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Old 16th July 2004, 09:29 AM   #1
DIYNewbie is offline DIYNewbie  United States
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Lightbulb Construction and wiring basics for a newbie…

With the generous help from members of the board, I am well along in my first DIY build – a sub using the Adire Tumult driver. I have the box built (20”x20”x20” with 1.5” MDF walls), the amp purchased (QSC RMX-2450), and the EQ purchased (Behringer DSP1124). Now I am down to the point where I need to ask some dumb and tedious questions… Did I mention that I really appreciated everyone’s patience and advise? Here goes:

1. Can (should) I use generic silicone caulk to seal the box from the inside?

2. I have yet to cut the hole for the driver in my faceplate. I am planning to flush mount the driver by routing a 15.5” circle about .5 - .75” deep and then a 15” circle that goes all the way through. Sound good?

3. On the back of the faceplate, should I ease the edges of the circle so they are closer to 45 degrees than 90 degrees?

4. How do I fasten the driver to the front faceplate? It appears that the tumult has ~10 screw holes. Should I use drywall screws to screw into the MDF? Should I install t-nuts into the back of the faceplate and then screw it on with bolts into those t-nuts?

5. Here’s a biggie… The tumult has two sets of binding posts (voice coils), should I each one of those get a set of binding posts on the outside of the cabinet? I have the entire QSC amp dedicated to this sub, so it can have both channels if it wants/needs them.

6. If not, how should I run the wiring between those two sets of binding posts (red to red, black to black; red to black, black to red; etc.)

7. What kind of wire should I use between the cabinet binding posts and the voice coils? 12ga stranded (regular speaker wire), 10ga solid (electrical wiring), some other?

8. Once I have decided what kind of wire, should I solder it to the voice coils and binding posts? Or just solder it to the binding posts use the spring mounted voice coil clips?

As always, I sincerely appreciate the Board’s advice. The good news is these are easy enough questions, that I’ll only have to ask them once…

Thanks again,
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Old 16th July 2004, 01:33 PM   #2
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
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1. Yes, but make sure it's well and truely cured before installing the driver..... can react with drivers (do a search as there's some info on this).

2. No need to flush mount for a sub but if it is for asthetic reasons go for it. Your cutout circle of 15" looks wrong and I think it should be 14.125"...... check & check again before cutting.

3. IMO I wouldn't bother with the 45º chamfer as it could be a problem with installing T-nuts and the driver has plenty of rear openings.

4. T-nuts

5. Put separate binding posts for each voice coil on the back of the cabinet as you are then covered for all uses or.....

6. Get the the double binding posts (the ones with 4 posts and 2 links that join the +/+ and -/-). So you can use both VC's from 1 channel or remove the link and use 2 channels.

7. Wire's a big can of worm........ do a search here........ I just use some Supra 2 core that's 2.5mm².

8. I wouldn't solder to the voice coil posts..... just solder to the external bind posts.

My 2 cents worth. Hope it's of some help.

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Old 18th July 2004, 10:37 PM   #3
DIYNewbie is offline DIYNewbie  United States
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Rabbitz - Thanks for the input, its a big help.

1) done.
2) done.
3) Found out about that the hard way... How about wood screws with glue applied to them?
4) See 3 above...
5 & 6) done.
7) The only supra 2 I can find is in a 1000m roll - WAY more than I need. Am I really going to be able to tell the difference between Supra and Home Depot #10 stranded wire?
8) Is there any trick to this? Is solder much better than a 1/4" clip with the wire crimped to it?

now a new one - The Tumult has a rubber surround. Do I need to also put a rubber gasket between the driver and the MDF?

Thanks again!
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Old 19th July 2004, 12:22 PM   #4
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
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3. When I'm not using T-nuts I use long screws and have MDF blocks glued behind the baffle so the screw goes through the baffle and into the block.

7. Try the 10# wire and see how it goes.... should work well. The Supra is just convenient for me as I can buy it by the metre and whether it sounds better????? I just find it a good valued cable.

8. There's been a lot of debate over solder vs crimped. If crimped is easier, use it. I use crimped connections for all my drivers and solder to the binding posts only. There's a thread in Solid State about this and crimping does seem to fare well.

When you mean a rubber surround, do you mean on the outside of the driver flange or the underside of the mounting flange? I use a weather seal type foam gasket between the driver and the MDF. It's open celled and starts off about 5mm thick but compresses to next to nothing. Some builders mount the driver directly to the MDF.

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Old 19th July 2004, 01:31 PM   #5
Timn8ter is offline Timn8ter  United States
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Try this for sealing your drivers to the cabinet.
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