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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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__________________
The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chicago area
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Quote:
Keep in mind that stain and finish are two different things. Stain changes the color of the wood but doesn't give any sheen. Stain is either a dye or a pigment that is applied to add or change the color of the wood. It is applied after the project is complete and sanded. Finish is applied after stain to give the final luster to the wood (though in some cases after a finish is applied wax is also applied over the finish). Finish is usually clear but there are exceptions such as amber or honey colored shellac. Even clear it can slightly change the color of the wood.
__________________
--Sherman |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Trois-Rivières, Québec, Canada
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I finally went with tung oil. Boy does it makes the wood beautiful
You can take a look here. It's the first of six pictures I took yesterday. Just browse the gallery to see the others. As always BrianGT, feel free to take any photo that you want to put in your gallery. |
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chicago area
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Quote:
Great job! The right finish on the wood can make all the difference (in appearance anyway).
__________________
--Sherman |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ohio
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Beautiful looking amp.
Tung oil or danish oil are both great. I can't ever see using stain, I just don't like the look. If you need a hard, durable top coat ontop of your tung oil finish check out Armour Seal which I think is a tung oil-urethane blend. I got mine at woodcraft. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NYS
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Very, very nice, Jean-Pierre. The indicator lights are way cool too.
Are you using the second box? I just wanted to mention some small suggestions. The heatsinks mounted this way trap heat. One method to alleviate this is to mount everything the same way, but take the box and turn it upside down. You could cut out a section and replace it with hardware cloth, or drill some holes in it for venting. You might then even box the top and sides of the case with wood or veneered ply, leaving an air space above the heatsink vents, exiting the back. You then have a removable bottom or just leave it open for tweaking. The little feet peel off with care and reattach nicely. One recommendation for me was to twist the power wires tightly and tho it's supposed to have a beneficial interference effect, it def cleaned it up visually. Once again, well done. And if anyone's interested, I still have more of these cases, can provide wood fronts or box covers.
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onasis |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Does anybody know how to get this finish? | wrl | Multi-Way | 177 | 30th January 2008 09:15 AM |
| Non-tinted oil finish for wood? | Puggie | Multi-Way | 2 | 31st January 2006 09:54 PM |
| wood finish: linseed oil + turpentine ? | JC Fardo | Multi-Way | 10 | 20th May 2005 04:03 PM |
| A wood finish question | kneadle | Multi-Way | 19 | 17th July 2003 03:51 PM |
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