How should this type of driver be mounted?

chris ma · 26th June 2004, 05:22 PM

Hi,

How should this type of driver be mounted? Please see 46k photo

Should the surface of side A(foam) mated with the back side of the baffle or the surface of side B(metal) mated with the front surface of the baffle?
The baffle will be 3/4 inch MDF.

Regards,
Chris

PS. I need to know this before I can measure and cut the hole. The hole size is depend on which way to mount the driver.

I guess there is no difference in sound either way with only 3/4 inch baffle so the driver is either 3/4inch inside the box or outside of the box..

pinkmouse · 26th June 2004, 06:04 PM

It looks like it is designed to be mounted on the rear of the baffle, but if you can put up with the looks, it could go on the front as well.

If rear mounted, you will need to have a removable panel to get access to the driver.

BillFitzmaurice · 27th June 2004, 01:30 AM

Always mount drivers from the front of the baffle or you will get diffraction effects. The entire concept of mounting from the baffle rear is a relic of the dark ages of audio when they simply didn't know any better; the only exception to this rule is for horn-loaded boxes that have to be mounted from the baffle rear and sub-woofers where the wavelengths produced are so long that diffraction is not a factor, though you'll find most sub drivers are designed for front mounting anyway. The best result is with front mounting with the baffle routed out so that the driver frame is flush with the baffle front. Use a gasket or caulking to seal the frame to the baffle airtight.

chris ma · 28th June 2004, 01:46 AM

Dame! I took home 3/4 MDF from Home Depot today

2 @ 22.5" X 46.5"
4 @ 22.5" X 24"
4 @ 24" X 48"

In order to make two H-frames of 24" X 24" X 48"

I think I should have 4 @ 22.5" X 22.5" instead, do you agree?

Regards,
Chris

chris ma · 28th June 2004, 02:00 AM

I took Bill's advise front mount the driver and use my home made circle jig to countersink for the frame but still not quite flush with the baffle because 3/4 inch MDF is not thick enough to leave thick enough material to mount the heavy driver in with confident.

Chris

Paradise_Ice · 28th June 2004, 02:26 AM

You have done a good job of the countersinking,
It does not have to be perfect, just close,
besides some people say when you countersink the surface you weaken the MDF, thats is true,IMO.
That drive unit you have looks like a car audio one?

chris ma · 28th June 2004, 02:42 AM

Thanks,
The drive unit is discontinued Max Performance PE1256/4 12". I think they are for cars mainly. But the spec sheet comes with all response specs for recommendations for
Home use sealed
Home use ported
Car use sealed
Car use ported
Car use Band-pass etc so I took my chances as they were on sale for $90cdn each I took the last four in the shop.

I think I have to go back to Home Depot again to re-cut
the 4 @ 22.5" X 24" to @ 22.5" X 22.5" instead they are meant for top and bottom panels if stand up vertically.

Nuuk · 28th June 2004, 12:44 PM

Chris, an easy way to mount your drivers is the one I used for my Goodmans 201's (on an open baffle). It looks very good and despite what Bill says, works well for me (perhaps because there is only 6 mm thickness in front of the driver) !

It involves using a thinner sheet of MDF glued to the front of your 22 mm MDF. You cut a smaller hole in the thin sheet and another one, the full diameter of the driver in the 22 mm MDF.

Then you can mount your drivers into the resultant rebate from the rear and hold them in position with 'clips' made from scrap timber.

Radius the edges of the smaller hole and you have a very neat finish. I used thin MDF veneered with real oak (used for flooring) and it looks great. Compare the result against seeing the whole driver with it's mounting bolts!

BillFitzmaurice · 28th June 2004, 05:35 PM

Thats actually a very good way of doing things. It was first widely seen in the grille of the Advent speakers of the '70s, works quite well controlling diffraction.

sreten · 28th June 2004, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by chris ma
Dame! I took home 3/4 MDF from Home Depot today

2 @ 22.5" X 46.5"
4 @ 22.5" X 24"
4 @ 24" X 48"

In order to make two H-frames of 24" X 24" X 48"

I think I should have 4 @ 22.5" X 22.5" instead, do you agree?

Regards,
Chris

Quote:

Originally posted by chris ma
I think I have to go back to Home Depot again to re-cut
the 4 @ 22.5" X 24" to @ 22.5" X 22.5" instead they are meant for top and bottom panels if stand up vertically.

No I don't agree, the sizes appear to be correct.

sreten.

26th June 2004, 06:04 PM	#2
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	It looks like it is designed to be mounted on the rear of the baffle, but if you can put up with the looks, it could go on the front as well. If rear mounted, you will need to have a removable panel to get access to the driver. __________________ Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort

28th June 2004, 01:46 AM	#4
chris ma diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pickering, Canada	I think I have made a stupid mistake Dame! I took home 3/4 MDF from Home Depot today 2 @ 22.5" X 46.5" 4 @ 22.5" X 24" 4 @ 24" X 48" In order to make two H-frames of 24" X 24" X 48" I think I should have 4 @ 22.5" X 22.5" instead, do you agree? Regards, Chris

28th June 2004, 12:44 PM	#8
Nuuk diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Somerset, SW England	Chris, an easy way to mount your drivers is the one I used for my Goodmans 201's (on an open baffle). It looks very good and despite what Bill says, works well for me (perhaps because there is only 6 mm thickness in front of the driver) ! It involves using a thinner sheet of MDF glued to the front of your 22 mm MDF. You cut a smaller hole in the thin sheet and another one, the full diameter of the driver in the 22 mm MDF. Then you can mount your drivers into the resultant rebate from the rear and hold them in position with 'clips' made from scrap timber. Radius the edges of the smaller hole and you have a very neat finish. I used thin MDF veneered with real oak (used for flooring) and it looks great. Compare the result against seeing the whole driver with it's mounting bolts! __________________ The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant.

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27th June 2004, 01:30 AM	#3
BillFitzmaurice Banned Join Date: May 2004 Location: New Hampshire	Always mount drivers from the front of the baffle or you will get diffraction effects. The entire concept of mounting from the baffle rear is a relic of the dark ages of audio when they simply didn't know any better; the only exception to this rule is for horn-loaded boxes that have to be mounted from the baffle rear and sub-woofers where the wavelengths produced are so long that diffraction is not a factor, though you'll find most sub drivers are designed for front mounting anyway. The best result is with front mounting with the baffle routed out so that the driver frame is flush with the baffle front. Use a gasket or caulking to seal the frame to the baffle airtight.

28th June 2004, 02:26 AM	#6
Paradise_Ice diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: cosmological consciousness	You have done a good job of the countersinking, It does not have to be perfect, just close, besides some people say when you countersink the surface you weaken the MDF, thats is true,IMO. That drive unit you have looks like a car audio one?

28th June 2004, 02:42 AM	#7
chris ma diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pickering, Canada	Thanks, The drive unit is discontinued Max Performance PE1256/4 12". I think they are for cars mainly. But the spec sheet comes with all response specs for recommendations for Home use sealed Home use ported Car use sealed Car use ported Car use Band-pass etc so I took my chances as they were on sale for $90cdn each I took the last four in the shop. I think I have to go back to Home Depot again to re-cut the 4 @ 22.5" X 24" to @ 22.5" X 22.5" instead they are meant for top and bottom panels if stand up vertically.

28th June 2004, 05:35 PM	#9
BillFitzmaurice Banned Join Date: May 2004 Location: New Hampshire	Thats actually a very good way of doing things. It was first widely seen in the grille of the Advent speakers of the '70s, works quite well controlling diffraction.

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