Proteus vs Eros

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I'm sure by now most of you are familiar with both the Proteus and the Eros . Both of the designers have great reputations and also obviously haev great skill. Both of the designs have been built by many other people and I've never seen any bad comments about either. In the price are the Proteus comes out a bit cheaper (just for drivers it's about $50 cheaper per speaker), but it isn't enough to break my bank so I'll ignore it. I'm going to be building a pair of speakers to be used as the front left and right in my home theater and I've pretty much narrowed it down to these two designs. These speakers will also be used quite regularly to listen to 2-channel music (driven by a Leach Amp, about 120W/ch@8ohm). I'm very interested in hearing opinions about which design is going to sound better (if you find yourself asking "Does he mean for music or for home theater?" then I'd say music comes first).
 
I recently built the Eros speakers and can say first hand that they are all that said of them. The low end is outstanding the mids are quite good and the highs are outstanding as well. I could be a little hard on the mids as I just changed from the ft-1600 (a Bob Brines) floorstander (I really liked the old ones too but they didnt integrate in my room as well as these do, they are still a great speaker). I would highly recommend the Eros. If you dont need extreme volumes the ft-1600 would be a good choice also for a lot less money.

I am currently using a Denon reciever for power and have wanked on the Eros pretty hard and they just take it in stride, as I have yet to hear one bottom out, and that is even running full range. If money isnt that big of an issue I would think you couldnt ask for more for your dollar.
 
dejo said:
I recently built the Eros speakers and can say first hand that they are all that said of them. The low end is outstanding the mids are quite good and the highs are outstanding as well. I could be a little hard on the mids as I just changed from the ft-1600 (a Bob Brines) floorstander (I really liked the old ones too but they didnt integrate in my room as well as these do, they are still a great speaker). I would highly recommend the Eros.
Can you please give us more reference as to how they perform? How did it compare to other well known speakers? What would you expect to pay for them if they were commercial speakers?
Nothing against you or subjective remarks like 'there really that good', but I'm naturally suspicious of ppl 's comments on the speakers they built with their own hands, especially when you've designed them themselves.

The design does look very attractive though, especially the MKII (did you build the MKI or MKII?)

Cheers,
Hans.
 
as far as known speakers go its hard for me to rate them, as I have used the ft-1600 for several months and before that I had a set of old mg-1 magnapans which are very hard to compare a conventional speaker to (the old ones had no bass at all but a very pleasant mid and real subdued highs). I did audition a set of B&W (dont know the model) that cost about $1300 US but I still like the Eros better.

Motion, how do you want me to email serveral at once or a couple at a time. Let me know and I will start sending.

And just so everyone knows these are the first that I have built totally on my own with no outside hands, so dont be super harsh on me.
 
I've found the people on this forum are good at following the rule "If you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all". This of course should not include HELPFUL critisism. Anyway, you can e-mail then however you please, but if you attach too many to one e-mail you may have problems getting it to go through. One by one if fine with me as well. I would request that you send them to wigginjs@whatisrazar.com instead of the e-mail listed for me on this forum. Thanks!
 
one question on the eros

- is there a way i can use the older partsexpress buyout PL18 04ohm woofers into this design?
I know there will be slight changes in the xover design and enclosure...but the driver's performance should be similar correct?

i soooo wanna do this project :)
 
According to the designer, the MKI already had a problem with low impedance, which he fixed in the MKII. If you use the 4ohm version, you either need to get an amp stable down to say 2 ohm or change the xo by padding down the tweeter while using the woofers in series. I wouldn't recommend that.
 
Hans L said:
According to the designer, the MKI already had a problem with low impedance, which he fixed in the MKII. If you use the 4ohm version, you either need to get an amp stable down to say 2 ohm or change the xo by padding down the tweeter while using the woofers in series. I wouldn't recommend that.


thanks for the reminder...

what if i change the design a bit and wire the woofers in series to achieve 8ohm instead?
generally...how would that affect the overall design?
 
Eros (unshielded) next to RPTV

Dejo,

I see you have your speakers very close to your TV. Have you noticed any visible effects on your picture from the driver motor structures? It looks like the drivers are actually pretty far away from the CRTs. I just thought I'd ask.

What types of music do you listen to? Do the speakers prefer any type jazz/classical, acoustic, vs rock? Which crossover MKI or MKII?

What did you do for the veneer? Paperback, NBL, raw? How did you apply it (contact cement, yellow glue/iron…etc)? Choice of finish? Care to share any lessons from the construction?

BTW I’m currently building a pair my self. I have all the parts and am in the process of gluing the panels. This will be my second speaker but my first with a veneer. I’m a little nervous. On the plus side it appears from all reports that they will sound great no matter what they look like!
 
to answer you questions

I used the mk1 x-over

they sound very good any every type of music I have played including rock, classical, techno

as for veneer I chose to use the mdf on the inside of the cabinet and used a birch veneered ply for the rear and sides and then used a solid 1x10 of red oak for the front baffle and top and the base, I also have a set of Fostex Zigmahornets done the same way for rears

I havenet noticed any discoloration from the speakers to the crt's on the tv

as far as tips on building I would recommend cutting all matching pieces at the same time to keep them symetrical (I got ahead of myself) and make sure you have plenty of clamps for gluing.
 
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