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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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How does the hornloading on Tannoys larger DC's (westminster) work?
Is it just the front flare by itself that would works? Does it need the rear TL as well? (BTW I have a pair of 15inch DC's coming)
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In the interests of full disclosure JRKO = James Rupert Kingsley Osborne. And yes, my parents will pay for it when I choose their retirement home |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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If I understand the question correctly it needs the rear loading bigtime.
Though TBH IMO a plain ported box is far more sensible for domestic use. Unless you have around 3W per channel. http://users.bigpond.com/tunnelgap/Tannoy/tannoy1.html sreten.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I was hoping to use a bottlehead paramour in the future which is about 2.5watts.
I am currently working on ways to get as much volume out of the cabs without losing WAF! I started a thread called 'how big is too big?' but it seems to have dried up and been a bit corrupted by posts of other members about huge systems. So I started a thread called 'how are you gonna get that through the door?' to get rid of the other stuff! Still need to work on designs for the cabs. I was not sure how the horn loading worked on the tannoys as te front seems to be the horn and the rear transmission line. Any help is much appreciated as i am a real newbie.
__________________
In the interests of full disclosure JRKO = James Rupert Kingsley Osborne. And yes, my parents will pay for it when I choose their retirement home |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: .
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Based on what I have seen and read, it is visually and sonically stunning.
It looks like a folded horn -- a DIY nightmare. http://www.meta-gizmo.com/Tri/July/naktannoy.html If you have the skills, time, and resources I would not hesitate to build it. You have already ordereed the drivers. Why stop there? Go the distance... |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: .
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If these aren't the actual plans, they are darn close...
http://www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy18.htm It looks like you will need to extend the front surface some to accomodate the front horn. Look at the GRF corner plans (located in the earlier post from Sreten). At the end of the day -- I think Sreten is right (is he ever wrong?) It takes a very special person to build these monsters -- not to mention MOVE THEM! While you would have one of the finest speakers in the world, you would have zero WAF Why not build these and make them LOOK like Westminsters? http://www.users.bigpond.com/tunnelgap/Tannoy/mods.html |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shropshire, England
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Has anyone done something similar with 10" Golds?
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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I hought
something like this may be do-able.I could keep the width the same as the driver (ish) and use the angle to point the driver at/infront of the listening position. That way the cabs keep the laid down WAF rules and could be placed in the corner. The grey area could be the exit for the folded section. Even if the folds wount work I still get more volume from the cab and the drive unit wont suffer from rear panel deflection. Any Ideas?
__________________
In the interests of full disclosure JRKO = James Rupert Kingsley Osborne. And yes, my parents will pay for it when I choose their retirement home |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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here we go
__________________
In the interests of full disclosure JRKO = James Rupert Kingsley Osborne. And yes, my parents will pay for it when I choose their retirement home |
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