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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 6th November 2004, 12:23 AM   #11
RJ is offline RJ  United States
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Here are 2 sites on crossovers:
http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/...rossovers.html
http://www.lalena.com/audio/
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Old 6th November 2004, 08:50 PM   #12
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It looks to me like a 2nd order crossover is pretty easy, but what is the difference between a Linkwitz-Riley and a Butterworth?

Does a Linkwitz - Riley crossover have a less steep slope?

And is this right, Linkwitz-Riley are even order, and Butterworth is odd order.

Some websites seem to disagree with that.

Thanks,

Josh
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Old 7th November 2004, 12:26 AM   #13
RJ is offline RJ  United States
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It looks to me like a 2nd order crossover is pretty easy, but what is the difference between a Linkwitz-Riley and a Butterworth?

The Slope...

Does a Linkwitz - Riley crossover have a less steep slope?

It has the steepest...

And is this right, Linkwitz-Riley are even order, and Butterworth is odd order.

Nope. Butterworth is in 1,2,3 & 4th order
L-R is in 2nd, 4th & 6th...

Some websites seem to disagree with that.

Send them Here;
http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/...rossovers.html
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Old 8th November 2004, 12:28 AM   #14
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On my other thread they recomend me doing active crossovers? I understand some of the benefits, but I am kind of confused about that subject.

What do you all recomend?

Do many people here use equalizers? Or are equalizers to make up for subpar drivers?

Thanks,

Josh
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Old 8th November 2004, 02:52 AM   #15
RJ is offline RJ  United States
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Active crossovers don't have phase shift problems like passive ones.
The only problem with active crossovers is the slope is preset.
Some drivers crossover better with 12 db slopes others with 24 db slopes.
Softer cone drivers like 12 db slopes - hard cone drivers need 24 db slopes because of harsh & intense breakup nodes at 2 to 4 khz.
Here's an active crossover for you to study;
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/...se_pid/183703/

Frequency equalizers help you adjust the sound to your enviroment.
I just ordered this unit;
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/...se_pid/183702/

I have a peak at 500 hz, a dip at 650 hz, and a peak at 800 hz.
due to room acoustics. I could smooth this out with a passive filter trap. A LCR - coil, capacitor & resistor. If I do I might have to readjust my crossover point since the added components will alter the total impedence.
I will someday purchase an active crossover unit. After adding up the cost of my passive components, especially the coils.
As you can see on this chart;
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ID=197#15gauge
The DCR values for these coils will add resistance to your woofer circuit and lower the sensitivity of the speakers. The total cost of my crossovers isn't to far from purchasing an active unit and I could have reaped the benefits. No phase shift, no restance & no altered impedence.
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Old 8th November 2004, 05:48 AM   #16
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Thanks RJ, I'm guessing the cross coil inductors are better than air core inductors?

Do I choose the awg just on how many watts my amp will be pushing to the speakers?

Are these so that a tv does not have to be degaused, or is this to canel a speaker magnet and repolarize?
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....filter=ferrite

Thanks,

Josh
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Old 8th November 2004, 12:50 PM   #17
RJ is offline RJ  United States
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These are bucking magnets. They're used to cancel stray magnetic fields from interferirng with the tv tube.
Get the size that'll match the closest to the speaker magnet size. Not the exact size - just under the speaker magnet size. I bought they're recommended size and it was too small. What you want to do is install them so the two magnets repel each other.
Put crazy glue on the magnet and hold them together till it drys.
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Old 10th November 2004, 05:33 AM   #18
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how can using a different farad caps change a sound stage?
http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_fi...xo/xoconst.htm

And in his how does changing a resistor make his tweeter "sparkle", would it mean that his tweeter would get a little more power and would sound a little better?

Also would changing the resister change the speaker load?

Thanks,

Josh
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Old 10th November 2004, 02:30 PM   #19
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I can't comment on Wayne Jaeschke's design of the Eros III, but I can relate to it. My first crossover for my line-arrays were 3rd order Butterworth. They didn't sound too good. The sound from midrange & tweeters were seperate. When I ran a test signal that crossed over at my setpoint (2500 hz.) I could hear the test tone seperate. I than tried 4th order crossovers, Butterworth, Linkwietz-Riley & Bessel...

I ended up using the 4th order Bessel. Now you can't hear the seperation and the imaging became tighter. In other words the music sounds like it only comes from one speaker. I have 16 per side!!!

I guess it's the anomilies of each speaker driver, driver spacing, baffle width,baffle step compensation, acoustic rolloff rates, crossover point, acoustic rolloff shapes, transfer function shapes, impedance phase angle, driver phase tracking....

Anyway he also said it took him 3 months. It took me 4 months because I had to dig into or get info from other designers on their crossover's.

When I first started building my speakers they said the crossover would be the hardest part and now I believe them.
It was fun. A learning procedure for sure.....
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Old 11th November 2004, 02:16 AM   #20
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Everyone has said how hard it is, and I think it going to be hard, but I really dont know how hard since I've never done it.

One problem I think I might have is I don't have any test equipment, I know I can download something, and build a mic too. I just haven't gotten to it, and dont really want to but I am going to because I understand it is needed.

As I mentioned earlier, my first speaker is a cc, and I would like to put the passive inside the speaker, but I'm afraid I wont be able to reach it or get it out to change it. So I think I might have an external crossover bolted on the back of the center channel, is that arlight?

The towers that I would like to make, probably about 5 months away, I'm going to go external passive, until I build some chip amps and make an active crossover.

Is it okay to have an external passive crossover?

Also when building a crossover, should I buy other caps, and resistors just to see how they sound? And is there a way to test a massive before soddering it?

Thanks,

Josh
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