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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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This sounds like a cool project.
Tang Band 28-847SA 1 1/8 Tweeter A Dayton 5 1/4" 295-330 Have a crossover of about 2Khz, either 3rd or 4th order. Then have two more 295-330's each with there own LM3875 Gainclone (~30 watts each) attached to them, running 100-80Hz and lower, ported. Using about a 1.0 CuFt enclosure, most likely PartsExpress new line of enclosures (that way they actually look professional )According to PE's responses of the two drivers they look good, obviously the tweeter would have to attentuated a little (about 6db). Tweeter would be externally mounted in its own enclosure.
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I enjoy my organic shapes..... |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: East Coast USA
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Just a thought, but why not replace that upper Dayton with something more midrange (and less breakup) like this:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-811 Then move your crossover points to ~300 Hz and ~3,000 Hz (since you're essentially talking about a 3-way design anyway). That way you're taking better advantage of the driver's strong points and they all work less hard - with plenty of overlap left to tweak the xover points (and slopes) before you hit the "nasty" modes? Use 3875's (or 4780's) and active xovers for all of them - AND - if you're going to all of that trouble anyway - make it a sealed box at about half the volume (e.g. 0.5 cu. ft. or slightly less) with some low-end EQ to push the F3 down slightly (perhaps 40 Hz or so?)..... Don't know if this is the kind of input you're looking for or not - just ramblings on my part.... Cheers, Bill |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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http://mfk-projects.com/7_in_test.htm
The aluminum cone - though it is 7", not 5.25" - measures the worst out of all of them. Of course you can still use it. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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I guess that 3" driver is a new one....looks cool though! I have definintly been impressed with the 871's so far, and it looks linear out to 4Khz.
To be honest the Dayton Al is half the price of the next closest model and nearly 10 times less than the highest, so I would imagine it to be the worst! Although a Linkwitz Transform would be nice, I don't know if the drivers have that kind of capability as they only have a 3mm Xmax. But I will admit I don't listen to alot of heavy bass, and might accent them with a dedicated sub eventually. But like you said aiming for a F3 of 40Hz wouldn't really stress them as much.
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I enjoy my organic shapes..... |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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My one comment was going to be try and crossover a little higher if you can. If you have software this would be no problem whasoever. I also second the idea of using the tangband as a dedicated mid driver.
I dont know how good this tang 5" sub woofer is but you get 2mm more xmax http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=264-826 I have not simulated with it either so cannot say much more then that, but it could be an alternative to the dayton if you go three way.
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What the hell are you screamin' for? Every five minutes there's a bomb or somethin'! I'm leavin! bzzzz! Droggon Attack! |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Vancouver
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Looks good.
but why do you have the tweeter seperate? It is sealed right? or is it because it looks cool, which it does.. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: East Coast USA
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Using a Linkwitz Transform is probably a bit much - I was just suggesting that you could tweak the bass EQ to get slightly lower than the stock F3 (peaking high-pass, rotate the "bass" knob, etc.)...
If you want to add a few dollars over what you've proposed (roughly $10 additional) - what about if you jettison the two Dayton Al. drivers completely and replace them with this: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-832 You could still have them forward-firing with an xover at ~300 and your required baffle width wouldn't change much (in fact it would shrink in height since the Daytons are being replaced). So, your "all tangband solution 3-way" would amount to: TB 6.5" Sub TB 3" Midrange TB 1 1/8 Tweeter ...all in a fairly small box with a narrow baffle - and should sound good (if you believe the FR charts)... As for off-axis performance - don't have a clue since those numbers aren't published. Bottom line - looks good on paper - but who knows???.... |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: East Coast USA
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If you really want to push the bass - surf over to the Madisound website and check out the SEAS passive radiators. In a different thread "sreten" suggested using a PR in small enclosures - and it sounds like a good idea - Definitive Tech is doing just this with some compact powered monitors - with apparently good results.
Of course we've now moved completely beyond your original question - so I'll just shut up...
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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Quote:
Probably sealed, maybe take the cup off the tweeter so it has a bigger chamber, kinda like the dayton 1 1/8" mod. Heres a different look on the concept... ![]() I might go with the Tang Band 3" just so I can do a 2500-3000Khz crossover like mentioned. One reason I want to do two drivers for the bass, is so that they can each have their own amplifier, so I can use lower powered (also read cheap
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