ideas for fe206e and fountek JP2

[JeffG]

Okay I got 4 (Four) x Fostex FE206E Drivers, and Two(2) Fountek JP2 Tweeters. Using all drivers ( two boxes obviously)) looking for suggestions. MLTL, DBR, FH what do you think?? Size suggestions, series or parallel.. All ideas welcomed. Got the drivers already.. Previously was thinking about a huge 180 litre DBR enclosure.. Now am not sure..

Please help.. Wanna use two fe206e's in one enclosure.. Heard lots of good stuff about JP2 also... SO looking forward to see if they play nice with each other.

Help!

Jeff

[zobsky]

Originally posted by JeffG
Okay I got 4 (Four) x Fostex FE206E Drivers, and Two(2) Fountek JP2 Tweeters. Using all drivers ( two boxes obviously)) looking for suggestions. MLTL, DBR, FH what do you think?? Size suggestions, series or parallel.. All ideas welcomed. Got the drivers already.. Previously was thinking about a huge 180 litre DBR enclosure.. Now am not sure..

Please help.. Wanna use two fe206e's in one enclosure.. Heard lots of good stuff about JP2 also... SO looking forward to see if they play nice with each other.

Help!

Jeff

fostex 206e is a full range driver (more or less), .. why would you want to use two of them in one box, .. me thinks you would have strange imaging effects (crude analogy, .. think of using 2 tweeters in one box)

if you were intending to use them as midranges and cross over to a tweeter, .. there are probably cheaper drivers for the purpose, ..plus you negate one of the biggest advantages of using single drivers ie. the lack of (or minimal) crossovers.

my suggestion: use each driver with / without the ribbon crossed high somewhere over 10K in a horn or box.

cheers

[elib]

this may be what you want? D70
http://fullrangedriver.com/tiki-view...ind=&forumId=1

[navin]

one idea...
use the fostex in push push config and use the jp2 to fill in above 8-10k.

[Variac]

I like Navin's idea- any high frequency stuff from the rear driver won't make it around to the front to cause trouble!

From what I've heard through the grapevine though, the tweeter might be so good that it would be worth using a real crossover (low pass on the Fostex, high pass on the fountek) and cross over a bit lower than 8k.

[JeffG]

I am not sure that I understand the Push-push design. Please elaborate. All ideas and suggestions are GREATLY appreciated.

Jeff

[planet10]

Originally posted by navin
one idea...
use the fostex in push push config and use the jp2 to fill in above 8-10k.

You beat me to it... push-push bipole... run the back ones all the way up, the 206s go up high enuff that you will want to roll them off no matter how high you bring in the ribbon... ideal would be a 3-amp setup, with a subrative XO on the front somewhere between 7->9k.

I've given consideration to similar systems a lot.



more pics & explaination

dave

[JeffG]

Originally posted by planet10


You beat me to it... push-push bipole... run the back ones all the way up, the 206s go up high enuff that you will want to roll them off no matter how high you bring in the ribbon... ideal would be a 3-amp setup, with a subrative XO on the front somewhere between 7->9k.

I've given consideration to similar systems a lot.



more pics & explaination

dave

Thanks Dave. Looks like a very good idea. Couple of questions though.. Sorry.. Can I use a box like shown here. I dont know if I am up to the more complicated box designs. Also not sure what a subrative crossover. Also when "wired in phase" is this just parallel wiring? Do I really need three amps for this setup?? Sorry for all the questions.. Just dont know.. Thanks again?

Jeff

[JeffG]

sorry for the crappy drawing attached above.. Did it in Paint.. And an artist Im not. Thanks a lot for the info guys.

Jeff

[planet10]

No you don't need 3 amps -- that is just my way of making the XOver easy. A subtractive XO is an active XO, where (in this case) the low pass would be derived by subtracting the 2nd order high pass from the full-range signal -- it has the advantage of giving you one side rolling off faster than 1st order but still sums flat in both amplitude & phase. Probably the best paper on the technique is on the passlabs site.

If you dont want to go active, i'd be tempted to play with a 1st order series XO fairly high 9-10k but the ribbon might not be robust enuff.

With the active XO you can get 2nd order actively and then add another pole passively by putting a big cap a couple octaves below the actual XO point (and another if needed by decraeing the size of a coupling cap) to get an ultimate 3rd or 4th order filter on the tweeter. Those thin aluminum ribbons are really easy to turn into popped fuses

dave