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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bucks County, Pa
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Get one clamp at least. Buy a length or 2 of 1/8" or 3/16" dowel and a corresponding drill bit. Glue the joint, clamp it at 1 spot. Drill a hole about 2" deep. Put a healthy drop of glue into the hole and tap in a length of dowel (if you cut them into pieces slightly longer than the hole depth). Move the clamp to the next position and repeat.
Another option is to rent a brad gun and glue and pin it together. There are new guns out that just use batteries and are supposedly very nice. Pete |
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#22 |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Germany, Clausthal
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: KK
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What abaut this solution?
http://www.hajdinjaklabs.com/hl/Photosx.html Yoi make a groove on each of 2 pices you want to join and then use a pice off wood (2 times as high as the depth of the groove) and put it in between. Then glue the box together and tighten up with the thig that tazzy suggested in post 8. Robi |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
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How about impact adhesive?
Colin |
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#25 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NH, USA
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Quote:
You don't need claps for speaker building. It makes the joint a little stronger, sooo? The strongest stiffest place in a speaker is the corner. I do use clamps though but they're not necessary, even a weight is not necessary, but definately a good idea. Also using a "fat dog" as a weight is a bad idea. As for the angles. You can figure that part out on your own I'm sure. Actually you can figure out all of this on your own, probably. |
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#26 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Angshu |
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#27 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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I'm not sure you can get results that would satisfy me with hand tools only. IME a router and flush trim but is a must for a perfect finish enclosure, along with square cut panels to begin with.
I cut four panels as accurate as possible on the table saw (get your supplier to do this) and the remaining two oversized by several mm (at least). I then glue a panel at a time in such a way that only the panel edge overhangs if at all: 1) bottom and front panel. 2) attach to oversized side panel. 2.5) *bracing goes in 3) rear panel. 4) top panel. 5) remaining oversized side panel. As each panel goes in the box squares itself but this absolutely requires clamps to be perfect. I got away with two long and two shorter clamps for my sub. Once all panels are on you will have en enclosure with many overhanging edges which I then trim down with the router for a perfect finish. Comprehensive images of how I put my latest sub together using this method can be found here: http://www.vikash.info/audio/xls10/construction.asp The router I use cost only Ł20 and the panels you can have cut square at your supplier. As someone pointed out earlier, you can never have too many clamps, although I scrape by with four.
__________________
"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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#28 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chicago area
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Quote:
__________________
--Sherman |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Yorkshire
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Clamps can be bought cheaply at bargain shops these days, or those shops that sell cheap tools and car mats etc. I got 0.5 metre ones for UKŁ1 each and metre length ones for UKŁ2 each. Do they have these type of shops in your part of the world?
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#30 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
we all love a good ol' stereotype until it's against us |
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