks? Say for around 3-4K?



Thx
 
jomor said:
@Navin: Hi, any info on your scanspeak project ? Pics, technical details ? I m planning a TMM with 8546 and 9700 and i m interested in your opinion. How did you find the 8546 ? Thanks in advance, Yannis

my system is a 8546-9900 MTM. The 8546-9500 system I built for a freind who has since moved out of town.

the 8546 has it's problems but is wonderful upto 1500Hz. Above that there are better drivers (esp today).

I can given you the XO of my MTM but the MT crossover has gone with the system.
 
I have JP3s. The advice on Founteks is not to cross them low unless you use a high order of xover. I use a first order at 6.3k with Jordan JX92s and they are OK but I have been warned not to turn the volume up too much!

There's some info and a xover diagram at
http://www.d-s-t.com.au/Ventura/RibbonTweeter.htm

Madisound have them at a 25% discount "while supplies last"

There's also a web page on changing the ribbons at
home1.stofanet.dk/troels.gravesen/
 
navin said:

the 8546 has it's problems but is wonderful upto 1500Hz. Above that there are better drivers (esp today).

I can given you the XO of my MTM but the MT crossover has gone with the system.

What problems do you mean ? The spl bump above that frequency ? I planning to use a notch filter about that. I m quite interested to see your design, you can email me any info at [email removed] but also to hear your personal review on how it sounds

thanks a lot

Yannis


@kestrel200 : my apologies if i hijacked your thread
 
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8546/JP3

kestrel200: Jp3 advice

Assuming you are using the p13mh in a 2 parallel 2series setup, you will not have to pad the ribbon tweeter which is good.

Also, If you ever decide to experiment with an active cross for the tweeter/mid(easier higher order,no padding, and easier experimentation, which I all prefer) you still need a passive blocking cap for a ribbon.


Navin: Can you elaborate on what problems the 8546 had, I am looking to use that woofer with a 2-2.3KHz 4th order L+R. Were the problems just in the 1500hz and up range? Can you name your midwoofer choice and why you think it is better than the 8546? (same price range)

Some background:

I am currently looking at the 8546, eton 7-372, and the Seas w18ex. I orignally favored the w18ex and the eton primarily because of a bias against kevlar woofers, but a lot of people claim the w18ex has weak bass and that the SS unit was very good. (planning a 2-way active MTM with no sub)

The tweeters I am looking at are the 9500, MDT33, and the Morel Supreme 110. I have pretty much found conflicting recommendations and probably will go with the cheapest (9500). the supreme's frequency response seems to decline at 3khz which concerns me in a 2way. If I did a three way I would probably use a ribbon.


Thanks,

mike
 
Re: 8546/JP3

jomor said:
What problems do you mean ? The spl bump above that frequency ?

yup. i got around that by using that bump. i started my roll off at 1500hz and the roll of got steeper after 2000Hz. i will get you the X) once I get back into town. I am out this week. But my Xo was designed using LSPcad lite and a lot of listening. my system is a WW MTM using 2 12", 2 8546 and a 9900. the XO points are 60/80hz, and 1500/2500hz.

when you are building a system using such expensive drivers such as these you have to build the XO for each driver. so u have to look at the curves of the driver and build the Xo around it. i took the hump as a blessing. if i XOed a bit below the hump the hump would actually extend the range of the 8546 to a point where the 9900 could be XOed with little strain on it fragile voice coil. the 9900 does NOT have ferro fluid to protect against thermal overload and to act as a damper.

Both my LP and HP slopes were sort of 2nd order. as mentioned above I will give you the XO design as soon as i get back in town. u can bug me via email if i forget.

BTW I built but did not use the LRC notch filter suggested to be used with the 9900. reason: I could not hear a difference. also with a 2nd order at about 2500hz the signal would be about 30db down at 500Hz and i used a simple 15ohm parallel resistor to damp the impedance curve.

a lot of the XO components i used to taste.


mbutzkies said:
Navin: Can you elaborate on what problems the 8546 had, I am looking to use that woofer with a 2-2.3KHz 4th order L+R.The tweeters I am looking at are the 9500, MDT33, and the Morel Supreme 110.

Of these I have used the MDT33 and 9500. Albeit I used the MDT33 in 1987-88. The 33 has more sensitivity than the 9500 but my version is a bit lispy - i hear later versions have corrected that. the 9500 i consider (like the founteks which i have not heard) to be great VFM and very flexible.
 
Ok! I finalized the drivers for the MTMWW i'm going to build. They are:

Tweeter: Morel MDT33
Mids: Vifa WH13s
Woofer: Peerless CSX 10s


As I said before I'm going to bi-amp them. So a couple of questions?

Does anyone have any experince with these active crossovers?

http://www.snippets.org/filters/crossover.htm
or
http://sound.westhost.com/project09.htm

If you have how do they sound and what was the final cost?


Second question: has anyone built a large floor standing speaker like this using either an Aperiodic vent design or an Isobarik design? If so how do you think these designs compare to a closed box? My goal is to keep the enclsure less than 2.4 cu. ft. or roughly 68ltrs. i would very much appreciate hearing your suggestions.


thx
Mike
 
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