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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hello,
I have a tube of Silicone II caulking leftover from a non-DIYaudio loudspeaker project. Does anyone have an objection to its use, i.e., chemical reaction to drivers? I don't know what makes silicone II different from plain old silicone. BTW, is there a formal "Frugal-phile" organization I can join? Thanks, Dave |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Silicone caulks (yours is no exception) outgas considerable amounts of acetic acid. If you use it in a cabinet, let it really cure for a while longer than you think is necessary, using lots of moving air.
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“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Does that advice apply when applying the caulk ONLY to mount the driver?
Thanks, Dave |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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the acid can react and eat away untreated foam surrounds.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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It depends on the driver. For any driver where there's even the slightest question of reactivity (especially pulp cones), don't use silicone to mount it. Or at least just use the silicone to form a gasket, let it cure thoroughly, then bolt the driver in and torque it down.
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“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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As for chemical reations I've never had a problem. I've used silicone to repair cones and surrounds when in trouble. Mounting a driver with it is prety much permanent. I did an isobaric sub with it about 12 years ago. When one driver developed a problem it was bloody murder to get them out. If you plan on using the silicone as a seal you might try spreading a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the basket and areas that will come into contact with the silicone. It should make getting them out allot easier.
Mark
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Mark |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Thanks to all. Dave |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Don't use silicone as a driver gasket seal unless you let it cure fully first. On the interior of the cab the acetic acid vapor will settle on waterever metal it finds and start corroding whatever it is not resistant. That includes steel, rubber surrounds, etc. Small amounts might not be noticeable, but they will decrease the life of your drivers.
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Everyone has a photographic memory. It's just that most are out of film. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Mackay Australia
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If it’s slightly acidic do not use it!!!!!
If your driver has a vented pole piece and an aluminum former well there’s a fair chance that it will corrode I’ve hade it happen before. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
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I agree. I would be very careful of exposing expensive drivers to corrosive gasses from these glues. If you really are fond of the perfomance of silicone, you can hunt for the "non-acetic neutral cure" variety. Any brand that is specifically suitable for aquariums should do (but not always. sometimes they merely suggest a lengthy curing period to degass it before adding fish - read the label for neutral cure). There are other uses for neutral cure silicone in building materials since it is required for bonding certain reactive metals and some types of plastics. I haven't looked at lowes or home depot but you might find it there.
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