I've tried several crossovers using these two drivers in a .5 cubic ft rear vented box. I always end up with a bright and forward sounding speaker when using xovers that model well on paper. Things end up very detailed (good thing), just too unnatural sounding (bad thing). Believe it or not, the xover I've liked the best was a 1st order .47mh on woofer and 6 uf cap on the tweeter with a 7 db l-pad on the the tweeter. It sounded fat and full of life with laid-back vocals and highs while maintaining most of the detail. However at mid to high volumes things got nasty sounding. I'm assuming this is mostly due to a struggling tweeter. Any advice would be a great help. Please feel free to post or email me directly.
IB
IB
Even using a 1st order the tweeter should not be struggling as it has a very low Fs. 7dB on the L-pad sounds too much and should require about 4dB IMO.
When calculating the xo values use the actual impedance at the crossover frequency and not the nominal value. A measured impedance is best if you have the measuring gear but the manufacturers graph would give a better value than the nominal and a good starting point. For example, 1st order at 3000Hz xo, the tweeter is 5.3ohm and the woofer is 12.6ohm from the manufacturers graphs which would give 10uF on the tweeter and 0.67mH on the woofer.
You could search around for xo's for the same drivers and try that. If you can't find any try an assymetrical crossover with a 1st order on the woofer at 3000Hz and a 2nd order on the tweeter at 3400Hz as these usually work well IMO.
A quick calc gives approx
Woofer 1st order: 0.66mH
Tweeter 2nd order: 4.4uF + 0.5mH (LR) or 6.2uF + 0.35mH (BW)
But with all crossovers, 5% calculation, 95% testing and fine tuning. Have fun and if you're game can always try a series xo.
When calculating the xo values use the actual impedance at the crossover frequency and not the nominal value. A measured impedance is best if you have the measuring gear but the manufacturers graph would give a better value than the nominal and a good starting point. For example, 1st order at 3000Hz xo, the tweeter is 5.3ohm and the woofer is 12.6ohm from the manufacturers graphs which would give 10uF on the tweeter and 0.67mH on the woofer.
You could search around for xo's for the same drivers and try that. If you can't find any try an assymetrical crossover with a 1st order on the woofer at 3000Hz and a 2nd order on the tweeter at 3400Hz as these usually work well IMO.
A quick calc gives approx
Woofer 1st order: 0.66mH
Tweeter 2nd order: 4.4uF + 0.5mH (LR) or 6.2uF + 0.35mH (BW)
But with all crossovers, 5% calculation, 95% testing and fine tuning. Have fun and if you're game can always try a series xo.
heres a speaker with that woofer.
http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Projects/peecreek/pcrkmain.htm
http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Projects/peecreek/pcrkmain.htm
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.