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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 24th July 2004, 05:04 PM   #11
rdf is offline rdf  Canada
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I built a pair of MK-style port loaded TL's from 8" x 4" x 1/4" wall steel rectuangular tube using TB W4-657B's. Unless you're prepared to go to extraordinary lengths to damp structural resonances, I wouldn't recommend steel. Though so far glueing homemade constrained layer damping panels (1/8" aluminum bonded to linoleum tile) to all interior surfaces, replacing the steel mounting hardware with nylon and standing the driver on a 3/16" rubber o-ring have done wonders to reduce cabinet talk, it's not yet gone. The only thing I can think left to try is wrapping the exterior with leather - for that Euro look - or vinyl/rubber to suppress cabinet radiation.
The frustrating part is the potential screams out every time the needle drops. The sound is quick, lively, and the bass is obviously as tight as your design, but there's always an underlay of nasality that wears after extended listening. That and an accidental drop can break your foot. No joke, these things tip the scales at close to 40 lbs a side and cut through floor tile like butter. Not at all kid safe.
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Old 24th July 2004, 05:08 PM   #12
rdf is offline rdf  Canada
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Picture of above.
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Old 24th July 2004, 05:21 PM   #13
Variac is offline Variac  United States
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Isuppose it's conceivable that
I could be wrong....

It looks like the steel enclosures are on separate stands.
It would be a lot safer and prob sound better if you welded a column to the bottom of the enclosure and a plate on the bottom of that to have integrated stands..
Oh yeah- you have all the stuff glued to the inside which would prob catch fire.. They sure are beautiful though...

I guess aluminum generally would ring less and the thicker plates per given weight would be helpful.. I trhink the Krell are half inch plate
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Old 24th July 2004, 06:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by kilowattski
......Once the tank has been completely filled with water, it can be emptied and cut.

No, no no! The water must be IN THE TANK, full, during the torch cutting or welding. Even once rinsed out heating can cause embedded gas molecules to outgas from the pores of the metal and in some circumstances cause enough gas to create an explosion hazard.
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Old 24th July 2004, 06:52 PM   #15
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Default water jet cutting

perhaps it would be even safer if you live near a water jet cutting facility. Of course, they'd probably be wary of cutting the tank if ownership/legality is in question.

Rdf, those steel speakers look great! I'd love to see what they look like if you cover them in leather. Or maybe carpet or faux fur?
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Old 24th July 2004, 08:53 PM   #16
rdf is offline rdf  Canada
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Thanks Variac! You're right, those stands are rock bottom. $99 Future Shop specials, I was tired of looking at T-lines on chairs. The stands will sub for wind chimes or bells in a pinch.
Steel has a couple additional unique consequences I forgot to mention. Internal crossovers, for example, are a no-no. Can't put inductors near than much magnetic metal. Also internal wall damping becomes mandatory. Wood has at least some absorption at higher frequencies. There's a reason plate reverbs used metal.
Aluminum, especially sandwiched with linoleum, shows far more promise.
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Old 25th July 2004, 06:20 AM   #17
TheoM is offline TheoM  United States
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Default Propane tanks etc..

I've built a couple of cylndrical models.

See one of them attached. Carbon fiber wrapped sonotube. Its a bass guitar cab I'm experimenting with.

It's true - a cylinder is a great cab - virtually no wall vibrations while still lightweight - although I do think steel would ring, untreated.

What I might do if I had a propane cylinder is use it as a form to wrap Kevlar or carbon fiber. You'd need a lot of layers. I'd grease the steel so the fiber will slip off when its cured.

Cutting and gluing baffles is tricky. The slot needs to be perfect.

You could leave the propane tank in there as additional structure and the carbon fiber would damp it. I'd damp the inside with spray foam. sticks to anything. Another thing I'd do is ground the chasis so to speak. The steel and the carbon fiber are both conductors so this might make a great rf sheild as a fringe benefit.

For design, Bass Box Pro has a built in cylinder design option - which saves a lot of number crunching. I'd probably try a sealed design if I could find a woofer that liked a sealed cab with the volume represented by the tank. That would challenge the structural advantages of the cylinder (in a good way). ted.
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Old 25th July 2004, 10:37 AM   #18
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OK then, safety issues aside, I was thinking that if you didn't drive such a system with greater than 100Hz or so and wrapped it with carpet then ringing wouldn't be much of a problem. If it did turn out to be so then maybe you could build an outer box around it from say 12mm MDF and fill the space between the cylinder and the box with sand or rags or whatever. At least it would then look a bit more conventional, with the added benefit of enabling wifey-type loungeroom objects to be placed on it.
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Old 25th July 2004, 03:19 PM   #19
rdf is offline rdf  Canada
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My experience with rectangular steel cabinets is the ringing occurs in the midrange and up. From that perspective I don't see any reason that, with high slope external crossovers, steel wouldn't work well as a sub cabinet.
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Old 26th July 2004, 03:58 AM   #20
chad i is offline chad i  United States
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You can purchase new empty tanks at Walmart in the lawn and garden dept for (I think ) around $30.
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