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Old 19th June 2004, 02:33 AM   #1
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Unhappy Veneering woes....

I have built a pair of Buschhorn Mk II's and am ready to veneer them. Never done it before, but I have read the bejesus out of everything I could find. I have the really pretty quilted Sapele, all ready to go, with extra to try out first.

Here is my problem.

My veneer is unbacked. I am using the technique where you glue both sides first then let them dry (Tite-Bond II) and when I glue my test piece of veneer, the glue soaks thru to the other (final exterior) side instantly.

I fear this will give me lots of problems when I go to apply stain and finish. I am stuck.

Do I just do it like this, with the soaking through? Is this normal?

Should I just coat the substrate (MDF) and iron on the veneer without glue on it?

Should I consider another method altogether?

Thanks for any help-

GnD
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Old 19th June 2004, 03:19 AM   #2
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It sounds as if you are applying too much glue if you are having the glue seep through the veneer. If the glue seeps through the veneer and is allowed to dry the veneer will not take a stain properly. Usually this technique works very well for us amatuers. I have used it successfully myself. My dad who was a cabinet maker used to use simple yellow glue and a vacuum clamp (a large vacuum bag and vacuum pump). When I first started I thought he would disown me because I used contact cement but he just shook his head and loaned me his vacuum clamp.
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Old 19th June 2004, 04:21 AM   #3
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Do you dilute the glue with water at all? I did, as I had read, and it seemed to seep through some places almost instantly.

I am bummed to have gotten this far and hit such as block.
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Old 19th June 2004, 10:41 AM   #4
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I did not dilute the glue at all. Is it possible you watered it down too much or the instructions you used instructed you to add too much water? I would try it again on a test piece using less water if you can spare a small piece of veneer. Just as an FYI, here is a url for a DIY vacuum press. Best of luck.

http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/welcome.htm

One more FYI. Here is the URL to my woodworking website:

http://www.woodworkersweb.com

You can see our shop by clicking on "Michele and Guy's Woodshop" in the menu. I am the Guy in "Michele and Guy".
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Old 19th June 2004, 11:11 AM   #5
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Here is another url that you should find of interest:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...es/wvt083b.asp

I have a feeling that the problem lies in that you are using Titebond II and not plain old yellow carpenters glue. Titebond II is water resistant glue. Do you really need water resistant glue? Titebond II is not really meant to be thinned. Just another thought.
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Old 19th June 2004, 01:51 PM   #6
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I wouldn't use glue at all. Veneer is traditionally applied with contact cement. Apply to both surfaces. When dry cover the cabinet with wax paper, put the veneer over it, when ready slide the wax paper out and use a roller to press out any bubbles. It sounds like you had the right techinique but wrong material. If you try this with Titebond II the two pieces will not ahdere after the glue has dried.

Don't try this on the cabinet until you've perfected technique on junk wood- it's irreversable.
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Old 19th June 2004, 02:53 PM   #7
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For the inexperienced, I too would suggest using contact cement. Aside from the bleeding, the veneer will curl and bubble as it expands with the water, making the ironing process even more of a battle. Glue on the surface of veneer washes in when using water and causes blushing, but doesn't seem a problem with mineral spirits and contact cement.

Use a roller for a thin, even coat.
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Old 20th June 2004, 12:12 AM   #8
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Bill,

Actually Bill, glue is the preferred method, but maybe not for a beginner. Have a look at the URL's I posted above. Most pro shops (including my pops cabinet shop) use veneer presses and simple yellow glue. You simply get a better bond and it is tons more forgiving. I do however agree with you on the Titebond. I only use Titebond II when the piece will be in a damp environment and Titebond III on outdoor projects otherwise I use plain old yellow glue.
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Old 20th June 2004, 01:05 AM   #9
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I use the Lepage Contact cement for professionals, no scent and dries quickly and uniformly, very nice and easy to use. Works fine for me...for now.
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Old 20th June 2004, 03:03 AM   #10
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Bose(o)

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