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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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How to glue wood if clamps are out of question? More precisely, how to ensure that the angles are and stay right? And how do you do it, do you glue the sides to the top and bottom first and then the baffle and the back or all at once?
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we all love a good ol' stereotype until it's against us |
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#2 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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mr p p,
Please tell us why you can't use clamps. Cal |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
![]() I know about duct tape but I wonder how could I make 18 mm heavy MDF stick into place with that? After all, it requires precisions below 1 millimeter.
__________________
we all love a good ol' stereotype until it's against us |
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#4 |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Germany, Clausthal
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screws
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#5 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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As till said, your option is to use screws. You also have the option of removing the screws after the glue dries and filling the holes. If you don't like that idea, use heavy weights.
Cal |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
we all love a good ol' stereotype until it's against us |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shropshire, England
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Quote:
Cut a few right-angled triangles from offcuts of your MDF, glue them up to make two strong prisms, fix one securely to a stout batten, and make the other adjustable using bolts, etc. Alternatively, you could use opposed wedges for adjustment and tightening |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Switzerland
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There is some type of glues that works without much clamping. But I don't know its long-term behaviour.
regards Charles |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Racine, Wisconsin
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... a Spanish windlass.
Wrap rope around the enclosure and secure as a loop. Insert stick in a bite of the loop around the box and start turning the rope, gradually increasing the tension. Just like a tourniquet. |
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