Killjoy99 said:One of the biggest reasons that I was researching into the 3M tapes was their strength. I want to create a cable that is tightly laminated with a strong "plastic" insulator that will keep the cable from easily being damaged from normal use. All of us could probably buy some transparent packaging tape and use that on both side of the foil but give it a month and they would look like a wrinkled piece of newspaper.
The stronger tapes should keep the foil from bending for the most part and stop it from creasing.
I would comment about the dielectric properties but i've got a lack of knowledge to that respect.
I guess either way some of those rolls of tape are way to expensive for most of us, including myself.
I had the same thoughts regarding crumpling and lack of strength. What put me off was the price of the expensive tapes.......You could also use some kind of thin plastic card or something like that to give the cables some strength
Killjoy99 said:Good idea!!!
I'll have to give that one a try. I could think that the only real downfall would be the fact that you need quite a bit more foil to make a decent length of cable. I wonder how much length is wrapped into my 14 gauge 1mH inductor. I guess I'll find out soon enough. The thing is at least 2.5 inches in diameter.
My 0.3mH inductor (a CFAC Solo 14AWG) had about 210" of foil. So I guess yours would have about 600" or so.
I've made two-conductor interconnects with fiberglass packing tape and liked the results. What everyone's overlooking is the actual material isn't too important. The main component of the dialectric is the tape's adhesive which is typically a silicone based formulation. The mediocre quality can be partially offset by using a wide tape and spacing the conductors as far apart as practical.
Two other possibilities. Use a heavily waxed paper to set the conductors and then coat it with a second tape for strength. Wax/paper capacitors are held in high regard in some quarters. Another thought is to space the conductors with a heat setting laminate like the kind used to seal documents.
Two other possibilities. Use a heavily waxed paper to set the conductors and then coat it with a second tape for strength. Wax/paper capacitors are held in high regard in some quarters. Another thought is to space the conductors with a heat setting laminate like the kind used to seal documents.
I thought about the heat sealing laminate but was unable to find such a thing in the form of a roll. Just to try and clarify: Are you saying that the type of adhesive changes the outcome and overall sound from the cable? Keep in mind that I am talking about a speaker cable not an interconnect. Thanks
Brian
What I'm saying is that the adhesive will almost certainly be the primary dialectric making the substrate important mostly from a structural perspective. I did think the glass-tape interconnects (two 28 gauge, teflon insulted, silver coated copper hookup wires spaced about 1/2" apart) did sound better than some old Van Den Huls I had around, and better than spiraling the same wire around a hollow teflon core and heat shrinking. There are too many variables, from impedance to RF susceptibility, to say why. Whether the dialectric made an audible difference is a question best left for philosphers and Usenet. I suspect not as it's at least a 1/2" thick between the conductors and would be a very small value capacitance.
I suspect not as it's at least a 1/2" thick between the conductors and would be a very small value capacitance.
Hi,
Actually, you don't have to.
Just make sure the center conductor isn't making any contact with the outer shield or the binding posts.
For use as LS cable you remove about an inch of the outer sleeving at both sides.
You can twist both the + and - . Terminate it with some Y-shaped heatshrink or just use some tape to keep them together, whatever does the job.
Flexibility depends mostly on the materials used, it shouldn't be any more or less flexible than similiar thickness coaxial cable.
Make sure you get at least copperfoil as the outer shielding material, silverfoil should exist too.
Cheers,
Actually, you don't have to.
Just make sure the center conductor isn't making any contact with the outer shield or the binding posts.
For use as LS cable you remove about an inch of the outer sleeving at both sides.
You can twist both the + and - . Terminate it with some Y-shaped heatshrink or just use some tape to keep them together, whatever does the job.
Flexibility depends mostly on the materials used, it shouldn't be any more or less flexible than similiar thickness coaxial cable.
Make sure you get at least copperfoil as the outer shielding material, silverfoil should exist too.
Cheers,
Heres one I did
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