|Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers|
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|13th August 2004, 04:44 PM||#1|
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Greater Cincinnati Area
MTM Driver & Tweeter Selection
Thanks again to everyone who assured me that a 4ohm load is not going to kill my receiver!
Now I need some guidance on some drivers/tweeters. I know that every driver is decent to some degree (especially when cost is factored in) and if I search hard enough I can find at least one person who loves a particular driver and another person who hates it...
What I was not able to find (and is not always evident from specifications & charts) was the type of sound I can expect from the drivers (e.g., warm, detailed, mushy, etc... you all know the terms!)
Here are some details associated with my project:
- Sealed speaker cabinet pre-cut for 2 7" drivers and 1 3" tweeter
- Outside dimensions: 8.5"w x 21"h x 11"d
- Internal volume: 0.75 cu-ft => 21.25 liters
- Driven by a Yamaha RX-V2400 (from what I have read, Yamahas are "cooler" sounding relative to other "warmer" receivers (e.g., Denon))
- The room is relatively large (12'w x 7.5'h x 30'd) and has sound deadening walls
- Use would be 60% TH, 40% music
Problem 1: Which driver to select for the MTM configuration and the type of sound expected. My medium sized list and approx cost per driver:
Peerless 832732 ($35)
Dayton Euro Series Woofer ($37)
Seas CA18RNX (H1215) ($57)
Seas L18RCY/P (H1085) - small magnet ($63)
Seas L18RNX/P (H1142) - big magnet ($68)
Seas G18RNX/P (H1100) ($60)
VIFA MG18WK09/8 ($48)
VIFA XG18WH00/8 ($62)
VIFA PL18WO-09/8 ($60)
Problem 2: How do I select a tweeter that is a good match for a particular driver? Is it best to stick with the same manufacturer and line (e.g., Vifa Premium Line driver would work well with a Vifa PL Tweeter)?
Thank you for your insights!
|13th August 2004, 06:53 PM||#2|
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
First download the WinISD program, if you don't already have it. You can simulate the response of any driver by loading its specs, though you will probably find most already in the program data base. The program will tell you the preferred box size, tuning etc, but you can alter the recommended box dimensions to what you already have and that way back into what gives the best combination of sensitivity and response bandwidth.
Next consider at what frequency you want to cross over; that should be no higher than where the axial response of the driver is within 2dB of flat and the 30 degree off-axis response is no more than 6dB down. Choose the tweeter that will operate down to that frequency, with the combination of the flattest axial response and highest -6dB at 30 degrees off axis response as you can afford.
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