Here is a couple more.
I used scanspeak ss9500, vifa pl18wo and scanspeak 8565-01 woofers. My cabinets are made out of 1" mdf all the way around. The bevel? is a 45degree cut and it leaves about 1/4" space between the bevel line and the butt joint (going by the looks of it). I had a cabinetmaker finish them, as my previous attempt at spray painting was mediocre.
Wow, these are really beautiful! Coupla questions: How did you secure the butt joints? Did you use screws, dowels, or ? As Ahak was wondering, what type of box? What design are you using for the srossover? Finally, where did you purchase your speakers? Thanks and congrats on a great looking set of speakers.
jchappj
jchappj
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Joined 2003
I went with sealed cabinets for both mids and woofers. I used many clamps and titebond glue to put the cabinets together. Mid cabinet has one vertical brace, woofer cabinets have two braces (in the upside down "T" form). Top cabinet is about 20 liters, bottom is 60 liters, minus bracing/drivers + light stuffing.
I have purchased all of the drivers from partsexpress.com, and one of the 8565-01 drivers fixed by madisound.com with a factory full recone kit. I was working on my diy p3a amplifier and made a mistake , which is turn burned the driver. I think the recone kit was about half the price of the driver.
Finally, crossover is a simple 2nd order between the mid and tweeter at 2k with a lpad on the tweeter. Woofer is also 2nd order lowpass at 120-200hz (I would need to look at the values again to make sure). I let the mid cabinet roll off naturally, I can still play them very loud w/o much audible mid distortion, but i'll eventually highpass the midwoofer also.
Mazeroth, I had a cabinet maker make the cuts and then I assembled them and sanded them down. I lived with that for a long time and finally had a chance to get them finished. I wanted to finish them all in veneer but the price quote was very expensive, partially due to the fact that I didn't want to have flat surfaces. I ended up with just a satin black finish, and it took the cabinetmaker almost a full day of work to get them finished. Figure at $70 an hour, but I only paid $300 since I always go to the same guy to purchase MDF and have cuts done.
Jean
I have purchased all of the drivers from partsexpress.com, and one of the 8565-01 drivers fixed by madisound.com with a factory full recone kit. I was working on my diy p3a amplifier and made a mistake , which is turn burned the driver. I think the recone kit was about half the price of the driver.
Finally, crossover is a simple 2nd order between the mid and tweeter at 2k with a lpad on the tweeter. Woofer is also 2nd order lowpass at 120-200hz (I would need to look at the values again to make sure). I let the mid cabinet roll off naturally, I can still play them very loud w/o much audible mid distortion, but i'll eventually highpass the midwoofer also.
Mazeroth, I had a cabinet maker make the cuts and then I assembled them and sanded them down. I lived with that for a long time and finally had a chance to get them finished. I wanted to finish them all in veneer but the price quote was very expensive, partially due to the fact that I didn't want to have flat surfaces. I ended up with just a satin black finish, and it took the cabinetmaker almost a full day of work to get them finished. Figure at $70 an hour, but I only paid $300 since I always go to the same guy to purchase MDF and have cuts done.
Jean
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