Speakers for a club

[imix500]

Oops, the JBL driver I mentioned is a 2425, not 2525.

[jackmcdowell]

Ok thanks, but for tweeters other than those I will have to go with selenium, imagine everything imported here costs 3X as much... like a driver for 50U$D would cost me 150$ (a year ago it was 1:1, things havent returned to normal yet!) anyways thanks for the input, I'll look for something in that range.

[imix500]

Jeese, that's rough. Selenuim makes great horns for pro use. Also if they are available there rcf is really good too.

[jackmcdowell]

Well at least other things are really cheap, the problem is imported things... anyways, I bought some used A7 and 816 boxes (a pair of each) and I should be getting them soon, So I'll tell you how things are coming along, Thanks, Jack

[mgoedeke]

The second hand cab route often turns out to be a good move. Just don't forget that clipping your tops puts your tweeters at a very real risk of blowing and replacement diaphragms can end up costing you a fortune, so a limiter is definitely a good move. A Behringer Ultradrive DCX2496 Pro is most likely the cheapest optin which includes both limiter and crossover functionality which allows you to adjust for eq and would allow you to more easily extend the system with a sub should you need to.

And Selenium are a well respected manufacturer, more known over here for their compression drivers and horns, but they seem to have a decent lineup for most Pro-Audio needs.

[Bull]

A few things to say:

And in a 3 way split active system the bass drivers should be 400w-600w rms each, although in some extreme systems they are 700 - 1000 w rms each.

mids 300w -500w rms each

treble 40-100w rms each

And power the drivers with twice the power rms.
Put a passive HPF into the treble boxes to stop turn on/off transiet pops/thumps from blowing the tweeters.
Use the Eminence passive HPF filter as it features a tweeter protection circuit[light bulb and PTC resistor]!