Peerless csx

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sreten

R.I.P.
Joined 2003
Huh ? what do you mean "isn't that good".

IMO the crossover designs are first rate, but cabinet design
and optimisation aren't Wayne J's forte, thats up to you.

You won't find a better crossover design on the net,
and the Peecreek is an excellent implementation of using
the driver, the NC tweeter is simply excellent for its price,
superb if you believe the blurb NC say about it.

http://www.northcreekmusic.com/Drivers/NorthD25.pdf

IMO as long as you keep the baffle width ~ the same you
can build a cabinet any way you like. So if you build the
speaker according to NC cabinet building and wiring
guidelines you are on the way to a very good speaker.

Personally I'd make it around 21L (0.75cuft) reflexed around
35Hz if a sub is not going to be used, or make it 14L (0.5cuft)
sealed if a sub is going to be used.

http://www.kaiaudio.com/diy2001/jasonopen.html

Is another design but I don't like the crossover (at all).

:) sreten.
 
B

bhg41088

Member
Joined 2004
i dunno, i always thought his designs were great too. A sub is going to be used, and i already have a pair of .5 cube enclosures, built to waynes specs. Anyway, i saw that design, i liked waynes better. So, .5 sealed it is. Also, what would you advise as far as caps and coils? poly caps and air core inductors? What about the resistors? Also, what should i like the box with? Acoustic foam, fiberglass, or poly-fill? Sorry for all the Q's.
 
S

sreten

R.I.P.
Joined 2003
For a sealed box line with foam and lightly stuff with Polyfill.

WJ box design isn't all that, but then again he was simply
copying a prefab PE cabinet, NC's approach to cabinets
is more like it IMO if your serious about getting the best
out of the driver.

Poly caps, air cored inductors, non-inductive resistors.

:) sreten.
 
S

sreten

R.I.P.
Joined 2003
So ? same tweeter different bass unit.

Internal volume is 0.5 cuft, so all you'd need to do
is slightly modify the bass unit mounting details and
omit the vent from the rear.
I'd just cutout a hole in the rear panel but leave the
plywood panel solid instead of using a terminal cup.

Would be perfectly fine with the Peecreek crossover,
and obviously built to a far more solid standard than
the PE cabinet or WJ's version of the PE cabinet.

I'd also offset the tweeters for a mirror image pair.

With the large roundovers on the front baffle IMO
any difference in baffle size would be a non-issue.

:) sreten.
 
S

sreten

R.I.P.
Joined 2003
I'm just giving suggestions, it up to you what you do.

The tweeter offset if you do it is not enough to upset
the c/o, NC suggest 3/4" which sounds about right.

I can't see any mention of braces in the cabinet details,
you did say to WJ's specifications.

The NC cabinet I just pointed out for design details,
e.g. the bracing is easily added to an existing cabinet.

Also the baffle rounding is a very good idea IMO.

I'm getting a little lost, you've built the cabinets, you have
the bass units so why are you having second thoughts ?

Have you finished off the cabinets or are they still basic MDF boxes ?

:) sreten.
 
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