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Old 27th August 2004, 09:44 PM   #11
brsanko is offline brsanko  United States
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well I also have used them I haven't measured them or any thing but the bass from just one in a .5 cubic ' box sounded decent thats less than half the optimal size so 8 of them in a box of correct size should give me decent output I think. I'm not looking to shake the foudation or anything. I'm gonna try it if they suck I let you rub it in and say I told you so. To tell you the truth I was pleasently suprised at the quality of these woofer for $10 they may not be as good as there specs indicate but I think they are a lot better than there price indicates.
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Old 27th August 2004, 09:49 PM   #12
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do you by any chance know what the xmax is on these drivers. and if so how do I figure the bass out put from that.
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Old 27th August 2004, 09:59 PM   #13
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I don't know the xMax off hand but do know that in a vented box you'll exceed it if you give them more than about ten watts below 60Hz. They really need to be mounted in sealed boxes of no more than .7 cu ft so that they don't blow the surround and spider. Model one in that configuration and you'll see why they aren't real woofer material. Isobaric mounting, which doubles the stress on the suspensions with every doubling of drivers, is guaranteed to be the doom of the outboard unit. A sealed box with all 8 drivers as direct radiators wouldn't help F3 at all and would require a good 4 cu ft to work properly but at least it would work.
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Old 27th August 2004, 10:07 PM   #14
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If I've got 8 of them how often are each of them gonna get more than 10 watts anyway? like I said I'm not looking to shake the foundations I really am looking for a high efficiency design do go with a low power tube amp. probably an SET. If the eight of them would give me the sensitivity I'm looking for I'll probably be happy with 45hz. My goal is to design as close to a full range system as possible that could be powered by such an amp.
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Old 27th August 2004, 10:32 PM   #15
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this thread has gone off in the wrong direction the woofers are the aspect of the design I am the least attached to or concerned with. I may very well use a different woofer alignment. The mid and tweeter alignment is the area in which I was seeking some feedback, as well as horn design.
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Old 28th August 2004, 01:53 AM   #16
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Originally posted by AuroraB
Are the front horns original Oris,- or something else ???
Not Oris. These are something I'm cooking up myself.
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Old 28th August 2004, 02:04 AM   #17
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Originally posted by brsanko
are you interested in selling any of those fr drivers. and tell me more about your horns they look good but if I'm not mistaken I think the oris horn are for 8" speakers and you said yours were 6" so I would guess they are something else.
I'm still in the experimental stages on these horns so there isn't much to say yet. I don't wish to sell any of my 6" driver inventory as I hope to use it in a product. If this changes I'll be happy to sell them all and will place notice here.

Thank you for the complement on the horns.

I'm making a mold to cast a ~20" diameter round horn for a 4" diameter cone driver that could use plaster or cement, impregnated with metal mesh. These unfinished horns could be offered as a component for the DIY community down the road but don't expect anything soon.
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Old 28th August 2004, 04:19 AM   #18
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Using the listed specs (at least for now), your net Vb implies that you're planning on series/paralleling four sets of isobaric pairs, ergo the sensitivity will increase ~9dB. The 92dB eff. rating must be a midbass peak due to a high Le since the calc'd eff. is somewhere around 84.3dB, so once the Le is halved due to lowering the system to a nominal 4ohms, I imagine the sensitivity around 300Hz will only be ~93.3dB/2.83V/m or a little higher, not enough to blend well with the horn so best to rethink the bottom end IMO.

WRT your horn, your description is a bit too sketchy to really comment on it beyond the round Vs square issue. Square works well as long as you make the sides the same width as its equivalent diameter rather than the more common equivalent CSA, make a nice mouth flare to reduce reflections back to the throat like on a round horn, and use wood putty/Bondo/whatever to round the throat somewhat. IOW, using 1500Hz as an example, make a mounting baffle with a ~13560/pi/1500 = ~2.875" dia. hole in it for the throat and use it as a guide to taper from round to square over ~an octave. A butter knife works for me. Just make sure the surface is clean/coarse enough to ensure a good bond, don't want it cracking or falling out. Mildly rounding the seams all the way to the mouth doesn't hurt either. Last, but not least, make sure the horn's interior is well sealed/smooth for best performance. Folks tend to forget that air is vibrating at ~13560"/sec against it.

A bit of work, but still less of a hassle than a round horn and in this BW I've found the difference to be inaudible. Where square/rectangular get a bad rep is folks tend not to bother with the details that makes round ones the ideal.

GM
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