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3rd July 2004, 03:46 PM  #1 
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Belleville, IL.

Need help using "Edge" to design Baffle Step Correction Circuit please.
Hi all,
I'm usually lurking and posting over in the DIY Tubes area but I need a little help. I have a pair of FE206Es in BR cabinets that I built about a year ago and I would like to design a baffle step correction circuit for them. I have downloaded the "Edge" program but I'm having a little trouble understanding everything I'm looking at. Can someone hold my hand and walk me through this first design? Any help is appreciated.
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Gavin 
3rd July 2004, 10:53 PM  #3 
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Belleville, IL.

Well where do I start? I put in the dimensions for the baffle 289 x 800 mm. I then chose circular for the driver shape. I used 200 mm for the driver dimensions but I'm not sure that is correct as the membrane itself is only 175 mm across. I placed the microphone about 2.5 mters away because tha is how far away my listening position is from the face of the speakers. I then hit the "apply!" button and then asked the program to suggest "F1 and F2". It "suggested" that R1 should be 10K, R2 should be 10K, L be 6813 mH and C be .068 uF. Somehow I don't think these figures are right. That is why I'm asking for help. I'm not sure what I did wrong but I certainly did something wrong and I have no idea what it was. I built the BR cabinet according to the plans suggested by the Fostex engineers at the bottom of the PDF for the back loaded horn plans.
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Gavin 
3rd July 2004, 11:08 PM  #4 
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stockholm

Ah OK, you have two choices of compensation circuit, 1 or 2. You select the value of R1, in the active case (usually circuit 2) you typically enter a relatively high value for R1 (eg 10k), and then you should use R2=10K and C=68nF. If you want to use a passive circuit, circuit 1 is typically used, and the speaker is modelled as a resistor=R1 (which may be a bit optimistic, actually). So if you enter 6 ohms for R1, Edge tells you to use L=4 mH and R2 of 6 ohms.
The sillily high value for L originates in that Edge calculated it based on a loudspeker impedance of 10000 ohms, which of course is crazy. 
3rd July 2004, 11:31 PM  #5  
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Belleville, IL.

Quote:
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Gavin 

3rd July 2004, 11:49 PM  #6 
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stockholm

I'd take it halfway through the suspension, the same way as you do when you calculate the effective piston area. So for an 8" speaker it would be less than 8", maybe 67". You could actually calculate the effective diameter from Sd if you wish: d=2*sqrt(Sd/pi)

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