Can a bookshelf be made into a floorstander?

[Ken C]

I've heard mixed answers on this so far.
I really like the inexpensive Usher/Peerless 2-way Wayne J designed on speakerbuilder.net (derivative of PeeCreek).

What I want to know is if I can make another pair into a floor stander approximately 36-40 inches or so, by splitting the cabinet into two sections. The top would be the same internal volume/dimensions as the original design, the bottom would be filled with either:

1) Polyfill and bracing
2) Cat litter (unscented and unused of course)
3) Your idea

I'm worried about problems with cabinet resonance (which I think either of the above might address) and and phase alignment from a different baffle step.

Can this be done?
I just figure if I have to build or buy stands again, it'd be nice to acheive the "look" of tall floorstanders.

Maybe I could use the extra cabinet volume to the speakers advantage? Any ideas?

[rabbitz]

Just seal off the volume you don't need. You could always use dry sand or lead shot in the lower section to give the speaker some mass (never tried it myself). I normally just partition the section I don't need with a panel angled at 45º usually sloping towards the rear.

You could always use the additional volume to add additional bracing in the speaker enclosure section.

As far as baffle step....... if the baffle width is the same and the drivers are in the same location from the top, I can't see it altering too much.

[Ken C]

Thanks Rabbitz:

Yeah, my limited knowledge tells me the baffle width is more important than the speaker's height, but that height will have some minor impact.
Guess we'll build, and see. If it doesn't sound good I'm sure there'll be a lesson to be learned.
If worse comes to worse I can always cut the cabinets to original size.

Or put a couple of subwoofers in the bottom sections....hmmmm....

[rabbitz]

Thinking ahead hey!

[LaMa]

Originally posted by rabbitz
Just seal off the volume you don't need. You could always use dry sand or lead shot in the lower section to give the speaker some mass (never tried it myself). I normally just partition the section I don't need with a panel angled at 45º usually sloping towards the rear.

As far as baffle step....... if the baffle width is the same and the drivers are in the same location from the top, I can't see it altering too much.

It helps much to fill the lower part with sand or / lead shot. Just the best and cheapest stand possible .

Baffle step isn't compromised, because the width is most of the times the limiting distance for the frequency on which the baffle step occurs (in case the woofer is further from the lower edge then from the side edges).