BillFitzmaurice said:
I hope so. my room is not large by american standards (about 12 ftx 24 ft with a 8.5 ft ceiling) and i do have 4 of these woofers. I was thinking of using 2 of them in 3 cu. ft. TL and 2 of them in 3 cu. ft. sealed boxes.
one unrelated question. I have a stereo power amp (that can be bridged if I so desire). i can see 3 options:
1. bridge the amp (carver m1.0t) and run all 4 woofers in mono
2. run 2 woofers off each channel in dual mono - the signal the amps will be getting will be a mono signal from the LF output of my HT/AV Marantz SR7000.
3. bypass the LF filter on my HT/AVR OR take a stereo signal feed from the preout of the front channels and then use 2 seperate active XOs that sum left and right into mono as well. so now one has 2 mono signals at 2 different frequencies (say 100/120Hz and 60/50Hz). Feed one mono signal into one channel of the power amp and feed the second mono signal to the second channel of the power amp. run the TLs XOed at 100/120Hz and the sealed subs XOed at 60/50Hz. sounds complicated?
MJK said:
will do that. i could not find the link for the spreadsheet on your website. i will look harder.
MJK said:
Two pages of posts yet to read in this thread so someone may have commented already... what George said was that with a higher Q driver you can get more efficient bass. He said nothing about better. I don't recall whether he said it in his paper, but it was certainly a comment in his original presentation.
The B139 which was the basis on many of the successful classic designs has a Q of 0.37.
I consider 0.3-0.4 to be medium Q.
dave
Hello all!
I decided, that I will try to do TL.A lot of information I found at t-linespeakers and quater-wawe.At the begining I have in mind,that I should use mathcad worksheet,but it was to complicated for me(first year of secondary school
).Than I found at the those 2 sites(forum also) very understandable instructions:
* make the line length ~ 1/4 the wavelength of Fs (1/4 wavelength will be the F3 point)
* taper the line from 1.25 - 2 Sd down to Sd at the port
* after building it, stuff the line -- increasing or decreasing the stuffing till it sounds right. Add if the line is too "boomy", reduce if its too lean. The stuffing increases the length of the line (by slowing the speed of sound down to .7-.9) and (hopefully) damps out higher frequencies
(from www.t-linespeakers.org)
Then I found "Alignment_Tables.pdf", where are clearly described all
TL aligments...
I want to say "thanks!" to both authors,because searching on the net could take me hours nad hours of reading unuseful information...
Dean
I decided, that I will try to do TL.A lot of information I found at t-linespeakers and quater-wawe.At the begining I have in mind,that I should use mathcad worksheet,but it was to complicated for me(first year of secondary school
).Than I found at the those 2 sites(forum also) very understandable instructions:* make the line length ~ 1/4 the wavelength of Fs (1/4 wavelength will be the F3 point)
* taper the line from 1.25 - 2 Sd down to Sd at the port
* after building it, stuff the line -- increasing or decreasing the stuffing till it sounds right. Add if the line is too "boomy", reduce if its too lean. The stuffing increases the length of the line (by slowing the speed of sound down to .7-.9) and (hopefully) damps out higher frequencies
(from www.t-linespeakers.org)
Then I found "Alignment_Tables.pdf", where are clearly described all
TL aligments...
I want to say "thanks!" to both authors,because searching on the net could take me hours nad hours of reading unuseful information...
Dean
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