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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Hi S12 users
Some feedback on the Fostex FT17H tweeters. I decided after reading a few comments just to go ahead and just get some on the FT17H tweeters on the spur of the moment, and given these tweeters aren’t that expensive anyway. I removed the Audax tweeters and simply rotated the tweeter mount 90 degrees so the bigger tweeters could attach outside of the box! Looks bizarre but who gives a fig? I have made no changes to the crossover at tall. Straight off, these tweeters flat out beat the Audax metal domes by a country mile, no contest. They simply transform this speaker, taking it to another plane altogether. There is so much more information in the treble but the midrange also benefits greatly. Lyrics are much clearer, I'm hearing deeper into the background mix, imaging is vastly improved, and the performers are much more there with you in the room. The only downside is a trace of sibilance, perhaps due to the fact these arent run in yet, but there is no more spittiness; these tweeters are vastly smoother than the Audax. Not even close. And the difference will make you smile within the first 10s. The speakers are much more toe-tapping now too, always a bonus. All in all, I couldn’t be happier. I am not tempted in the least to make any crossover changes, except to improve components if I can be bothered. Really, changing the tweeter has been a vastly enormous improvement, better than I ever dared imagine. Much better than any other changes to cables, internal bracing, felt draped behind the woofer, blah blah. For those interested, these tweeters are only $US36 each at Madisound. Im not entirely sure whether the crossover really is right for these tweeters, but straight off the bat, there’s no readily apparent downside. I don’t think they need L-padding either; I never get the feeling that the treble is coming from the tweeters, if you get my meaning. It is just there in the soundstage. Im a bass and treble nut, so like both working well; nothing seems to be dominating here. The other thing is, while the speakers now look a bit odd, I just don’t give a toss as they sound like angels. And I think getting rid of the tweeter in front of the main 12 inch cone was also a great thing to do; I get the impression the 12 inch driver is now able to sing better too! Next up, Im going to try some of that Drammar (spelling?) fluid on the main cone (not sure of the spelling of this one) to see if that is all it is cracked up to be. If anyone has any comments on how to optimise the crossover for these tweeters, please let me know. Mine are still bog standard in that regard. Cheers Peter |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Daytona Beach FL
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I'd be careful about the Damar. Mike specifically said the speaker would be completely changed and ruined in his opinion, as the Dammar would add weight to the cone. It may reduce breakup distortion at low frequencies, but once it's on, it doesn't come off.
I have these speakers as well and love them. Good luck, Bob
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Bob Hedberg |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Slovenia
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Yes;be careful and think twice befor you use dammar.
I've painted my full range Monacor SP-200x drivers with dammar after I've read about Thorstens Afterburner project with Eminence drivers. I have applied 2 very thick layers (dammar-turpentine 1:3) on main cone and 4 on whizzer. After that my speakers became more agressive on high mids and not more listenable as they should. Now I don't know what to do....to put some more coats on whizzer to dampen the high mids? Regards |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Daytona Beach FL
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Maybe you can brush on the substance the varnish is mixed with, such as turpentine, or whatever dissolves the varnish. Repeated brushing might remove some of the varnish.
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Bob Hedberg |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Slovenia
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Hmmm..I don't think this would be possible because
I've used alot of dissolvent so this stuff was actually soaked into paper.Well,maybe I've done it wrong or the driver just need more break-in or something. But...if it works for many people in this forum with many different drivers I can see no reason not to work with Monacor drivers and my sistem. Maybe I just have to put on some more layers. If I recall it right Thorsten mentioned somewhere the same Monacor SP-200x drivers in open baffle treated "extensively" with dammar and playing quite good... He didn't specificaly described the number of layers and how this drivers were coated. Well...maybe he could give me a hint what would be the right way. Regards |
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