[One problem I think I might have is I don't have any test equipment, I know I can download something, and build a mic too. I just haven't gotten to it, and dont really want to but I am going to because I understand it is needed.]
I use a Radio Shack Decibel Meter. It's not completely accurate but with this chart supplied by andrikos it can be;
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/...982372dec851ea4a8b640b&include=view_photo.php
Check out his line array;
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Similar to mine but different drivers. Also, a test disc #2 by Stereophile that can be bought from PE...
[As I mentioned earlier, my first speaker is a cc, and I would like to put the passive inside the speaker, but I'm afraid I wont be able to reach it or get it out to change it. So I think I might have an external crossover bolted on the back of the center channel, is that arlight?]
My crossovers right now are just hanging on the bolts for the tweeters and woofers. Later I'll just use my hot glue gun to hold them on back a little better and neater.
[Is it okay to have an external passive crossover?]
It's OK!!!
[Also when building a crossover, should I buy other caps, and resistors just to see how they sound? And is there a way to test a massive before soddering it?]
Yes, I buy a bunch of electrolytic caps (cheap), a bunch of Dayton resistors in 1,2,3,4 & 8 ohm values. Series or parallel them to get the half values.
The coils I get are the 20 & 18 guage - they're cheaper than the big coils and a few iron core coils for the big values.
I didn't buy these all at once. It was spread out over time.
Then when I decide it's right I'll buy the better caps and coils.
This is a hobby after all. I'm not in it for the mostest at the cheapest
....
I also use wire nuts for the test crossovers. These are plastic cones with metal inside that are used for electrical wiring. They'll hold the components very well and are just as easy to remove.
I just started on my new project. An MTM and my bag of parts have come in real handy. I can slide up and down most of the frequency range with what I got.
The hard part in crossover design shouldn't really be called HARD.
It's just when you pick a value you test it and listen to it over a period of time. If you don't like a certain sound in a frequency band or octave - then you have the option to change it or go online and ask for assitance..
Even with chip amps you may need a passive impedence correcting circuit to tame the driver.
I use a Radio Shack Decibel Meter. It's not completely accurate but with this chart supplied by andrikos it can be;
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/...982372dec851ea4a8b640b&include=view_photo.php
Check out his line array;
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Similar to mine but different drivers. Also, a test disc #2 by Stereophile that can be bought from PE...
[As I mentioned earlier, my first speaker is a cc, and I would like to put the passive inside the speaker, but I'm afraid I wont be able to reach it or get it out to change it. So I think I might have an external crossover bolted on the back of the center channel, is that arlight?]
My crossovers right now are just hanging on the bolts for the tweeters and woofers. Later I'll just use my hot glue gun to hold them on back a little better and neater.
[Is it okay to have an external passive crossover?]
It's OK!!!
[Also when building a crossover, should I buy other caps, and resistors just to see how they sound? And is there a way to test a massive before soddering it?]
Yes, I buy a bunch of electrolytic caps (cheap), a bunch of Dayton resistors in 1,2,3,4 & 8 ohm values. Series or parallel them to get the half values.
The coils I get are the 20 & 18 guage - they're cheaper than the big coils and a few iron core coils for the big values.
I didn't buy these all at once. It was spread out over time.
Then when I decide it's right I'll buy the better caps and coils.
This is a hobby after all. I'm not in it for the mostest at the cheapest
....I also use wire nuts for the test crossovers. These are plastic cones with metal inside that are used for electrical wiring. They'll hold the components very well and are just as easy to remove.
I just started on my new project. An MTM and my bag of parts have come in real handy. I can slide up and down most of the frequency range with what I got.
The hard part in crossover design shouldn't really be called HARD.
It's just when you pick a value you test it and listen to it over a period of time. If you don't like a certain sound in a frequency band or octave - then you have the option to change it or go online and ask for assitance..
Even with chip amps you may need a passive impedence correcting circuit to tame the driver.
You use a radioshack decibel meter to help choose a crossover frequency? What do you use to make test tones?
Are foil inductors better than air inductors?
What types of caps do you use? Metallized? Film and Foil? or non-polar?
What types of resistors?
This is really random, but when burning cd's which cd's are easiest for burners to focus on and sound the best. My brother is a musician and when his band records albums they use tdk and try to stay away from sony. What cds are best to burn on?
Thanks,
Josh
Are foil inductors better than air inductors?
What types of caps do you use? Metallized? Film and Foil? or non-polar?
What types of resistors?
This is really random, but when burning cd's which cd's are easiest for burners to focus on and sound the best. My brother is a musician and when his band records albums they use tdk and try to stay away from sony. What cds are best to burn on?
Thanks,
Josh
You use a radioshack decibel meter to help choose a crossover frequency? What do you use to make test tones?
It helps to locate peaks and dips...
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=510-232
Are foil inductors better than air inductors?
Yes, but they're more expensive & I 've never used any.
The most expensive ones I've bought were 15 guage air-core.
What types of caps do you use? Metallized? Film and Foil? or non-polar?
Solen Metalized in the tweeter curcuit & electrolytics in the woofer circuit.
What types of resistors? Dayton Sandcast
This is really random, but when burning cd's which cd's are easiest for burners to focus on and sound the best. My brother is a musician and when his band records albums they use tdk and try to stay away from sony. What cds are best to burn on?
Depends on who TDK buys them from. They may buy them from Ritek and put there own label on them
I buy mine from;
http://meritline.com/
Usually Ritek. I have bought Sony from them and they played well also...
It helps to locate peaks and dips...
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=510-232
Are foil inductors better than air inductors?
Yes, but they're more expensive & I 've never used any.
The most expensive ones I've bought were 15 guage air-core.
What types of caps do you use? Metallized? Film and Foil? or non-polar?
Solen Metalized in the tweeter curcuit & electrolytics in the woofer circuit.
What types of resistors? Dayton Sandcast
This is really random, but when burning cd's which cd's are easiest for burners to focus on and sound the best. My brother is a musician and when his band records albums they use tdk and try to stay away from sony. What cds are best to burn on?
Depends on who TDK buys them from. They may buy them from Ritek and put there own label on them
I buy mine from;
http://meritline.com/
Usually Ritek. I have bought Sony from them and they played well also...
Well my birthday and Chanukah are coming up and I am going to probably ask for tools. And will purchase tools. The 2 things that I am looking at is a cheap BUT good table saw, and something to help me flushmount speakers and make good speaker cut outs. I'm guessing the best is a router, but can a dremmel or a roto zip do it and be cheaper? I bought the cheap roto zip a few months ago to help make good circles, but since it was the cheap one and had no speed adjustment not only did it burn the wood, but it burned the bit and actually melted half of it off.
One thing that is important to me is a good rail on the table saw, I built a box and my friend's dads shop and he has like Grizzly equipment I think it was, very nice, but a friend of mine has a cheap $100 table saw and the rail doesnt stay straight, you can push the front to the right, and the back to the right.
Also table saw must be very inexpensive, definately less the $300 hoping less than $200, but will add $30 or so for a much better saw.
Thanks,
Josh
One thing that is important to me is a good rail on the table saw, I built a box and my friend's dads shop and he has like Grizzly equipment I think it was, very nice, but a friend of mine has a cheap $100 table saw and the rail doesnt stay straight, you can push the front to the right, and the back to the right.
Also table saw must be very inexpensive, definately less the $300 hoping less than $200, but will add $30 or so for a much better saw.
Thanks,
Josh
Ryobi BT3100
A router with plunge attachement and circle jig is a great way to get consistently good and accurate holes and rabbets. A router will also allow you to do roundovers and flush trim.
A router with plunge attachement and circle jig is a great way to get consistently good and accurate holes and rabbets. A router will also allow you to do roundovers and flush trim.
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