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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Doerun, GA
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kfr01:
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If the idea irks you, consider that any crossover for home or pro use would have a DC power supply inside anyway. Here are a couple I found with a brief search: Image Dynamics This one has a pair of 3-way outputs, and a pair of 2-way outputs in one unit. H/K And one other, simpler option is the Harrison F-Mod. They have other unconventional solutions, and respond to email favorably... Tim |
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#12 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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I notice some assumptions coming up here that are not necessarily always true:
* home audio equipment is more hifi than car audio (probably true most of the time, but this is not automatically true of all car audio equipment) * PA equipment isn't as hifi as home audio * passive crossovers are more hifi than digital crossovers (I doubt this is true) Many in the audio industry take advantage of assumptions and perceptions, and diyers are at a big advantage if we see through the myths and assumptions. Quote:
Newform Research come to mind. Newform also recommend a unit by an Australian company called Clarity Eq - DEQX (also has a preamp version). It is more expensive but you can buy reconditioned units which are cheaper and they include a digital crossover as well as room correction. Very sophisticated. I suspect comments like "universal active crossovers should be ignored" may not apply to units like these. They are very powerful and have a range of filters that can be employed. My suggestion: 1. get a digital active xo 2. use it to run your front speakers (1 unit) 3. use it to design analogue active filters for your remaining speakers Quote:
Don Mauer has done work on digital crossovers for a Phoenix system: http://home.pacbell.net/donwm/ Quote:
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AUDIO BLOG | Bass integration guide My work: www.redspade.com.au web design studio |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Locked Up In The Amp Rack
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Quote:
I would get two 4 way Stereo Analog Crossovers on Ebay. Use each device 6 way mono, thus, making 6 way Stereo. ![]() OR, Method 2 Get one 3 way Stereo Analog Crossover, and, one 2 way Stereo Analog Crossover. (Same Brands) Y the output of your preamp, and, you'll have 3 way stereo for your mains, and, 2 way stereo for your rears, with the master control from your preamp. You would only need a Y Adaptor, if your Preamp offers only one set of preamp outputs. Actually, you can by two Behringer Ultradrives, and, follow method 2 if you want to go the digital route. Complex Connections, I'm A Wiz At That!
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#14 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
I was telling you that or you have an active crossover for your speakers, or you DIY one. I'm not so convinced about generic active crossovers. And no, you can't have the same sound in a car that you can have in your room. Sorry, but that's how it is. A car doesn't have the phisical conditions like a room has. Ultimately, on a car it seams that you are inside the speaker. |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Central FL
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I'm not sure it will help you any but a great source for active crossover components is http://www.marchandelec.com
They have many selectable and customizable x-over setups.Good luck |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Quote:
Will any of these options work if the goal of the system is home theater with a 5.1 setup? Not saying you're wrong at all, just I don't understand how you are going to get 5 discrete channels from this method, please explain. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Locked Up In The Amp Rack
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The poster mentioned Tri - Amping. So, he will need to
have muiltpile amplifiers to achieve Tri-Amping. So, for his requirements: Mains Tri-Amped One Amplifier For The Lows One Amplifier For The Mids One Amplifier For The Highs Rear Bi-Amped One Amplifier For The Low/Mid One Amplifier For The Mid/Highs The processor (decoder) should give you a mains out, and, a rears out. So....... 3 way Crossover for the Mains 2 way Crossover for the Rears You use the processor (decoder) as the master to manipulate the sound. I'm guessing he didn't count the fifth channel, due to being a subwoofer, and, he already has it covered.
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
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I think the problem is there really aren't any digital crossovers/equalizers designed to be used in a 5.1/6.1 environment available for home/pro audio. Taking that car unit and using it with a DC supply is an interesting idea, but I think for around the same price you could get two Behringer Ultradrive 2496 units, use one for triamping the main speakers, and the other for biamping your center and two surrounds. This bumps you up into the $800 range, and for the other $200 you could buy a nice reciever to do your decoding of DD/DTS and input switching. This is the only solution I know of that comes close to doing what you want.
---- Edit ---- My response was assuming that a digital active crossover with EQ was required, this can be more painless is you are willing to go with an analog active crossover. Get three Behringer CX3400's and you'd have the ability to 3-way active cross 6 speakers. 3 of these run ~$400, approximately half of what 2 Ultradrives cost. Same story with the reciever to decode, except you can do it this way for about $600 instead of $1000. Sub-note and you can take this how you wish: Active crossing your main speakers would be highly recommended, active crossing your center channel would be nice, and active crossing the surround channels would be (IMHO) a large amount of extra effort for low return. Any time I've done something to upgrade my surround channels I've always been a bit disappointed, I just don't think you notice additionaly clairity very much in those channels. Anyway, just my opinion. |
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#19 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Quote:
I think Behringer units look more powerful and cost effective, however. You may wish to look for HT receivers which have pre-outs AND main in connections. Pre out is an output from the preamp. Main in is a line level source to the power amp for each channel. You have to spend a bit more to get this feature, but it means that you can use eq and active crossovers in between the pre and power amps as well as still use the existing power amps of the receiver. This will help keep costs down. Suppose you wanted to take some load of the power amps in the receiver you could use them for the tweeters, which don't require much power. Alternatively, you could use them for the midbass, then build low power chip amps for the tweeters.
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AUDIO BLOG | Bass integration guide My work: www.redspade.com.au web design studio |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
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Preouts are definately a must. I don't know of any recievers with main-inputs, but this would certainly be a great feature to have. I've got a feeling it would bump your price up significantly. I've been using a Yamaha RX-V650 for my preamp and I've got to say I really like it. It can be had for around $300 (maybe $250?). Great unit. Behringer is about as cheap as it gets (price-wise) for pro-audio tools like active crossovers and equalizers and I've heard they are of decent quality too, so I'd check them out first for your processing needs.
As for amplification, this seems perfect for a multi-channel LM3875 (or similar) amp, but thats another DIY project in itself. Whatever solution you find, I'd be interested to know the results. |
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