Humble low cost computer monitor system...driver specs are killing me!

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I am in the process of deciding on drivers for a small computer monitor type + sub system that i will be building soon for my brother.

Cost is a problem since i am doing it for him as a favor + experience/fun for me :)
So it needs not to cost much.

Now here i stand with 2 choices after reading and reading on this great forum.

Either small 1 way sealed enclosures array + a < 200hz sub

OR

Dipole array ( OB ) 1 way + sealed sub

Then the same problem comes to me.

HOW TO LOOK FOR DRIVERS!!! :(

I have read and reread the meanings of the T/S parameters for the drivers, but i still CANNOT precisly determine what i need
as far as specs.

Everyone speaks about the Q, and that it should be higher to get better response from the driver at it's FS or the baffle FS ...
what is high ? is their some forumlas for that?

what about other parameters? what to look for?
what is less important?

then considering the 2 different type of loudpseaker i proposed,
i was looking at the http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-806

TANG BAND W2-880SA 2" SHIELDED DRIVER

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


wide band cone driver from PE ..
the response seems fairly good up to 17-18k wich is more than enough for the use ( computer sound, dvd and video games in a really small room )

i think that 3-4 of them on each side would be good.


would this unit be enough for a full range system ?
should i go with a bigger unit? 3" ? 4" ?


i wanted to have it crossed at maybe 300-400 range ..since it starts going down by itself in that range, wouldn't need much of a steep xo to have it terminated quickly

the rest of the bottom octaves would be taken care of with a
simple sealed bipolar 8" sub ? 8" should be more than enough
he doens't need anything under 50hz neway so ...


If you can suggest any links to learn on how to decipher the T/S parameters , or have any suggestion on the design type and drivers ... :)


also good links to basics of XO electrics would be nice :)
( i need really simple stuff..don't really need any correction here )
 
Might want to try getting this book.
Great Sound Stereo Speaker Manual: With Computer-aided Design Projects
or
Designing, Building, and Testing Your Own Speaker System with Projects: both by David Weems. Not overly technical and will help you build successfull speakers. Not great speakers, just good sounding basic stuff.

Neither book is very expensive about $15 on Amazon.com.

Prosit
 
There is a small vented enclosure for the W3-871S also. Assuming 3/4" material; 6.5"W x 7.5"H x 7.25" D.
Vent = 1" x 1"
No electronics needed.
This will get you decent response to a level where it's easy to add a sub. Power handling will not be as good as a sealed enclosure. I use a pair of these at work and they sound pretty good.
 
There is a small vented enclosure for the W3-871S also. Assuming 3/4" material; 6.5"W x 7.5"H x 7.25" D.
Vent = 1" x 1" .
Tuned to like 85Hz?
No electronics needed.
You mean without notch filter to get down the midrange?

I´m working on a ML-TL with a 6,5" and one TBW3-871S with a 8,5" wide baffle. Do you think I can use the notch filter from John´s audio pages (I know it´s mainly BSC) to get midrange down.
The system sounds nice but with some records the TB sounds a bit like a trumpet.
http://img52.exs.cx/img52/2679/100_1916copy.jpg

Cheers
 
joensd said:

Tuned to like 85Hz?

You mean without notch filter to get down the midrange?

I´m working on a ML-TL with a 6,5" and one TBW3-871S with a 8,5" wide baffle. Do you think I can use the notch filter from John´s audio pages (I know it´s mainly BSC) to get midrange down.
The system sounds nice but with some records the TB sounds a bit like a trumpet.
http://img52.exs.cx/img52/2679/100_1916copy.jpg

Cheers
I have the 881, which exhibits similar response. In my prototype enclosure, which is a good design but not ideally constructed, the 881 gets down to 100Hz easily, so some better construction is going to to give me at least another 10 or 15 Hz.

On the other hand, the TB honks like a goose at 1kHz, with another nasty peak at 9-10kHz. I ordered this kit to help me solve the problem: http://madspeaker.com/881Whisper/881WhisperKit.htm

Dave
 
I´m working on a ML-TL with a 6,5" and one TBW3-871S with a 8,5" wide baffle. Do you think I can use the notch filter from John´s audio pages (I know it´s mainly BSC) to get midrange down.

Wouldn't hurt to try. You may need to adjust the values though.
In theory, shouldn't you be able to place the mid\woof higher in the cabinet? Your goal is different here than it would be for a single driver system. If so, you might be able to build a separate enclosure for the 871 inside the TL that matches the specs for John's filter.
 
Wouldn't hurt to try. You may need to adjust the values though.
In theory, shouldn't you be able to place the mid\woof higher in the cabinet? Your goal is different here than it would be for a single driver system. If so, you might be able to build a separate enclosure for the 871 inside the TL that matches the specs for John's filter.
The idea for the TL originated here, so that dictated the position for the mid-woofer.
Yeah, I thought about sealing the TB with a plastic cup.
Will have to see how that goes together with the active-XO and the XO-point.
Will probably try one of those nothes:
http://lautsprechershop.de/hifi/ct209.htm
http://lautsprechershop.de/hifi/lancetta.htm

Dave, I hesitate to do any modifications but just might ty it if nothing helps.:smash:

Sorry for threadjacking Jim.:rolleyes:

thanks everybody
 
Timn8ter said:
There is a small vented enclosure for the W3-871S also ... Power handling will not be as good as a sealed enclosure.

A vented alignment should have more power handling than a sealed alignement if designed and implemented correctly. Further, in this application, you can design a vented alignment specifically to get more SPL than a conventional vented alignment by designing a bump in the response and then using a simple active filter to get rid of the hump. This results in significantly more power handling and output.
 
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